Hello

[mickman15]

I am a newbie to BlackPowder, I am putting together a Kentucky Rifle Kit made by Traditions. I have a few questions. The Tenon pins need to stay intact right? not filed flush with stock like the pamphlet says? I guess thats it for now, thanks.

 

[MikeChapin]

The tenon pins are filed flush to the stock. You don't want them sticking out on the side of the rifle. When the rifle is finished, those pins will not be removed unless the rifle needs repair or refinishing.

 

[mickman15]

I guess I dont get it. Im seeing the pins running down the length of the stock and holding the brass "splicer" and both parts of the stock together, the main issue Im having is terminology, sorry I will look again and see if I get it.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I wish I knew what you are calling a brass " Splicer"? Would this be the escutcheon plates that are put on the stock through which barrel keys, or pins are run? That is the only thing that often is made of "brass" ( nickle/silver, steel, etc. are also common, depending on the rest of the furniture use on the gunstock) around the barrel pins.

Many gun stocks do not provide for escutcheon plates, and the pins simply appear as metal filled " holes " in the forestock. They should be filed flush with the wood. If an escutcheon plate is used, then file the pins flush with the escutcheon plate.

If Keys are used, one end of the Key always has an expanded "head" to it, while the forward edge is a slightly rounded, rectangular-shaped piece of metal sticking through the slot in the opposite escutcheon plate. The "head " allows the shooter to grab the "key" and pull it out in order to free the barrel from the stock.

 

[bingo1952]

The Traditions kit has a two-piece stock. I think the joiner plate is what he is refering to. The plate itself may be slightly over size and will be need to be filed to fit the stock contour. the two roll pins should be equi-distant in the plate.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Thanks, Runnball. That is a new word on me. I would never have guessed the spacer is what he was talking about. :surrender: :thumbsup:

 

[mickman15]

Sorry, Im a cable guy lol

 

[davy]

Ima thinkin this is what he's talking about guys! :thumbsup:

Davy

 

[mickman15]

10-4 thats right, to explain my misunderstanding, I view the two stocks (Barrel and trigger ) I see the two tenon pins keeping the stock together, but I am going to drill holes in the barrel stock tap the pins through the joining plate and into the barrel stock and grind those same pins down flush so the joining plate has nothing to hang on and the trigger stock has nothing going into it from the barrel stock which makes me think I would end up with a piece of wood with two metal pieces stuck in it for no apparent reason :surrender:

 

[MikeChapin]

Ahah! Your terminology was screwing me up. Tenon pins are the ones that hold the stock to the barrel.

The two large pins that join the stock together are kept whole. They reenforce the area where the two stock pieces are joined. The only thing you have to worry about there is that the wood is flat against the brass spacer. It usually takes little or no sanding on these kits to do that.

 

[Trot]

I think the pins that the instructions say to file flush are the ones that go crosswise throough the stock to hold the barrel on. The ones that join the two pieces of stock together definitely want to be left full length.

 

[paulvallandigham]

With out the pins joining the two plate, you have NO way to keep the front portion of the forestock from turning around the barrel, or pulling away from the joint of the two plates. Not Good. The pins there are intended to help hold the two-piece stock together. Follow the directions.

The one thing I see poorly done with these stocks is that the kit builders fail to taper the forestock from the entry pipe to the muzzle cap, on both the TOP and bottom of the stock. You end up with a very square, clunky looking, and feeling forestock, with a ramrod hole that is way too deep, and a boring straight line the full length of the top of the stock from breech to muzzle. At the breech, the top line of the stock at the barrel mortise should cover about 2/3 of the bottom of the side flat. But, at the muzzle, that stock should cover 1/4-1/3 of the side flat from the bottom. The stock should look like its merely there to offer guidance to the barrel, rather than support!

The stock's only real purpose is to allow a place to hang the ramrod, and to protect the barrel from dents, dings, and being bent in any fall. Let the wood forestock take the damage, as it can be easier replaced.

The STOCK- neither part-- is supporting the barrel. Instead, on MLers, the forestock HANGS off the barrel. The thinner the forestock is towards the muzzle, the better the balance, and the less weight the barrel has to carry.

 

[mickman15]

FINALLY, I get it! Thank you for being patient The section where the instructions talk about filing down pins, they happen to have a picture of the joining plate with pins, man that COULD have been a disaster! THANKS!