Help with my gun

[woodse guy]

Thanks, thats what dad was told I guess but I don't know. I will look next time I'm at my brothers.

 

[woodse guy]

Does thread size matter for a replacement rod or is one as good as the other.

 

[Zonie]

The metal end often is offered with one of two different sized threads in it.

These thread sizes are the #8-32 and the #10-32.

Brass "jags" (grooved cylinders with attachment threads), ball screws (for removing stuck balls), brushes, and patch worms are offered with either sized threads. If you have any of these attachments you should measure the diameter of the thread that is on it.

A #8 sized thread will be .164 (about 5/32) in diameter and a #10 sized thread will be .190 (about 3/16) in diameter. This is the size of the largest area of a male screw.

If you don't have attachements I would recommend buying the ramrod with the #10-32 thread as this larger size is stronger than the #8 thread.
It is also the size of some common modern rifle cleaning attachments.

 

[woodse guy]

I went to Wal-Mart tonight and they had some of there black power stuff on sale. I got a brass brush and a boar mop for about a dollar.

 

[pchwcf50110]

I went to Wal-Mart tonight and they had some of there black power stuff on sale. I got a brass brush and a boar mop for about a dollar.

do the boars stand still while you mop them?

 

[woodse guy]

Can you tell that I manage a hog farm. :shake:

 

[pchwcf50110]

 

[woodse guy]

Has anyone ever tried the moose juice? I'm getting ready to mix some up and just wanted to know how you carried the patches.

 

[woodse guy]

Well I got the patches cut and lubed with moose juice. Went out and shot at 25 yards two hit close to the same hole. Is it possible that my barrel could still be have good accuracy that close and not shoot worth a crap out to 100 yards. I only got to shoot twice had to shoot my brothers gun also and then go eat for Christmas.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Poor groups at 100 yds. is usually a problem of " operator error, rather than an inaccurate barrel. Iron sights are not usually made to be used on small targets at that long range. You can get such sights, but most of these factory sights will have a bead, or post that covers 8 inches at 100 yds. Unless you are very skilled, and well-trained to shoot iron sights, shooting small groups at that distance is next to impossible, even when using a gun with a fine barrel you Know will shoot small groups. A 3-4" groups at 100 yds is considered quite adequate for hunting deer, BTW.

That is about as good as I can do, given my eyesight, and iron sights at 100 yds. If I put a scope on the same gun, I can cut those groups in half at the same distance, using a rest. I don't put scopes on my MLers. :hmm: :surrender: :thumbsup:

 

[woodse guy]

Where can I find a good target for iron sights at 100 yards all the targets that I have are for scopes. And they just don't work that well for me.

 

[paulvallandigham]

It depends on what kind of sights you are using, and what you are trying to accomplish. Look up "Targets" on Google and check out what is there for free to download.

Bead front sights seem to work the best using ROUND bullseye targets. You stack the bull on top of the bead( a "6 o'clock" hold). Pistol shooters long ago learned to leave daylight between the top of their front sights( Usually wide square posts, in comparison to the size of the bullseye)and let their "Eye" maintain the same distance between the bottom of the bull and the top of the sight. It can work with iron sights on rifles, whether BEAD or post.

Chunk Gun Shooters use "sighters". These targets usually have blocks of off-colored squares, that bracket the front sight- side and top, while the top of the rear sight is level with the top of the front sight. This allows for some incredible precision shooting with iron sights at the 60 yd. targets. The Goal of this kind of match is to place the ball as close to the center of an X on a separate piece of paper- which you are allowed to move to where you think your ball is going to strike based on wind and weather conditions at the time the shot is taken. You can look up the Sgt. York Memorial Chunk Gun match site,and I believe they list the scores from last year's match. he winner put 10 shots in a combined string of 3.6-something inches, if I recall correctly.The man who placed Tenth in that match had won the World Champion Chunk Gun match the year before, with a string that was worse than the string he shot that won 10th place in 2010.

You should be able to find a variety of targets, many with 1" blocks, or squares, and 4 inch squares bracketing a white bullseye, that seem to work quite well with Iron Sights.

You can also contact the NMLRA, and they have a whole catalog of targets that are "official" for use in NMLRA sanctioned shooting matches. Very few of these are designed to be used ONLY with scope sights.

If you have access to a photocopy machine, you can make as many targets as you want- either of your own design, or from those you can down load and print off the internet. If you are doing high volume copies, always check with a local print shop to see if they can't make you a lot of copies for a lot less than you will be charged at the dry photocopy machine shops. :thumbsup:

 

[David W.]

Where can I find a good target for iron sights at 100 yards all the targets that I have are for scopes. And they just don't work that well for me.

What's yer eye sight like?

 

[mowolf]

I see you are in MO. You can get Goex black powder at Graf's in Mexico, MO or St. Charles.

 

[woodse guy]

I wear glasses but it's not to bad.

 

[woodse guy]

I'm having a problem I think when I clean my gun. When I start to pull the patch out it always comes off of the cleaning jag every time. The patches that I have been using are 3 inches square. I have not been using water yet because of the amount of rust that was in the barrel when I started.

I think that I may have to get a new barrel how do I measure my barrel to get a new one. And who makes a good one.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Are you using a cleaning Jag on your rod,
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/TableList.aspx?catID=6&subID=49&styleID=152

or a loading tip?
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/TableList.aspx?catID=6&subID=49&styleID=164

It sounds like whatever you are using is NOT designed to grab the cleaning patch, as a proper jag will.

As to how to measure your bore, use a caliper to insert into the muzzle. You want to know the land to land diameter( bore diameter) as well as the Groove diameter( which will be wider).

Generally, for best accuracy, use a Round Ball that is .005" to .010" smaller than the bore diameter, with a .015-.020" thick patch around the ball. Use mattress ticking, or linen patch material that have a good tight weave to them.

Always read your spent patches. They tell you what is actually happening in your barrel when the gun is fired.

If yuou don't already have it, spend $19.95 to buy Dutch Schoultz's Black Powder Accuracy System.
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

Its the best investment in your education you can find. :thumbsup:

 

[woodse guy]

What I have been using looks like the first one but it has a lot more rings on it and is probably about 3/4 of an inch long. I'm asking questions before I need to, so first who makes a good replacement barrel in a 50 cal.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

I'm having a problem I think when I clean my gun. When I start to pull the patch out it always comes off of the cleaning jag every time. The patches that I have been using are 3 inches square. I have not been using water yet because of the amount of rust that was in the barrel when I started.

I think that I may have to get a new barrel how do I measure my barrel to get a new one. And who makes a good one.

This means that you're just adding to the rust problem every time that you shoot it, since it sounds like it never got a thorough cleaning. Water isn't your enemy, it's your FRIEND! A good thorough washing using the pumping method to get rid of all of the fouling is what needs to be done to stop the rust cycle! Then a good rust preventative like Birchwood Casey Barricade blown through the entire bore and out the nipple, then store the rifle muzzle-down on a piece of paper toweling. Every couple days, soak a couple more patches in Barricade and run them through the bore, noting any rust.

You might just save yourself from buying another barrel this way :thumbsup: . Don't be so quick to give-up on a barrel, especially if it shoots well! Sometimes a little lapping compound will also help to get rid of the rust.

Also check your water supply for iron content. If you have a lot of iron, you could be confusing that with rust, but since you mentioned that you haven't used water yet, now's the time to flush-out the crud and start a-new! :wink:

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Dave

 

[woodse guy]

What I have been using is TC #13 black power bore cleaner. The way that I have been cleaning goes like this.
1. I run a patch soaked down with this stuff and let it set for a little bit. I have been doing this until the patches come out fairly clean.
2. Due to the amount of rust and pitting that was in the barrel I scrub the bore with a brush.
3. Then more patches soaked with the stuff and back to the brush until I get a clean patch.
4. To oil the bore I have been using Rem oil or some other rust preventer that I use on my modern rifles.
There is a lot of pitting in the barrel from what I can tell from using a bore light. Will the pumping action still work with a barrel that is pitted?