Gun Stock Wax?

[PathfinderNC]

My Pecatonica Fusil de Chasse is almost finished- I applied a third and probably last light coat of wipe-on varnish this afternoon. I am very happy with the soft satin finish it has.
I was wondering if using a paste wax over it for additional protection would be worthwhile or not. I haven't done that before and am curious if folks here have thoughts pro or con about wax on a stock. (On this gunstock there is no carving to have wax build-up in any crevices). I have both Renaissance Wax and also J&J Paste Wax.
Thanks,
Bob

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Personally I've never liked wax on a stock. It makes it slippery to handle and it has to be stripped off to touch up the finish. 4 or 5 coats of poly wiped on the then wiped off before it sets up gives a good looking and long lasting finish. I usually apply linseed first and let it cure for a few weeks before the poly.

 

[PathfinderNC]

Personally I've never liked wax on a stock. It makes it slippery to handle and it has to be stripped off to touch up the finish. 4 or 5 coats of poly wiped on the then wiped off before it sets up gives a good looking and long lasting finish. I usually apply linseed first and let it cure for a few weeks before the poly.

Thats the route I have usually gone before (BLO and then Wipe-on Poly).
On this one I skipped the BLO because the stock is already a nice dark color.
Curious about the wax- the thing is once it's on, theres no way back,

 

[Flintlock]

I've been using paste wax for years, don't apply till your finish is completely dry, maybe even for months just in case. I rub my guns down often with Johnsons paste wax especially where any wood and metal meet. I just want to seal them against moisture as much as possible do to rain, snow and humidity. The English have been using wax on their fine guns for centuries and they know fine guns.

 

[Dale Lilly]

[/QUOTE]

My Pecatonica Fusil de Chasse is almost finished- I applied a third and probably last light coat of wipe-on varnish this afternoon. I am very happy with the soft satin finish it has.
I was wondering if using a paste wax over it for additional protection would be worthwhile or not. I haven't done that before and am curious if folks here have thoughts pro or con about wax on a stock. (On this gunstock there is no carving to have wax build-up in any crevices). I have both Renaissance Wax and also J&J Paste Wax.
Thanks,
Bob

Hi Pathfinder. I use Birchwood Casey 'Gun Stock Wax' which protects but does not make the stock slippery. My 2 cents worth. Polecat

 

[BS]

I made a Satin stock that was a little flat looking. I used Watco Satin Wax over it. The light shine made the finish "pop". [Natural] color.

 

[deertraks]

Renaissance Wax

 

[dave_person]

Hi Bob,
Renaissance wax is a good choice because it is used so sparingly and is useful on both the metal and wood. A good furniture paste wax is also fine. If you have to repair the finish for some reason, just wipe the stock with mineral spirits before doing the repair and that will remove the wax. Let me share a little trick if you use wax. Put a little wax in the lid of a jar and mix it with a little brown stain. Then apply it to the stock and buff off as you would with any wax. The brown stain will hide any wax residue that you fail to buff off such as that which fills any little crevices or gaps. When the wax residue dries it won't be white as is the case with most waxes, and will disappear against the stock.

dave

 

[PathfinderNC]

Hi Bob,
Renaissance wax is a good choice because it is used so sparingly and is useful on both the metal and wood. A good furniture paste wax is also fine. If you have to repair the finish for some reason, just wipe the stock with mineral spirits before doing the repair and that will remove the wax. Let me share a little trick if you use wax. Put a little wax in the lid of a jar and mix it with a little brown stain. Then apply it to the stock and buff off as you would with any wax. The brown stain will hide any wax residue that you fail to buff off such as that which fills any little crevices or gaps. When the wax residue dries it won't be white as is the case with most waxes, and will disappear against the stock.

dave

Thank you Dave! I like that tip of adding brown stain to the paste wax, but not sure what type of stain you would use. My stocks are stained with a powdered dye (Kato) I mix with water. I am guessing I would use an oil-based stain to mix with the paste wax?
Your suggestion brought back a memory from many years ago of one of my Fine Art classes. The instructor (a Prix de Rome award winner) told me to mix a bit of pigment to the first layer of finishing varnish over a completed painting, then a few subsequent untinted applications of varnish. Should a restorer later on be removing the varnish, he would know at what point the finishing varnish would be fully removed and the oil painting exposed.
Funny how these memories come back…

 

[Rod Man]

Renaissance

RM

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

I have the Renaissance Wax, but it is expen$ive (now $26 for 2.5 ounces) so I only use it on collectibles that never leave the house.

For arms I use, of all types with wood stocks, I much prefer 'Tom's 1/3rd Mix', which is used extensively by milsurp collectors and highpower shooters. Only $12 shipped for a larger 4-ounce tub. And yes I use it colored [insert thumbs up! icon]. I also find in hunting use that it protects better then Renaissance does.

Link = Products Page - The Gunstock Doctor Supply Company

 

[PathfinderNC]

I have the Renaissance Wax, but it is expen$ive (now $26 for 2.5 ounces) so I only use it on collectibles that never leave the house.

For arms I use, of all types with wood stocks, I much prefer 'Tom's 1/3rd Mix', which is used extensively by milsurp collectors and highpower shooters. Only $12 shipped for a larger 4-ounce tub. And yes I use it colored [insert thumbs up! icon]. I also find in hunting use that it protects better then Renaissance does.

Link = Products Page - The Gunstock Doctor Supply Company

Thanks for that lead!

 

[FishDFly]

Briwax Original makes waxes with different stains already mixed in, It works well and hides scratches.

 

[duca]

Hey Path, I’ve used Renaissance Wax and like it, As stated above I’ll wait to finish is at least six months old before using it. I’ve been using this and like it. Very user-friendly and all natural.

 

[Robby]

Hi Bob,
Renaissance wax is a good choice because it is used so sparingly and is useful on both the metal and wood. A good furniture paste wax is also fine. If you have to repair the finish for some reason, just wipe the stock with mineral spirits before doing the repair and that will remove the wax. Let me share a little trick if you use wax. Put a little wax in the lid of a jar and mix it with a little brown stain. Then apply it to the stock and buff off as you would with any wax. The brown stain will hide any wax residue that you fail to buff off such as that which fills any little crevices or gaps. When the wax residue dries it won't be white as is the case with most waxes, and will disappear against the stock.

dave

Thank you Dave, I like the Renaissance wax but even using a product dedicated toothbrush in the tight spots to minimize build up I would get a white residue in the crannies. Your stain idea should do the trick.
Robby

 

[FishDFly]

Cotton swabs work well.

 

[springfield art]

Many good tips in the above thread. Thanks.

 

[1BadDart]

I use J&J paste wax over satin wipe on poly on my rimfire stocks.

 

[dave_person]

Hi Robby,
You are welcome. Peter Mazur told me that trick. He is one of the best, barrel and hardware restorers and refinishers in the world. FishDFly mentioned Briwax, which comes in different colors and works as well. I just like Renaissance wax so I color it.

dave

 

[PathfinderNC]

Hey Path, I’ve used Renaissance Wax and like it, As stated above I’ll wait to finish is at least six months old before using it. I’ve been using this and like it. Very user-friendly and all natural.View attachment 124224

Thanks- I have read to wait about that long before waxing the stock, so it gives me lots of time to consider what to use. I have Renaissance Wax that I use on instruments, but it seems theres other good options out there. I appreciate your suggestion!