Those are pipe end caps, with an inlet cut to allow the blade fitting.
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I love the information guys. Keep it coming and thank you for sharing it. As for videos. I watched a channel called old iron cabin. That really helped kick me off. I decided to start with attempting a new maple stock for dad’s old New Englander. The factory walnut stock is like new. But, I figure some practice on something like this made more sense than jumping head first into a long rifle. The round barrel got my tool making juices flowing. I took a 1” guide pin from a die set and turned it off sharp on one end. It’s done all the barrel channel. Need to go another 1/8”.
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I practiced inletting on scrap as well before I touched my first gun's stock blank.
I thought the Gunsmith of Grenville County was good until I learned how to make guns, then, not so much.
I thought the Gunsmith of Grenville County was good until I learned how to make guns, then, not so much.
I found it less expensive to pay someone who knew what they where doing and how to execute it, than to keep buggering up beautiful slabs of knurled walnut and flame maple!
A man's gotta know his limitations. That's why I don't work on vehicles.
As long as we get the lead out of the bore!
If you don't try how will you ever know your true abilities ? I'm no expert at building guns. Nor will I ever claim to be. But you will never learn anything if you don't at least try...
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Good luck with that radar thing if yours is like mine your gonna get caught.I will certainly do that. I have to slowly buy what I need over the next few months to stay below the wife's radar.
A stock here and a lock there, you know
So far I have stayed clear of her detection systems . I have needed a few odds and ends things that Chinazon sells. I put them in the "basket" and she orders it. She hasn't said a peep. But, its been a $20 here and $15 there. No big ticket items. Last night I almost got the hook tang/barrel inlet. But, I ran out of concentration and walked away from the bench. Too far along now to make a stupid mistake. I follow the same rule building bows.
. I have needed a few odds and ends things that Chinazon sells. I put them in the "basket" and she orders it. She hasn't said a peep. But, its been a $20 here and $15 there. No big ticket items. Last night I almost got the hook tang/barrel inlet. But, I ran out of concentration and walked away from the bench. Too far along now to make a stupid mistake. I follow the same rule building bows.
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I never liked any of the " How to build a long rifle " type books until after I'd built a couple long guns , and then just as reference ... The best manual is the one written by Pryor Mountain Bill Newton , its about building a N.W. Trade Gun , and Hershel House's 1991 VDO , Building a Kentucky Long Rifle , you can get it at the library ... they are both great for beginners . Yep , just four chisels , 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 , 1" , mallet , shaping tools , ....and a good vice ....that'll get ya started . Just a suggestion ... I love smooth trade guns , they are my thing but ...they are also good starter firearms to build . Bit simpler , straight forward , plainer , no cast off , straight center lines, no cheek piece , etc.etc. and a short one DARN cheaper because of the barrel ... Any who ...build a short smoothbore , they are great for bunnies and such ! , and get some experience ... Then on to a rifle ....just a suggestion . Best of luck to ya ! Oh yeah ...if you want a free copy of Pryor Mountain Bill Newton's building manual just PM with an email and I'll send ya one ....take care
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longcruise
70 Cal.
Looking nice and clean.
Another 1/8-3/16” deeper and clear the main spring and I should have this part done. The plate slips under the drum. I can’t do much with the barrel installed. But I can’t go much farther without it. Interesting hobby so far. Lots of thinking getting done 
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In the end the only thing that matters is the gun is safe to shoot and accurate.
Everything else is window dressing.
Everything else is window dressing.
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Need to drill a ram rod hole and inlet the trigger assembly. So far no errors that stand out or cause safety concerns. I’m guessing I’m around 25 hours into it. Glad I decided to do this first rather than buy all new parts. Excellent practice and introduction. Hooked breech inlets are no fun. Won’t be doing another. I far and away spent more time tuning that in than anything else.
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I would have drilled the ramrod channel LONG before I got to this point.
I’m still waiting on the drill. This stock will have a wide web left and there is no lock plate screw going through. I watched and read for hours and hours. This hobby is exactly like self bows. Take five of the best builders in the US and none of them do things the same. But, the end product is. It’s interesting the similarities. Reminds me of the good ol’ days on the primitive archer forum when the heavy hitters would go back and forth about the “only way” to do things or the only tool that works. I love it.
Is your barrel really out that far? It is supposed to be inletted to half the barrel depth with the side centerline at the top of the inlet.
This is a heavily swamped barrel with a bit of a bell on the front, I could have lowered the wood where it meets the barrel just a little more. If you drop the wood on the side just a little below the centerline you will have a more slender looking rifle.
This wood is on the centerline at mid barrel.
This is a heavily swamped barrel with a bit of a bell on the front, I could have lowered the wood where it meets the barrel just a little more. If you drop the wood on the side just a little below the centerline you will have a more slender looking rifle.
This wood is on the centerline at mid barrel.
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Eric it is deeper than the original stock by .075”. I measured it with dial calipers and a straight edge across the inlet. I measured the thickness of my straight edge and subtracted that from the actual reading.
I’m not too proud to admit my mistakes. So, My barrel sits solidly in the channel width and doesn’t wiggle laterally. But, my top side is too wide by about a 1/16” on both sides. Can I glue a maple dowel in and start over? Or, make some thin laminations and epoxy them in then gently bring them to size? I won’t be disappointed if this is a failure. I’m learning as I go and mistakes happen. Thanks for the advice.
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