Goofed Inlet fix?

[Swamp Rat]

Guys I goofed my toe plate inlet, ended up with a chip at the top. I made it shorter so If I had a breakout I could just make it longer and redo the inlet. But this is not total failure but needs a fix if y'all suggest an ok way to fix that is. I'll be doing aqua fortis finish on the gun so my question if I do the glue saw dust fix will it stand out like a sore thumb? Also what glue, I normally use tight bond 2 or 3 for wood work but I'm 90% that won't take any stain....
when I do the saw dust glue trick do I stain the saw dust first? Never done it just not sure about it and the problems.

 

[Vaino]

Where is the "top"......a solution would be easier if the "top" location is known. A photo is even better.....Fred

 

[Swamp Rat]

I did not take a picture, it was late last night. Top would be if the gun was leaning against the wall on the flat going to the trigger guard. Mainly needing info on fixing a inletting goof, as I'm sure I'll have another before I'm done.

 

[BrownBear]

Years back I bought an assembled "in the white" rifle, but the builder failed to mention an inletting over-run at one point on the plate. Aaargh....

Too lazy to package and return, negotiate and argue.... Sat and stared at it for a few weeks, then said time's a-wasting. It's a cherry stock, so I went to the hardware store and got some "dark cherry" wood putty, figuring it would be too dark at first, but as the finished stock darkened it might match up. So it turned out.

I know it's there and you can spot it if you look hard, but no one picking up the rifle notices unless I point it out.

 

[Vaino]

Either make a larger or longer toeplate or glue in a piece of like grained wood.

What I've done a few times is cut the closely shaped piece of wood that matches the grain direction and stain the side that will be glued. Same w/ the inlet wall. Apply super glue to both and hold the piece of wood up against the inlet wall for a couple minutes. The super glue dissolves the stain and the joint becomes invisible. File the top surface smooth and re-inlet the toeplate......Fred

 

[frogwalking]

I have done this a time or two. I usually make a longer toe plate. The last time, I saw a small piece (1/8 inch) of German silver lying on the bench, so I soldered it onto the end of the old brass toe plate and dressed up the wood inlet. 'Looks fancy.

 

[Swamp Rat]

I have plenty of metal to move it up, but it' not that bad to have to re-inlet again if I can get it fixed. It's only about 1/8" semicircle.

 

[Chowmif16]

Then move it up, which gives you the opportunity and satisfaction of re-inletting it correctly.
I did the same on my first rifle, and am glad I did.

 

[Crewdawg445]

hotoSmile:

You start getting good when you can hide the boogers!

I've glued a matching piece of wood into different locations on numerous builds. Allowed to dry and once reworked, you'll be the only one who knows it's there. Plus I feel it gives the rifle character. :hatsoff:

 

[Swamp Rat]

Y'all are killing me. I don't like showing my mistakes when half of it was caused by one Item you guys preach about not using. But my chisel would not fit....that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. OK look at the top of the cross and the corner at the bottom of the cross.

 

[galamb]

Not that I have ever done something like this myself

Personally, I would grab a stick of Wood Epoxy - the stick about the size of a roll of quarters that you cut off and knead a chunk - patch the missing pieces there and call it good.

It hides very well when stained/finished and you can get it in "maple" as well as a number of other wood colours.

 

[kaintuck]

Not that I have ever done something like this myself

Personally, I would grab a stick of Wood Epoxy - the stick about the size of a roll of quarters that you cut off and knead a chunk - patch the missing pieces there and call it good.

It hides very well when stained/finished and you can get it in "maple" as well as a number of other wood colours.

Wood welding kit..... :rotf:
Marc n tomtom

 

[Crewdawg445]

Now that's interesting... wood epoxy. :hmm:

 

[MSW]

well, I did the same thing on one of my builds, which started out as a Southern Mountain and acquired a bit of 'bling' along the way ,,, I wasn't happy with the inletting on the toeplate or the trigger guard, so I put an inlay of bloodwood in there and re inletted the offending parts ... it probably disqualifies the gun as an SMR, but it does look pretty cool.

just throwing the idea out there...

 

[S.Kenton]

Now hey that wood epoxy looks interesting.....how does it do for longevity? Where can one purchase this at? Just received a rifle and might need a little touching up with this stuff. I was thinking of using it along a badly inleted barrel channel..... What do you think?
Any other advice on using it would be helpful and greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[mike garner]

i have made my own Wood Epoxy, i use clear Epoxy mixed with sawdust of the stock i am working with. i am no gun builder just a home gunsmith on modern type guns.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I would take that toe plate off and make another that covers the goof ups, leave the Dremel in the drawer and buy a couple of flea market chisels that you can grind down to be any size you need.

I bought a couple Miller Falls flea market chisels for a buck each a few weeks ago.

 

[Black Hand]

I made several chisels from concrete nails. I never worry about not having the shape I need, as I just make what I need.

 

[excess650]

A builder that I know uses acraglass to cover most of his (laziness) goofs. I guess that he either doesn't want to take time and be careful, or just doesn't care, but it surely doesn't beautify his guns.

 

[Obi-Wan Cannoli]

I use acraglas, or wood inlays secured with titebond 2. If you wanted to use acraglas for that area, it would be a good idea to dam the sides to prevent it from running down the side of your stock (modeling clay or cardboard slabs with tape, etc), don't forget the releasing agent on the toe plate. The gel would probably be the better of the two acraglases (green box). For more difficult wood inlays with more complex shapes, I will use a drill bit that is just slightly larger than the mistake to make a shallow perfectly round hole, and then I will chuck a piece of wood of the same type as the stock into a drill, wrap sand paper around it, and slowly make a dowel plug, checking often, until it is a snug fit, titebond 2 to glue the plug in. Make sure the grain direction of the plug matches the grain direction of the stock prior to gluing. If the wood is larger than the chuck size, just cut a rectangular cube small enough to fit snugly into the chuck towards the rear of the scrap piece of wood. Marring this area is not important as it will get cut off and sanded down once the glue dries.....

I am really intrigued as to the longevity of repair regarding the quikwood. Any recommendations or limitations as to its' application from anybody who has used it on a repair that is more than a few years old would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.


*edit: I just reread the post and noticed you are wanting to do an aquafortis finish, I would not use an acraglas repair for a stock destined for aquafortis. I just gave a general what I do to fix mistakes paragraph...Also, what brand of chisels are you using, and how often do you strop them to maintain your edge? That could be a big part of your initial problem...