GPR Kit Coming from Santa

[Smokestick]

I've got it on good authority that this will finally be the year that Santa delivers a GPR .50 caplock kit down my chimney. I've been threatening for years to build one, and now I think it'll happen.

I put together a CVA Plains Pistol a few years back, and it turned out fine, so I feel I'm up to the task.

I'm thinking Pilkington's Gold/Brown stain and clear finish, and LMF Brown on the metal. Any other ideas from you all? I guess my main question is what kind of stain, if any, folks have used on the GPR wood. I'd like a medium brown-type oil finish. The problem I found with Tru Oil was that it was too shiny for my tastes, even when I knocked it back with OOOO wool.

Also, anyone put a patchbox on their GPR? I'm not too sure about my woodworking skills and whether I'd be able to get it to look good, but something about a rust brown plains type patchbox sits well with me. I just need to do something to make it my own, darn it, be it an inlay or two, a patchbox, or whatever. Ideas? Thanks.

 

[Cherokee]

IM waiting on one of their Trade rifles in 50.
I like the look of them without the patch box.
I found the whole gun cheaper than the kit. I do plan on refinishing the stock when I get it. I just cant leave things alone haha :thumbsup:

 

[Shooey]

I finished a GPR last summer. It was fun, just take your time and enjoy the process, don't get rushed. Ask plenty of questions because the folks here know their stuff!

I used LMF brown (great stuff) and LMF "Nut Brown" stain. I used Tru-oil, it's not as shiny as it looks in the picture, but I did rub it with 0000 wool. Like you, I wanted to personalize the gun so I inlayed the star on the cheekpiece. It has my "mark" on it. It was tough inletting all the points, I should have chosen a nice oval maybe. But the star came out better than I thought it would.

Here's a picture of "Ol' Joe" Good luck to you!

-Shooey

 

[Smokestick]

Shooey, nice work! Thanks for the ideas. Looks like that LMF nut brown did the trick that's exactly how I want mine to look.

I'm getting inlay ideas. I like the star. One of my cousins did a kit. He's big into rendezvous and is a knife thrower. He cut a piece of sheet brass into a small bowie knife, and inlayed that into the stock on one side, and a tomahawk on the other. Original and looks good. I'll probably stick with a star, or oval, maybe a small heart in the wrist. Not sure yet. How did the browning turn out? Any problems I ought to try to avoid? Thanks.

 

[Shooey]

The browning was easy. Two tips:

1. Don’t use too much. Just get a cloth damp, not dripping. Smoothly and evenly wipe the metal ONCE. Don’t go back and forth, and don’t touch it again after the first wipe. If you missed a spot, you can get it on the next treatment. I used an old piece of denim to smooth it (card it) after the rust started.

2. Don’t leave the cloth you used to apply the browning solution sitting on your workbench. Anything metal nearby will rust”¦ Don’t ask how I know”¦ I used Tshirt scraps and threw them away after each treatment.

It was a very easy process and I got a nice color, and a nice texture. Just what I was looking for.

I almost went with the weeping heart too, they look nice. Please let me know what you choose!

-Shooey

 

[54JNoll]

Here are my notes on browning metal:

There are generally two ways to brown a barrel. The hot brown method and the cold brown method. Most prefer the cold brown though it takes longer. Each method can be performed a couple ways. Color is controlled by the amount of carding, the method of carding, temp and humidity, and number of applications. Browning solutions can be ordered through Track of the Wolf or Brownells.

Barrel preparation is the same no matter which way you intend to brown. Browning does not work well on highly polished surfaces. Draw filing to remove the milling marks and square up the corners is a must and is all that is really required. This will give a more textured finish. For a smoother brown polish to 320 grit with the paper backed with a hard object to maintain the sharp corners. A finer polish results in a longer browning process and may result in areas not taking the browning. Polish no finer than 320 for browning. Now you need to degrease the barrel. You can use Formula 409 spray cleaner followed by Rubbing Alcohol. Some browning solutions are also degreasers. Just follow the label instructions. Once degreased, handle only with gloves. I use rubber exam gloves but any rubber glove will work. The key is not to transfer oils from your skin back onto the degreased barrel that will result in a spotty finish. All previous rust or bluing should be removed prior to browning.

12 hour cycle Cold Browning: I have had good success using Danglers Brown, Wakegan Bay Brown, and Laurel Mountain Forge Browning solutions. All three must be put on so the barrel is just damp. Any heavier and you will impart a copper color to the barrel due to the copper in the solution. The only fix is to remove the finish and start over. With the barrel prepped and all holes plugged with wooden dowels apply a light coat of solution to the barrel using a clean cotton cloth. You need only dampen the metal. When it comes to applying browning solution “Less is Better”. Now set the barrel aside for 12 hours to rust. Depending on the temperature and relative humidity this first cycle may only result in a dull greenish color. If so, do not card the metal. Simply apply a second light coat of solution and set aside for another 12 hours. Once a light coating of orangish rust appears rub/buff/card it off using 0000 steel wool that has been run through the dishwasher or washed in acetone to remove the oils. Wipe with a cotton cloth and repeat the cycles for three to five days until desired texture and color is achieved. The heavier you card the smoother the texture but the longer the process takes. In the early rusting stages heavy carding will remove all the “finish”, so card lightly at first. As the finish gets darker and heavier you can card more aggressively. A darker color can be achieved earlier by carding with a piece of denim during the first rusting cycles until the rusting gets more aggressive when you will want to switch to steel wool. The 12 hour cycle is convenient because you can do this over the course of a week before and after work/school. The 12 hour cycle is more aggressive since the solution has had more time to work between carding cycles. If you know you will miss a carding cycle do not apply the solution prior. Enough solution will remain after the last carding to allow a slower less aggressive cycle for when you get back to it. Do not let it go more than 24 hours without carding and do not skip a carding cycle often as it will result in a very rough surface. It will not hurt anything to go as much as 14 or 15 hours between a carding cycle should something arise. But again try to limit the frequency of these occurrences. Cold browning is very forgiving.

3 hour cycle Cold Browning: Everything is the same as the 12 hour cycle except you card every three hours. This can give you a nice brown in a day as opposed to 3 to five days. Desired color is often achieved after about 6 to 8 cycles. Again try not to skip carding cycles. Since the solution has less time to work between carding cycles the resultant surface texture will be much smoother. A Humidity/Damp/rusting Box may be required when using this procedure if you are trying to brown during low humidity time of the year. This is typically not a problem in the summer.

Alternately you can use Dixels scratch wheel (order from Brownell’s) attached to a drill to mechanically card. You must have a light touch to use this. Best used after rusting has progressed beyond the initial stage.

Hot browning: Normally used with Birchwood Casey’s Plumb Brown solution. Prep the barrel as before. The directions say to heat a portion of the barrel until water sizzles but does not evaporate. Then apply solution let cool and card. Move to a new area and repeat. You will need to go over the entire barrel several times for this to produce an even color. And then you still may not achieve this. I have found it best to heat the entire barrel at once in a large oven testing on the underside and applying the solution to the entire barrel once hot enough. Card and repeat until desired color is achieved. If the barrel is too hot the solution will burn off leaving a very patchy and spotted finish. This solution does fume when applied. The fumes are toxic so apply in a well ventilated area.

After rusting the barrel you must neutralize the rusting solution or your barrel will continue to rust. I use a strong baking soda and water solution to first rinse off and the wipe down the barrel and other metal parts. Warm to hot water will preserve the color. Boiling water will darken the color considerably. This color change is permanent. Apply oil while the metal is warm. Reapply every day for a week or until rusting stops. Some after rust is normal but if it rusting is heavy or continues longer than a couple days degrease the metal and wash with baking soda and water again and then reapply oil. Bee’s wax can also be applied with the barrel warm to seal the pores of the metal. Carding and oiling following neutralization of the browning solution is very important. Up to know you have been controlling the rusting process. You must continue to do so until the reaction is completely stopped. Laurel Mountain Forge Solution is quite strong and typically requires 2-3 baking soda baths to adequately neutralize the solution.

 

[54JNoll]

Here are my notes on the Damp box I refered to. Since it is winter it might help kit start the process. One builder I know just uses a plastic rifle case with water in the bottom set next to a heat register.

Depending on the time of the year or the humidity in your area it may be advantageous to build a rusting or humidity box to aid in browning barrels. In its simplest for m it is nothing more than a box with a lamp installed. It can be made very complex with thermostats to control temp as well as devices to precisely control humidity also. Fortunate for our purposes we can get by quite nicely with the simple box.

This box requires a couple 1X2 boards, a sheet if paneling or 1/8inch plywood, a dowel rod, lamp kit, and screws. The dimensions are 12 inches wide by 12 inches high by 48 inches long. With this box you can brown all but the longest of custom barrels. Use the 1X2’s to form the framework and screw the bottom and sides to the frame. Some only scrap or even plastic sheeting can be used for the ends (the whole box can also be enclosed with black plastic and simply set in the sun). The last piece forms a lid that can be made to set into the frame with the aide of 1X2’s set to the inside of the frame or you can use a hinge. Install the lamp kit in the left-right center of the box through a side-wall but below the up-down center. You want to be able to get the bulb in and not have it touch the bottom of the box but you also do not want it too close to the barrel. Use a 25-watt light bulb. Install two dowels over and to side of the light. Attach some aluminum foil across the dowels to diffuse the heat from the bulb to allow more even heating in the box. Aluminum cake pans with water or wet rags can be placed in the bottom of the box to either side of the bulb to provide moisture to raise the humidity. To more dowels should be hung just below the lid to support the barrel. Small 2X4 scrap can be affixed to the box or placed on the bottom to hold small parts. Adding either heat or moisture will speed up the rusting process and make the solution more aggressive. Applying both makes it even more so. By controlling which you add you can very the color and texture of the finish. It is also a good way to kick start the process.

 

[Smokestick]

54JNoll, thanks for all the tips, I sure appreciate it. I should be posting some "in progress" pics the week or two after Christmas.