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Help...i shattered a nipple.

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kingsax26

45 Cal.
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OK so as odd as that sounds theres no double entendre involved. Went to the range today and took my beater traditions kentucky rifle. All was fine i loaded I pulled the trigger and it went bang.....However after i reloaded and was about to put another cap on, I discovered the nipple had literaly "shattered" into 3 small pieces leaving only the screw in base....what happened what did i do wrong ?
 
In scientific circles, the technical term for what happened to your nipple would be called "bad luck". Just a faulty nipple, that's all, stuff happens. Replace it with a good quality nipple and keep on shooting. Bill
 
Done it twice m'self. Bottom line is, you can only whack a small piece of metal packed with explosives so many times before it gives up the ghost.
 
It would appear that the molecular structure of the tubular structure was afflicted with an inherent imperfection which, upon repeated percussive strikes, initiated an inevitable bifuraction of the whole. It happens.
 
You didn't do anything wrong.

In order to withstand the beating the hammer does, nipples are hardened.
After they are hardened, they need to be softened just a bit by tempering them.

The harder a steel is, the more brittle it is so, if your nipple wasn't tempered enough by the company that made it (a common occurrence with many factory nipples) its cone just shattered.

I haven't heard of this happening with the stainless steel or Ampco bronze materials so you need to buy an aftermarket nipple to replace the broken one.

The nipple thread size for your gun is the metric 6-1mm.

Here's a link to Track of the Wolfs selection.

To save a bit on postage you might want to get several.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/807/1
 
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Yup. I've seen it most often in "hot shot" nipples with the little hole drilled in the side, but I've seen it in plain ones too. If you're watching with the hotshots, it will first appear as a longitudinal crack between the little hole and the top of the nipple, then all heck breaks out on the next firing. A couple of times I've noticed a little different sound on firing when the crack first forms. A quick check, and sure enough it's wrench time.
 
well lemme tell ya ...i learnewd a valuable lesson today ....always keep a few spares around i ruined to wood ramrods getting the damned ball out!
well at least the charge wasnt stuck in there but im gonna miss my candy cane striped ram rod ...it was purdy! oh well time to make another ...anyone know what size ramrod i need for a traditions rifle with factory thimbles?
 
Most have a nine mm ramrod. (just under the 3/8 standard on American made rifles) But there is enough "stock" in the thimbles that they can be reamed out to accept the 3/8 with no problem! :idunno:
 
You know I have never had that problem. Most likely because I keep a couple of spares on hand. By the way the only place that I was able to find straight grained hickory was DGW. I got 7 and they are all great. Soaking them in karosine or char coal lighter far a day makes them bend more than break. I make a trough out of alum-foil.Geo. T.
 
Bryon said:
OK so as odd as that sounds theres no double entendre involved. Went to the range today and took my beater traditions kentucky rifle. All was fine i loaded I pulled the trigger and it went bang.....However after i reloaded and was about to put another cap on, I discovered the nipple had literaly "shattered" into 3 small pieces leaving only the screw in base....what happened what did i do wrong ?

YOU did nothing wrong.
Lots of parts for MLs (including many American made ML barrels) are made of unsuitable materials. Nipples and drums included. It was probably made of some free machining (brittle) steel, was not properly hardened/tempered OR it work hardened over time and finally broke.
MANY times when something fails the USER thinks its his fault with in reality its the MAKER using cheap materials that is at fault.
Nipples are a wear part anyway, they need to be examined and replaced when necessary.

Dan
 
Bryon said:
well lemme tell ya ...i learnewd a valuable lesson today ....always keep a few spares around i ruined to wood ramrods getting the damned ball out!
well at least the charge wasnt stuck in there but im gonna miss my candy cane striped ram rod ...it was purdy! oh well time to make another ...anyone know what size ramrod i need for a traditions rifle with factory thimbles?

It is impossible to reliably buy a good rod, you need a selection of HICKORY rods 6 or 10, then choose the one of two that are straight grained and usable, hold them by the end and whack them on the floor a time or two. If they don't break reduce the diameter to fit the pipes, fit a brass tip that is both pinned with a 1/16 pin and GOOD epoxy. Wax a jags threads with paste wax and screw it in the threads to keep the threaded hole clear of glue.
Rods not made of Hickory are a waste or time. Rod not straight grained are dangerous. Since they always break at an angle and are usually plenty sharp enough to go right through your hand.
TO pull a ball dump is some OIL first not a lot. 1/2 teaspoon or so let it flow to the ball and set for 5 minutes or so. Water will work if the bore is fouled. Then try pulling the ball. A 5/16" metal rod is the best option for this.
Use a good ball puller with a brass collar close to bore size.
Better to work 10 grains of powder behind the ball through the vent or by removing the nipple and simply shoot it out.
Dan

P.S. Hickory is one of the least abrasive rods as well as the best wood.
 

"an extra"? As in just one?
I must have a hundred accumulated over the decades for reasons that now escape me.
More often than not (I have been almost flint lock exclusive for a long time now), I use them to help others at the range who are having problems like the OP stated. It is also one reason my range box weighs almost 90 pounds. :shocked2:
 
No one else has mentioned it yet, but we Traditions shooters have all learned this lesson. The stock nipples on Traditions guns,at least in the past 10 years, are prone to shattering. The first thing you should do when buying a Traditions gun is to replace it with a different nipple. And since you have to buy a nipple anyway, buy at least 3. That is the only problem I have ever had with my Traditions Rifle or pistol. I have bought mine from Deer Creek and had good service with their replacements.
 
Not a scientist, but in automotive engineering the appropriate term of art is something like, "Feces happens"
 
Or, the hammer is not hitting square on the nipple. Can you hit a nail at a 45* angle and not bend it over? Same thing with the nipple. I can see this happen all the time with the way the CVA type guns are made. If that drum is not timed exactly to the hammer, the hammer will not hit square and it will end up smashing or breaking the nipple off.
 
Rifleman1776 said:

"an extra"? As in just one?
I must have a hundred accumulated over the decades for reasons that now escape me.
More often than not (I have been almost flint lock exclusive for a long time now), I use them to help others at the range who are having problems like the OP stated. It is also one reason my range box weighs almost 90 pounds. :shocked2:

I think that they call that "Hoarding". :stir: :blah: :haha:
 
Ghettogun said:
No one else has mentioned it yet, but we Traditions shooters have all learned this lesson. The stock nipples on Traditions guns,at least in the past 10 years, are prone to shattering. The first thing you should do when buying a Traditions gun is to replace it with a different nipple. And since you have to buy a nipple anyway, buy at least 3. That is the only problem I have ever had with my Traditions Rifle or pistol. I have bought mine from Deer Creek and had good service with their replacements.

Yup. On the first shot with my Traditions .50 cal Hawken kit gun the nipple shattered. I now have several stainless extras.
 
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