• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Hammer Won't Fall

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rancher

40 Cal.
Joined
Jan 2, 2007
Messages
239
Reaction score
0
I was looking at a older (maybe 1970's) T/C Hawkin flintlock, but when you pull the trigger the hammer won't fall. The flint doesn't strike the frizzen, it just goes to halfcock. This happens both when you use the set trigger first and when just the front trigger is pulled. I tried maybe 25 times and the hammer did indeed fall properly maybe 3 times or so. Thanks.
 
Just send the Lock into T/C Arms. They have a lifetime guarantee. I just sent one in and they refurbished it and it works great.
 
Try removing the lock and checking all the internal screws for tight. Just a bit of loose in those TC locks will do that. If that's not it, check with TC. If it won't fall without the set trigger then it's probably not the fly.
 
Ft. Jefferson said:
Probably missing the fly in the lock, or it's just plain worn out. Not to fear, it's easily replaceable.

If it has been dropped into 1/2 cock this many times it needs the tumbler and sear as well to be safe again. I am surprised one or both have not broken.
Doing this is the worst kind of abuse of a lock.

Dan
 
Dan Phariss said:
If it has been dropped into 1/2 cock this many times it needs the tumbler and sear as well to be safe again. I am surprised one or both have not broken.
Doing this is the worst kind of abuse of a lock.

Dan

Should I try and get the parts or send it in to T/C?
 
T.C repairs them at no cost. Getting parts will cost. What is the question? :hmm: :hmm: But before sending it back have you checked to see if the lock functions properly outside the rifle? If it does there may be a piece of wood binding, or the lock retaing screw is way to tight.! :hmm:
 
I'll go check it out tomorrow and take the lock off and see what I come up with. If I send it in to T/C will I get my original lock back and about how long would it take?
 
rancher said:
I'll go check it out tomorrow and take the lock off and see what I come up with. If I send it in to T/C will I get my original lock back and about how long would it take?

Thompson Center will not replace, for free, any lock that has been tampered with or miss-used. Technically they only warranty the "original" owner but I have found them to bend over backwards to please people. If it is a early model rifle it is probably the old style lock and a new style is a much better lock.
TC is in the middle of moving it's operation and maybe slow to respond. I fear the days of them making any sidelock may be numbered.
 
It hasn't been tampered with or misused and the original owner still has it. I'm pretty sure it is the older style lock on it. Wish I could get it working again by Christmas.
 
Try screwing out the ajustment screw between the set triggers if it is in to far it will do just what your talking about see if that helps
 
ord sgt said:
Trouble could even be that the lock screws are too tight , causing parts to rub on the wood under the lock.

Agreed :thumbsup: Cock catching on half cock, 9 times out of 10 overtight lock screws bending the plate.
 
The first thing that I'd do is remove the lock and completely degrease and re-oil it. Your problem is almost certainly caused by the fly not blocking the half-cock notch in the tumbler when the sear is tripped. De-gunking - especially since it's an older lock - could be just the ticket to deal with this problem.

I anm a firm believer in trying the simple solutions first. This is where I'd start. Good luck.
 
Had a similar problem with a percussion Renegade. Found a couple of screws loose. Put some blue Lock-Tite on the threads and tightened them down. No further issues with the lock.
 
This is an OLD thread from 2010
Yup... and most of the advice was on the order of "send it back to T/C and they will fix it under warranty". We all know how that would end. Only wish I knew what the thingamajig that the screws held down is actually called. Also, discovered that T/C locks are often similar, but not identical, so swapping out a Hawken lock for a Renegade lock might not actually work as well as one might think. T/C apparently used HotGlue to add material to fit the tang into their guns. I found that mildly disappointing... though I guess it worked OK.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top