GPR Kit?

[cavscout]

I tried this on a couple of other posts and didn't get a reply. i figured i would try it with is on subject. I have been looking at the Lyman GPR kits. they seem different on different websites. some have blued barrels others have barrels not finished. some have the locks finished while others don't.. my question is can you remove what finish there is on them and finish it the way you want to. on dgw the kit is $30 cheaper than on TOTW, but it has a finished lock. it seems like the really cheap ones have the blued barrel.
This is my first build, so i took the advice on some of the other threads to try one of these first. thanks for any info.

 

Yes, you can remove the finish if you don't like it and finish it however you'd like on any of the metal parts. If you get a blued barrel and you want it brown, you can simply remove the bluing with rust/blue remover, or file it off.

 

[cavscout]

thanks so if i understand, i should go with the cheapest one even though it has some parts finished.

 

Naval Jelly can remove the finish quickly.

Just :m2c:

 

That's what I'd do. Unless you can get them to guarantee the one for $30 more would have like a way better piece of wood or something, they should pretty much be the same.

BTW... What in the heck is that thing in your avatar??? ::

 

[Zonie]

If you don't like the blueing there are dozens of ways to remove it ranging from buying some Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover, to Naval Jelly, to Sanding, to filing.

I may be wrong, but I'm guessing if the kits barrel is not blued, you may have to draw file or sand it to remove the tooling marks on the barrel.
If it was blued by the factory, the surfaces should be very smooth and ready for whatever final finish you want to put on it.

The Color Case hardening on the lock can be removed using the same methods mentioned above.

 

[cavscout]

thanks for the info, i got one from d&r that was on one of the other posts. i dont' know if it is really blued but that is what the description said. i'll need something to do when the winter hits soon up here at ft drum. hopefully i'll try one of the nicer kits next time. after reading all the posts for the past year, i figured i had better start with a simple one first. the picture is of a dancing hampster,lol.

 

[jim gray]

When they say finished lock, are they referring to it being case hardened as opposed to plain metal, or are they talking about an assembled lock as opposed to a lock plate and a handful of spings and screws and such?

 

[leslie]

Try Midsouth Shooters Supply for best price or the under-counter catalog at Walmart.The Lyman kits will all make the same rifle you will have to work on it some to get it the way you want it.

 

[daveol]

I saw your post on two different threads, and although based on your post and subsequent replies I am not quite certain but I'll give it a try.

I built a Flint GPR in .54. The cheapest that I found was Mid South. Mid-South Link

I have been looking at the Lyman GPR kits. they seem different on different websites. some have blued barrels others have barrels not finished.

The pictures shown online at most vendor

 

[WV_Hillbilly]

Naval Jelly can remove the finish quickly.

Just :m2c:

I know that Naval Jelly contains phosphoric acid. Both it and muriatic (hydrochloric) acid are very potent and can attack the metal itself--something called hydrogen embrittlement if I remember correctly. That can weaken and stress the metal or start it cracking even. I'd hate to see a ruined gun, especially a really nice one.

You need to be careful to make sure to get your choice of "acid" off as quickly as possible after the "old blueing breaks loose it's hold". The acid has got to be completely neutralized also.

Here is a link to some good information:

http://www.amol.org.au/recollections/2/5/14.htm

Ther are SO MANY different things that can be done to colour/protect iron and steel. It boggles the mind, but mostly they are some form of oxidation (rust).

actually was fixing a few minor touch up spots today,
WV_Hillbilly