Getting ready to shoot a matchlock as a newbie

[TobJohn]

I have actual shooting questions, for once.

Can a matchlock be primed with 2f or 3f powder? I had assumed there would not be a problem, but I saw a claim that large grain graphite coated powders can be hard for a match to light.

What is a good length of slow match for just starting out?

Are there any specific tools that a matchlock shooter should bring, that a flintlock shooter wouldn't?

Is a range rod over kill for the under 30 inch smooth bore of an arquebus?

Weird one, but is wearing a baseball/trucker cap a bad idea with a matchlock?

Thanks!

 

[trettie]

Congrats on being able to shoot.

I’ve never had a problem with either 2F or 3F ignition. Don’t over prime.

I usually start with a 3 foot piece. One end of the match should always be in your hand when the other is in the ****. Ignition can knock the match out of the ****, and you don’t want the match falling loose.

You might consider wearing a thin glove (like a fencing glove) on your left hand but that’s optional.

A range rod isn’t overkill especially if you have a wooden scouring stick without a worm for removing a misfire. A CO2 ejector is really nice to have if you have to clear a stuck ball.

Matchlocks can throw a lot of sparks, so wearing non flammable fibers like wool is good. Don’t be surprised if you end up with a few burn holes after shooting.

 

[TobJohn]

Congrats on being able to shoot.

I’ve never had a problem with either 2F or 3F ignition. Don’t over prime.

I usually start with a 3 foot piece. One end of the match should always be in your hand when the other is in the ****. Ignition can knock the match out of the ****, and you don’t want the match falling loose.

You might consider wearing a thin glove (like a fencing glove) on your left hand but that’s optional.

A range rod isn’t overkill especially if you have a wooden scouring stick without a worm for removing a misfire. A CO2 ejector is really nice to have if you have to clear a stuck ball.

Matchlocks can throw a lot of sparks, so wearing non flammable fibers like wool is good. Don’t be surprised if you end up with a few burn holes after shooting.

That is all very helpful, thanks!

I appreciate the heads up on the sparks and clothes. That is not something I would have thought about.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Good info already provided!

Couple added tips: (1) Always blow off stray priming powder off/away from the pan area after priming and closing the pan cover (which is essentially your safety). (2) When freshing the head/tip of the lit match (when it is in the serpentine with the pan cover closed) blow ACROSS the barrel, by keeping the barrel down range, standing perpendicular to the target and holding the arm up in front of you. (Just ‘in case’ there is stray prime anywhere and if you have sparky matchcord … then the embers get blown away from the pan.

But otherwise … wow, I’ve NEVER been sparked from either my tinder snaplock or any of my matchlocks … and the snaplock certainly smashes in with some force. That could be due to the matchcord used, I’m guessing … ???????

Just be AWARE of safe ‘match management’ - always know where it is!

I like to keep the match lit (unless a cease fire is called, then I extinguish it). I take a 3’ long cookout hot dog fork, stIck it into the ground just aside the front of the shooting bench and I affixed an alligator clamp to the top. In between shots, that’s where the match goes. For woodswalk or field, I use the purpose built Grenadiers match case/holder, like the British used.

… I don’t get the hat comment

 

[TobJohn]

… I don’t get the hat comment

I usually wear a hat and wasn’t sure if the match or burning powder would hit the brim, or something similar. The lodgewood arquebus, that is on its way, has the serpentine behind the pan, while the one being built by our resident master of the craft has it in front. I wasn’t sure if the one behind would pose an issue for the hat when aiming down the sights.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

"Weird one, but is wearing a baseball/trucker cap a bad idea with a matchlock?"

A hat on its own might be a bit weird John, but not otherwise! wear whatever you are comfortable with.
I do like fine priming powder for a matchlock, but not for a flint. You will find what works best in time.
as Flint says, you can blow the ash of your match, or just flick it with a finger. it all works the same with good match.

Good luck and looking forward to the results!

 

[Rudyard]

Thats all fine for match clocks I like snuff like priming the glazed can resist some coal .
I was I thought on the Wheellock theme & Pukka seemed unfamiliar with W locks re the' dimple' ect & wedges ?? basically its like a see saw or' teeter totter' as they call it in the US the bit that jambes in the hollow' dimple' it then being spanned a spring or a push rod flicked it up into the ; prop ;or sprag like secondary scear jamming the wheel untill the trigger pushes or nocks open the 'propping' scear I've use simple terms here .& I might be getting crossed wires off topic but I've written it so it will be going to the same reader ship anyway .
Regards Rudyard

PS the useual between shots match holder is an empty pop can tacked or or taped to a post if there is one and try not to make' sparky' match cord

 

[TobJohn]

PS the useual between shots match holder is an empty pop can tacked or or taped to a post if there is one and try not to make' sparky' match cord

That is a good easy solution. The range I contacted seemed very accommodating of me bringing a matchlock and having no experience, so I will see what their preferred solution is.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

John,
For a lot of range work, a holder the same as for a rush light I always thought would be nice!

 

[TobJohn]

John,
For a lot of range work, a holder the same as for a rush light I always thought would be nice!

I had to look up what that is, but it is a very elegant solution!

Do you guys find it easier to have a fairly long length of match, or having a small piece knotted off? The two previously mentioned matchlocks I am getting, as well as the one I am starting to build are all technically tinder locks (correct me if I am wrong, Rudyard), but I am not quite ready to add Mycology to this rapidly sprawling hobby.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

For a tinder lock a short piece for each shot is quite acceptable John.
Until you get into the woods for mushrooms that is!
A heavy length of match can be kept lit, to light your short pieces as required.
pieces 2" or under would make substitute tinder for now.
Nice thing about a rush light holder, is it has no spring, only the lever weight, And is period correct!

 

[TobJohn]

For a tinder lock a short piece for each shot is quite acceptable John.
Until you get into the woods for mushrooms that is!
A heavy length of match can be kept lit, to light your short pieces as required.
pieces 2" or under would make substitute tinder for now.
Nice thing about a rush light holder, is it has no spring, only the lever weight, And is period correct!

When I go on my usual Shenandoah camping trips in the spring with my friends, I can go on a little adventure to find some fungus.

2" it is, thanks!

 

[rickystl]

Another option for match safety/control is the use of a small, metal bucket. You can leave say a 6" piece of still smoldering match cord at the bottom of a dry bucket between shots while at the range. The bucket remains at the bench on the firing line. Our range has loading racks/tables about 8' behind the firing line/benches. So the match cord is always a good distance from the gun while reloading. When you return to the firing line, you just retrieve the still lit match from the bucket, blow off the old ashes into the bucket, and insert into the serpentine. This is especially easy with original Torador muskets. There is no screw fixture on the serpentine. The match cord is just held firm by compression. After firing, just lift the the match corn from the serpentine and drop it in the bucket and reload.
And if you're shooting an original Torador, and are lucky, you might even be able to locate a period-correct bucket. LOL !!!!

Rick

 

[TobJohn]

Another option for match safety/control is the use of a small, metal bucket. You can leave say a 6" piece of still smoldering match cord at the bottom of a dry bucket between shots while at the range. The bucket remains at the bench on the firing line. Our range has loading racks/tables about 8' behind the firing line/benches. So the match cord is always a good distance from the gun while reloading. When you return to the firing line, you just retrieve the still lit match from the bucket, blow off the old ashes into the bucket, and insert into the serpentine. This is especially easy with original Torador muskets. There is no screw fixture on the serpentine. The match cord is just held firm by compression. After firing, just lift the the match corn from the serpentine and drop it in the bucket and reload.
And if you're shooting an original Torador, and are lucky, you might even be able to locate a period-correct bucket. LOL !!!!

RickView attachment 189838View attachment 189839View attachment 189840View attachment 189841

I am not surprised you have the perfect accessories for your esoteric arms.

There was a shootable toradar I had my eye on, but my hobby/muzzleloading budget for the rest of the year has already been allocated.

 

[rickystl]

I am not surprised you have the perfect accessories for your esoteric arms.

There was a shootable toradar I had my eye on, but my hobby/muzzleloading budget for the rest of the year has already been allocated.

It's a addiction with no known cure. LOL

Rick

 

[toot]

Another option for match safety/control is the use of a small, metal bucket. You can leave say a 6" piece of still smoldering match cord at the bottom of a dry bucket between shots while at the range. The bucket remains at the bench on the firing line. Our range has loading racks/tables about 8' behind the firing line/benches. So the match cord is always a good distance from the gun while reloading. When you return to the firing line, you just retrieve the still lit match from the bucket, blow off the old ashes into the bucket, and insert into the serpentine. This is especially easy with original Torador muskets. There is no screw fixture on the serpentine. The match cord is just held firm by compression. After firing, just lift the the match corn from the serpentine and drop it in the bucket and reload.
And if you're shooting an original Torador, and are lucky, you might even be able to locate a period-correct bucket. LOL !!!!

RickView attachment 189838View attachment 189839View attachment 189840View attachment 189841

WOW! now that bucket is the CATS MEOW!! where would one find one of them?

 

[toot]

if you are bit by the bug- you will die with the spike in your arm. you will be a junkie. but that is not a bad thing.

 

[Jay Templin]

Good basic information on our YouTube channel:

When I get back to work on Tuesday, I’ll post photos to show you exactly why a hat is a vital piece of PPE for musketeers!
Jay

 

[TobJohn]

Good basic information on our YouTube channel:

When I get back to work on Tuesday, I’ll post photos to show you exactly why a hat is a vital piece of PPE for musketeers!
Jay

That’s a good one! The range I am going to is actually pretty close to you guys. The James River Black Powder Club.

 

[RAEDWALD]

Rick, is that matchcord in your photograph above strands of hemp wrapped in a spiral of some thread?

Something for my bucket list……………
john