FRIZZEN

[LRB]

The cock on a flintlock strikes the frizzen with much more force than what a striker recieves. They are best tempered. 375° is the common temper for 1095 frizzens. A red-orange spark is larger, and lasts longer than white hot sparks, but whatever one decides works best for himself.

 

[44-henry]

If you want a super hard surface such as you describe than make the frizzen from mild steel and pack harden it. If you use a high carbon steel such as 1095 I think you will have a broken frizzen on your hands if you do not draw it back after hardening.

 

[cmdrted]

This may be sacriligeous, esp after all the do it yourself advice but is there a service or builder out there that can do this for you?

 

[chipper]

Wick, do you draw back your strikers?
I hope this isn't asking a too technical question in the realms of copy right infringement.
Thanks in advance.

Regards
Loyd Shindelbower

 

[LRB]

No draw on strikers, but I do draw frizzens. I've never had a striker break, but have had them crack length wise, doing no real harm. I also normalize the strikers before water quenching. I saw a while back that Mike Ameling does also. Most of my strikers are 1095, and I believe Mikes are too.

 

[chipper]

Ahh, thanks. I use water and normalize. I quench on the 3rd heat.
Thanks for everything.

Regards
Loyd Shindelbower

 

[Kevin Bywater]

Has anyone used this method for hardening a frizzen?
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKKhIOx707M[/youtube]

I had an old gunsmith recomend this years ago, wonder if anyone else has tried it.

 

[fyrfyter43]

Must not work too good. I didn't see a single spark when he test-fired the lock. :rotf: