HELP!!! Floppy Trigger

[Smokey Plainsman]

Hey

I’ve got a new Crockett pistol and the trigger flops are over the place. Even when at full cock, there a BUNCH of lateral play and forward and back.

Any tricks to snug this up? Maybe how to add some type of trigger return spring of some form? It doesn’t seem to affect shootability too much but is just annoying for sure.

Thanks gang!!

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

You could put a trigger return spring in it, but it's a inexpensive factory gun after all, you sort of get what you pay for.

 

[Rifleman1776]

A pic of the inside of the lock might bring suggestions. But, what Comfortable said is really spot on.

 

[ronaldrothb49]

As comfortably numb said maybe a return spring or you could install a small screw on the plate to act as a stop or maybe solder a piece onto the trigger. The thing I would look at first is how far does the sear travel when you cock it? On some cheaper locks the sear moves quite a lot.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Like you, I too hate rattly triggers.

The side to side stuff is caused by the hole in the trigger being bigger than the pin by just a little bit. That is, there are no "shoulders" on the blade to help keep it straight.

One way to correct this is to get a bigger pin. The way I dealt with it in a Davis double action single set trigger [(1/16" pin diameter (0.625")] was to get a wire bit drill slightly bigger and drill out the existing hole in the trigger and replace the pin with a pin of that size. In my case I used a #52 bit / 0.635" and just broke off the drill bit shank to use the (non-machined part of the) bit itself as the new pin. That cured the side to side part.

I couldn't find a 1.6mm bit (0.630") to use for the same thing which would have been my preference, but the #52 seems to work fine. (Obviously you have to drill out the other places the pin goes through too.)

Yeah, I wasted a perfectly good drill bit in doing it, but it was only a couple of bucks, and the hunt to find 0.635" diameter wire would have been a long one.

Plan B would be to fill in the hole in the trigger and re-drill it for the existing pin size.

Plan C would be to get a bigger pin and slowly reduce the diameter of the pin until it just barely fits the existing hole and produces no wobble. That's the route I went on a simple hinged trigger in an earlier build.

Your fore and aft part can be dealt with by;
A.) getting a weak return spring and installing it as mentioned above,
B.) adding material to the existing trigger blade to take up the gap
C.). bending the sear bar arm down to take up the slack

Good luck what ever you decide to do. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Thanks gang. The lock has the little set screw that adjusts the depth the sear rides in the tumbler. I adjust it to wear the sear is fully engaged in the bitch but still gives a light pull. It’s very nice.

The issue is there’s a ton of slop in the trigger itself before it even touches the sear bar in the lock.

 

[deerstalkert]

got pictures? would help.
one way to reduce the lateral slop of the trigger is to inlet it deeper, thereby decreasing the distance between the trigger blade and the sear arm.
have never had much luck with trying to bend the sear arm down to meet the blade. if you are handy with a welder you can add to the top of the blade but that is more work than inletting deeper.

 

[64Springer]

I'll say it as politely as I can.

If the OP can't figure this out on his own or doesn't understand the interplay between these parts, then the OP should not be messing around with the trigger.

The trigger is what makes things go BOOM.

A floppy trigger is better and safer than a dangerous, possibly preloaded, trigger.

 

[IanH]

Peen the trigger blade to stretch it higher/closer to the sear arm and peen the slot in the trigger plate to reduce lateral play. Add a feather spring. Either peen the trigger or plate to decrease the forward stop point.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Hey

I’ve got a new Crockett pistol and the trigger flops are over the place. Even when at full cock, there a BUNCH of lateral play and forward and back.

Any tricks to snug this up? Maybe how to add some type of trigger return spring of some form? It doesn’t seem to affect shootability too much but is just annoying for sure.

Thanks gang!!

From what you describe there are several issues to correct OR ignore. I am not one for springs although if that is what you want, go for it. Not seening what you have I assume there are no shoulders sandwiching the blade, so make some and solder them on. Lateral wobble fixed! Forward wobble is most likely because the trigger bar bottom is not bottoming on the trigger plate. Add to the bottom of the bar or place a spacer on top of the trigger base plate. Rearward wobble is because the trigger bar is not high enough. I have soldered metal on top of trigger bars and they work just fine. Add about 1/8" extra height so you can trim it to exact needed height. A caliper depth rod will give you the desired height of the trigger bar above the finish side of the base plate. If your trigger base plate does not sit exactly flush with the stock, then you need to take that into consideration when measuring the depth of the sear from the stock face. Triggers can be a PIA if they are not right, but the challenge is always entertaining.
Larry

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

I'll say it as politely as I can.

If the OP can't figure this out on his own or doesn't understand the interplay between these parts, then the OP should not be messing around with the trigger.

The trigger is what makes things go BOOM.

A floppy trigger is better and safer than a dangerous, possibly preloaded, trigger.

Can I send it to you so you can work your magic on it Springer?

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

From what you describe there are several issues to correct OR ignore. I am not one for springs although if that is what you want, go for it. Not seening what you have I assume there are no shoulders sandwiching the blade, so make some and solder them on. Lateral wobble fixed! Forward wobble is most likely because the trigger bar bottom is not bottoming on the trigger plate. Add to the bottom of the bar or place a spacer on top of the trigger base plate. Rearward wobble is because the trigger bar is not high enough. I have soldered metal on top of trigger bars and they work just fine. Add about 1/8" extra height so you can trim it to exact needed height. A caliper depth rod will give you the desired height of the trigger bar above the finish side of the base plate. If your trigger base plate does not sit exactly flush with the stock, then you need to take that into consideration when measuring the depth of the sear from the stock face. Triggers can be a PIA if they are not right, but the challenge is always entertaining.
Larry

Thanks, Larry! Is soldering hard? I’ve never done it before. What do I need?

Am I better off sending it away? If so, who could do the work?

 

[64Springer]

Can I send it to you so you can work your magic on it Springer?

Just trying to help you out.

Spare parts are difficult to find lately.

And if located, getting those parts installed is expensive.

Be well.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Just trying to help you out.

Spare parts are difficult to find lately.

And if located, getting those parts installed is expensive.

Be well.

Way to snake your way out of that one!

 

[TDM]

Would like to see a photo of your trigger. Is it pinned through the stock? I've corrected sloppy triggers by soldering additional steel to the trigger plate, then filing off the excess until it doesn't contact the sear at the full cock position. Just a slight clearance, 1/32" or so, is all you need and the slop is gone.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Way to snake your way out of that one!

Sorry for being a burden. I know I’m not a part of the “cool kids club” here and some members are quick to show that.

Just trying to learn and grow. Sorry.

 

[BoomStick]

You could order a replacement trigger from The Gun Works. When I bought one from them it came with a spring that (if memory is correct) kept the trigger down with just a little tension. From a parts diagram the Crockett trigger looks the same as the older colonial pistol. Most traditions parts are interchangeable...most share the same lock, for example, so likely the trigger will fit.

 

[NorthFork]

Honestly it is what is on Traditions/CVA/Ardesa/Jukar/Dikar single trigger guns for the most part.

 

[BoomStick]

Also might try, tightening screw "C" or bending part "B" to hold the pin more securely...

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Sorry for being a burden. I know I’m not a part of the “cool kids club” here and some members are quick to show that.

Just trying to learn and grow. Sorry.

I'm far from one of the cool kids here. I think most guys hate my stinking guts here.