GPR problems

[tecum-tha]

Another way would be to file some material off the lower part of your barrel underlug,because this forces the wedge into that high position. Start with the barrel wedges though like I desribed earlier. The barrel wedges are so strong, there is no problem when a little material is removed. On your jaeger kit, the whole barrel is fitted with 3 pins of 3/32" and in other kits 3 pins of 1/16".
Now get to work and in 15 min the problem is history. :thumbsup:

 

[Moloch]

I dont know, a LOT of material must be removed this way. And I am still wondering about the space between the stock and the barrel, the barrel can be squeezed like a spring in and out and moves about .40 at the nose cap. Is the barrel supposed to be ''squeezed'' into the channel like that?

 

[MagKarl]

Another option would be to gently and carefully bow the barrel lugs away from the barrel. I have a GPR kit gun and bending them to tighten or loosen the key fit was part of the instructions if I remember correctly. Carefully drive a wedge into the gap and you can improve the fit. A little bit goes a long way. Other than that, do as suggested and open the escutcheon slots a bit with a small flat file.

 

[tecum-tha]

What is a LOT?
Ok, take a digital caliber and get me the measurements of the underlug`s lower rib thickness and the barrel wedge thickness in mm. Then we can see where to remove what.
I have a Dikar Hawken here with the same system, where it fits.
My wedge is 3.18mm thick and my underlug 1.91mm thick.
Get me your measurements and we will see.

 

[tecum-tha]

0.40 between barrel and stock, that`s almost 1/2". I guess you mean 0.040" which is a little more than 1 mm. Still a lot.
If you really have the hook of the barrel right in the tang, it should lay flat without this big gaps. :nono:

 

[Moloch]

Tecuma-tha

The barrel pins dont fit with the tang REMOVED. Needless to say that it also does not fit with the tang installed. Dont know were you got .040?

The barrel without the pins can be pushed into the stock in and out like a spring, traveling about 0.40 (1cm). I was wondering if that should be that way. The pins dont fit by ~ 3/4 millimeter, the first barrel pin is far more off than the scond one.

The barrel underlug is exactely 1mm/0.04'' thick.

There you go:

Thats WITHOUT the tang installed. YOu can clearly see the escutcheons were the wedges are resting on through the wedge plates on the barrel.

As I can see you are from germany, dont hestitate to start a private topic with me.:v
Sometimes its a bit hard to describe problems in a foreign language.

 

[Mulebrain]

I see your in Austria, and with the Investarm factory being in Italy!!

How about driving to the factory with your problem?

That way you can get her fixed up proper, and we just might get a factory tour!

They are in northern Italy close to Brescia, in Marcheno!

I have driven through there before, and with great food to boot!

I smell road trip :thumbsup:

http://www.investarm.com/eng-contatti.html


Or another way, is to have the factory send you another stock!

Myself, would have to do the road trip :thumbsup: Next time I go to Italy, this would be a great fun!

 

[BV]

My GPR does the same thing. I squeeze the barrel and stock together with my hand and tap the wedge in with a hammer. It seems to work fine.

 

[Moloch]

I DID PREVAIL! :grin: :bow:

It was time to do something about my GPR, I went to the hardware store and got me a small file for metal work.
It was actually a time consuming task, 5 minutes of removing material from the top of the right barrel wedge entry plate (or however you want to call it),hooking in the barrel, checking out how much material has to be removed, getting the barrel off, removing material..... :snore:

The entry hole for the barrel wegde pin was originally 0.11'' high, I had to open it up to 0.14''.

I also had to make the front edge of the pins smoother with the file so they can be easier fitted.
I had to be careful not to remove too much material but I got it right, now both pins must be tapped in and out with a 3 blows with a wooden hammer. I think its a bit tighter than it should be but I like that.

Overall it took me one and a half hour, the steel was TOUGH! :shocked2:

I am happy. :thumbsup:

 

[tecum-tha]

I am currently working it out with Moloch in a private topic. We did erase the underlugs so far as the problem. We will run a few more fitting tests and then will see.
I would run this little test: remove the tang of your rifle and put a small piece of Kleenex(use only one layer) between the rear side of the tang and the wood Mark your hook with some marker and put it back together. I guess you will see a mark on the paper or it is scratched up. A little filing off some material on the back of the hook should take care of that.
Let me know...

 

[Capt. Fred]

Good news. Let us know how it shoots.

 

[rootsy]

I had a very similar problem while assembling my GPR kit. A word of caution on the barrel underlugs. Be very very gentle if you are going to try to bow them to make the wedge pins fit. They are resistance welded to the barrel and the welds can be weak. I ended up breaking out the TIG on one of mine after it popped off of the barrel on one end.

Never hammer on the pin to drive it through the offside escrution. If the wedge is butted against it you will just bow the escrution outward and possibly break or pull the small screws holding it in place.

I learned both of these lessons the hard way...

 

[Moloch]

Ah they are not that hard to get in, I just need three taps with my wooden bullet starter (the kind with the wooden round handle . I just checked if the screws of the escrution are loose, they are tight. The escrutions are slightly bent but thats from my earlier attempts to get the wedge pins through both sides.
No problem, I'll order replacements and as long the screws hold tight.....

 

[BrownBear]

Ah they are not that hard to get in, I just need three taps with my wooden bullet starter (the kind with the wooden round handle . I just checked if the screws of the escrution are loose, they are tight. The escrutions are slightly bent but thats from my earlier attempts to get the wedge pins through both sides.
No problem, I'll order replacements and as long the screws hold tight.....

I did two things. I put a slight taper on the end of the pin, then a matching taper on the inside of the escution so it would be invisible. Polished smooth, there's no tapping required.

 

[Zonie]

Moloch
You may want to use your file a bit more to loosen the wedge fit.

You should not have to tap the wedges in, just a good hard push of the hand using a wood block to concentrate the force on the end of the wedge should do it.

 

[cowpoke1955]

If you remove those little screws, be VERY careful and go slow. They are very weak and the heads often breaks off. I broke a few while building my .54 GPR flint kit. Fortunately, Lyman put a few extra screws in the kit. You did a great job :thumbsup: .

 

[Moloch]

You may want to use your file a bit more to loosen the wedge fit.

I am not too sure if this is a good idea, I have removed a lot of material at the top of the wedge pins entry plates at the right side - the pins are only tight if they also go through the left side, if they only stick through the right side and the underlugs they are very loose. I think removing more material would loosen the pins too much. But it does not matter because I wont remove the barrel for cleaning or anything else.

They are tight I will never touch them again. :nono: :wink:

I'll handle the pins like rifles with barrels which are held in place with the small pins, like on the bess or the german jaegers. They never get removed because they loosen pretty fast.

If you remove those little screws, be VERY careful and go slow. They are very weak and the heads often breaks off.

Thanks, I will keep that in mind. I always order replacement parts like screws and barrel band springs for all my rifles, just in case. They are cheap, and the worst thing at the range is if something breaks and you cannot repair it. Thats a lesson I've learned the hard way.

You did a great job

Thanks! :v

 

[paulvallandigham]

From what you have last written, it seems that the problem would be solved by removing a little bit of metal from the NOSE of the keys-just put a slight bevel on each key, on the top--- to make it easier for the keys to enter the escutcheon plate on the left side of the stock. At very least, knock off that top edge on the keys using a fine jeweler's file, or emery cloth, or India stone.

If you see burrs on the slot on the left side escutcheons, remove the burrs. That may be the entire source of your problems. Again, a fine, flat sided jeweler's file is all that is needed to do this kind of fine work.

 

[freeonthree]

you will find it a lot easyer to kleen the barrel if you remove it.Stick the breech end in a bucket of soapy water and run your kleening patch in and out a few times pulling the hot soapy water into the barrel.A whole lot easyer than leaving the stock on.

Tom