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Goofed Inlet fix?

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Some, but not all of that gap will close down when the final finishing oil is applied if you make a point of applying several "extra" layers.

I know, my close fitting inlayed things like a sideplate will never fit after the finishing oil has been applied until I go back in and cut away the buildup.
Then, I usually end up applying 12-15 coats of finishing oil to my stocks.

In the meantime, try giving the wood in that area a really good soaking with water.

That will expand the wood a little bit. Probably not enough to fill the gap but in cases like this, every little bit helps.
 
I have several options:

1) I have a small board of curly sugar maple I've used as a stain test that I could steal a sliver or two from easily.

2) I have a small bag of sawdust from shaping the stock that could be mixed up with "stainable" elmers glue and used

3) I have "stainable" wood filer that I can test and see if it truly is stainable . . I am skeptical of "stainable" claims.

4) I have on order a product called PC Woody recommended on this forum that is a stainable wood epoxy . . .should be here tomorrow.

So, I have been watering it a bit with steam and an iron . . and I will try each of those options with my LMF stain and see what looks best.

I am not discouraged, as I think one of these options will work . . .may not be perfect, and It is my first build, BUT when I had the plate engraved, I forgot that it draws some attention and thus makes the "fix" more "iffy" . . . but It's not a Hershel House rifle, it's just me. . .and though I see ALL it's flaws, I am happy with my first build . .it is special for that reason, even though it is not an excuse for goofs. . . I've learned a lot, and have much much more to go, but I am not disheartened by this. . .I think it will be better when done around the side plate than it is now, no matter what in large part because of this forum and thread.

Thanks for all the suggestions !!!
 
Could be the camera angle, but the plate seems to set out a tiny bit. I would go a little deeper and maybe enough to allow me to block sand the area. It appears to be a little angled out away from the plate especially at the back. If the plate would be positioned a tiny bit higher, at least the gap would be on the bottom, and least noticed. But, I am inclined to agree with Zonie, and think that by the time it is finished, it will be tighter, without doing anything.
 
I might try alcohol, based on you'all's feedback.

I tested 3M wood filler . .stains well, but it is like sand .. terrible adhesion . . . terrible . .

I tested Elmers Wood Glue Max . . it has great adhesion, not sure how it would fill, I didn't waste any of my maple sawdust on it . . to my surprise it did stain pretty well .. took a lot of stain but it blended with the plain wood strip test well. I have not tried to sand it . that's next.

May or may not use any of these, but I'm doing my homework first.
 
If you're like me, you'll spend hours on a fix and get the inlet to be perfect, and then bugger it up someday while removing the plate for cleaning or banging it against something like the bench at the range. :cursing: :haha:
 
That sounds highly likely ... I'm the guy most likely to remove the barrel to do something really minor and obsessive compulsive like filing a scratch that only I see with a dab of stain and a toothpick, only to crack the fore stock in the overhead ceiling fan.
 
All those glues that claim to be stainable can be stained, but it will never match the wood it is next to. I would glue in a sliver of maple (which still won't match completely) and hope that it is close to the wood in the sideplate panel. Others might not see it, but since you know it is there you will always see it. The other option is do what one of the others suggested and make a new sideplate.
 

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