Banjoman
Hillbilly
I bought this gun used several years ago and killed a bunch of squirrels with it before someone on the internet said I couldn’t. 


Call it what you want. But I will not give out anymore information. I am not making a dime sharing what I read or see. So I’ll stop. If you want to learn about the Fusil de Chasse, hunt down the expensive boots.It’s not a matter of truth it’s a matter of elitism
It’s not about function, it’s about it not being what it’s advertised as being. It’s a gun, it’s not an FDC.I bought this gun used several years ago and killed a bunch of squirrels with it before someone on the internet said I couldn’t.
View attachment 391257
Neither is my Centermark. But I’m here to tell you I doubt anyone on this forum owns a TFC. I don’t know if there is any around at all except the originals in museumsIt’s not about function, it’s about it not being what it’s advertised as being. It’s a gun, it’s not an FDC.
Looks beautiful.I bought this gun used several years ago and killed a bunch of squirrels with it before someone on the internet said I couldn’t.
View attachment 391257
The O.P bought it and knows it's not a close replica. If it works and shoots so much the better. I have a trade gun from North Star West that I wouldn't trade off for any reason. The India guns can be problematic with unreliable locks, I've had one or two come into my shop. I am extending an invite to Pipacus to stop by my shop and compare notes if he is in the Tucson area. I would think the Rosewood is a lot like working Mesquite. It takes a certain understanding of the wood to work it without having chunks come off that you wanted to keep in place. Very sharp tools are needed as well as ...Gasp... careful use of rotary tools. Files are also needed, I would stay away from the rasps as you can cause a lot of grief with just a few strokes. This is a great opportunity to take something that may be a generic representation of a Fusil and make it your own. If it's in hand why not make the most of it?
Thank you!Just a quick note here, if you can get a copy of The Gunsmith of Grenville County by Peter Alexander get it. It will help you through the work and a whole lot more.
Call it what you want. But I will not give out anymore information. I am not making a dime sharing what I read or see. So I’ll stop. If you want to learn about the Fusil de Chasse, hunt down the expensive boots.
Clark Badgett, what is your deal? You made your point: it's not a fusil de chasse. I get it. We get it. Do you need that much attention? Are you ten years old?It’s not about function, it’s about it not being what it’s advertised as being. It’s a gun, it’s not an FDC.
Banjoman, do you know if that gun was narrowed down at the lock mounting point? Just wondering if that would affect the lock function. I figure that, if it was narrowed, the bolts connecting the lock and the plate would have been shortened.I bought this gun used several years ago and killed a bunch of squirrels with it before someone on the internet said I couldn’t.
View attachment 391257
What you like is what you like. So it’s up to youI am wondering if blackening the brass would look better.
It’s not a matter of truth it’s a matter of elitism
No one is saying something needs to be so expensive you need to, "mortgage your house for it." Something isn't correct because it isn't correct. Period. The shapes aren't right, the parts aren't right, the materials aren't right, the proportions aren't right, any or all of these things can be the reason a gun isn't historically correct. (I'm not just speaking if this gun in particular, but historically inaccurate guns in general) Some are better or worse than others....
And, there are many expensive guns out there that aren't historically correct. Many of them are very, very, nice guns, but that doesn't mean they are an accurate representation of a gun from a given historical period.
Cost isn't the issue that makes something historically accurate/correct or not, although generally speaking the more historically correct the gun, or knife, is, the more it will cost because of all the extra work that goes into it.
Well, a 4 foot 15/16 dowel
You remove the barrel and tape that in to the barrel channel to let you work the wood near the barrel
Stainless makes a ‘pocket plane’ it’s a rasp on a one hand handle and lets you remove wood and keep the shape
They also sell a half round half flat file rasp combo tool that has round as and wood file on one side flat rasp and file on the other
Then a round file, I like a chain saw sharping file as there is no taper to work near your molding
A 1/4 wood chisel and keep a stone handy as a half a dozen cuts requires a few strokes of the stone
Block and sand paper
Clark Badgett, what is your deal? You made your point: it's not a fusil de chasse. I get it. We get it. Do you need that much attention? Are you ten years old?
I invited you earlier, and more than once, to offer your knowledge to make this a better looking gun. No one is saying this will be passed off as a TFDC, but instead to resemble one a little bit.
Is it that difficult for you to provide helpful information, or do you get some kind or rush by repeating the same asinine BS over and over?
You can't complement someone for turning a somewhat clunky gun into a really good looking one-even if it's not a real TFDC? You have to just knock it?
Damn man, find some meaning in your life outside of correcting people like some bitter community association Karen.
I've tried to be respectful, even with your snooty dismissive initial entry into this thread, and yet you continue.
I'm sure you're a decent person, but in this thread, and others, you are being an elitist snob, to be honest.
So again, I get that you can't seem to handle anything but a museum grade TFDC without getting your britches in a bind, but enough already. You said you wouldn't continue, and here you are again with the same BS. Just above, you say you aren't giving out anymore info, that you will stop, and then proceed to make another post with the same nonsense. Are you serious?
I welcome suggestions and even disagreements, but you are being a rude, obnoxious troll now. It's easy to be a keyboard commando and troll people from behind a computer. Would you do this in person-stick your nose into a conversation and put down someone's gear over and over?
I'm asking you gain, to either please provide some input on how to improve this gun, or take a hike.
I am hoping the moderators are reading this and, to be honest, that they tell you knock it off.
Well I’ve only done one Indian, so bow to your better experienceI wouldn’t use a wood rasp on teak or indian rosewood, the grain cuts are uneven and tend to come off in layers instead.
I’ve worked on many for reinactors, and I can honestly say that most of the Indian gunstocks are over dried meaning the wood was very old to start with, and is possibly from a recycled source such as a barn or dock. I’ve even found them with nails imbedded in them that had broken off.
I am wondering if blackening the brass would look better.
That's an indication that the half cock notch in the tumbler is worn. That is a safety issue that can keep a reenactor off the field if the gun can't hold the half cock while suspended on the trigger. The tumbler is probably too soft to support the half cock function. The half cock notch should be recut and the tumbler properly hardened and tempered.One thing I noted about mine is that if I pull the trigger while in half cock, it will drop the hammer.
---I did this with the frizzen down so the flint hits it.---
Also, it seems to throw a good spark each time.