Has anyone tried to make Wedge keys for barrels?

[Forrest Smith]

I acquired a Lyman Great Plains rifle that did not have it's original Wedge keys for the barrel. I have bought some softer steel and though I could heat up the end of it to hammer a round end on it. As anyone done that, or have a better idea, then to beat the heck on the end to make a "stop" so the key would not go in further into the stock?

 

[Bearkiller]

You can try this link and buy new wedges https://muzzle-loaders.com/products...Gemmer Hawken Barrel Wedge or Barrel Key also

 

[Phil Coffins]

Or just what you needed.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/964/3/key-lyman-gpr-r

 

[Phil Coffins]

I acquired a Lyman Great Plains rifle that did not have its original Wedge keys for the barrel. I have bought some softer steel and thought I could heat up the end of it to hammer a round end on it. As anyone done that, or have a better idea, then to beat the heck on the end to make a "stop" so the key would not go in further into the stock?

And yes, forge a key like you asked can work.

 

[Forrest Smith]

BearKiller, You are going to take all the "fun" out of pounding that hammer on steel and grinning it down! lol Thank you!

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

$12 for the wedge key, then another $8 for shipping. Now you have $20 wrapped up in a chunk of brass or steel that's smaller than your pinky!!!

 

[hawkenhunter50]

It should be able to be done. I've forged triggers using mild steel by clamping in a vise and start peening the edge with a ball peen hammer. Use the vise jaws to get the flat edge. I've done triggers both cold forging and heating the metal and both worked fine. Then use a file to do your clean up.

 

[nkbj]

I acquired a Lyman Great Plains rifle that did not have it's original Wedge keys for the barrel. I have bought some softer steel and though I could heat up the end of it to hammer a round end on it. As anyone done that, or have a better idea, then to beat the heck on the end to make a "stop" so the key would not go in further into the stock?

Once you have something that will fall into the slot then the next step is to bend it to make it push the right way, to hold the barrel down as you want. If done just right then the wedge will kinda snap into place and hold there rather than wanting to come back out.
I used a WW2 era rail road spike to put that kink in the right spot, so it goes over the hump and then resists falling out on the ground in the middle of nowhere.