Historic definition of "Swan Shot"

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Capt. Jas. said:
Yes, what is a bungbour?
:grin:

Gents,

I admit I do not know for sure, so I looked online for the Inventory List Capt James mentioned. Since the full list includes many woodworking tools, my GUESS is this is a "Bung Bore" Tool to drill and ream bung holes in wood barrels.

Gus
 
I would agree it is something like that. In truth, I accidentally copied that one in but after noticing I left it in because I had no idea. Hey we are already playing in the mud right?
:rotf:
 
When I googled "bungbour" the ONLY thing that came up was the Inventory you mentioned. That really surprised me out of the billions of words on the internet.

Even though the list contains other tools "by the dozen" and GOOD GRIEF - FIFTEEN hand saws, this tool is all by itself. Tapered Wood Boring Bits were not unknown for other uses; including for boring holes for legs in tables, chairs, stools etc., BUT many Bung Hole bores had a center screw along with the tapered bit and that was quite uncommon for other tools.

Yes, we are "back in the mud" on this one. :haha:

Gus
 
From The Gentleman's Recreation, 1686.

"Let your Shot be well cast and round, without Tails hanging on, which in the Flight gathereth Wind and by Consequence Flieth not so far. As to the size it must be according to the Fowl or Birds you design to kill, but not too great, for then it flies thin and scattering; nor yet too small, for then it is of small force; for the Fowl will Fly away with it, as having neither strength nor weight to enter far to their prejudice.

"Now forasmuch as Shot can't be had in all places answerable to your desired size, and for that the making is so easie and cheap, it will be convenient to lay down some directions for the making of the same."

"Being provided with Lead (let it be old or new it matters not), Melt it down in an Iron Vessel, keeping it always stirring with an Iron Ladle, which should have a lip or Notch in the Brim for the better convenience pouring it out, and be sure to take off all Dross and Filth that swims to the top: And when it is so hot that it appears of a Greenish colour, strewn apon it as much of the Powder of Auripigmentum [yellow arsenic] as will lye upon a Shilling (provided there be about ten or twelve pounds of Lead), and then stir the lead well and the Auripigmentum will flame; then take out a little of the Lead in the Ladle for an essay, and cause it to drop a little into a Glass of Water , and if the Drops prove round and without Tails, there is enough Auripigmentum in it, and the temper of the heat is as it ought to be; but it the Drops not be round and with Tails, then add more of the said Auripigmentum, and augment the heat until it be well.

"Then take a Copper or Brass Plate of about the size of a Trencher, or bigger or lesser as you think fit, with a Concavity in the middle, about three or four Inches in Diameter, wherein must be made fourty or fifty holes of several sizes, to what you would have your Shot to be; this concave bottom should be thin, but the Brim thick, the better to retain the heat. This Plate should be placed on two Bars or over an Iron Frame, over a Tub or Pail of Fair Water, about four inches from the Water. Then with your Ladle take off your Lead and pour it gently on the Plate, on which should be burning Coals to keep it hot, for the Lead will find its passage through the Coals and into the Water, and fall in round Drops; when the Coals are out or dead, put on more, and so continue pouring the Lead until you have finished what you intend. If the Lead stop the Plate, and yet is not too cool, give the plate a little knock and it will drop again.

"Your chief care is that the Lead be in good Condition, as not too cold, or too hot, for if too hot it will drop cracky, and if too cold it will stop the holes; therefore as near as you can observe the temper of the heat, and you will have a good round Shot without Tails."

Spence
 
WOW, such a great original reference about adding arsenic to ensure the shot comes out round without tails AND so early as well!!!!

:thumbsup: :hatsoff: To Spence for once again supplying superb documentation!!!

Gus
 
Many thanks Spence. I had looked at that three or four times in my book but since I didn't have it already on computer there was no way it was going to get typed out by me
 
Thanks Spence. :thumbsup:

I was going to mention a few days ago that pure lead won't form spherical drops so trying to use the "drop into water" method will end up with long blobs or pellets with tails.

Adding arsenic to the lead makes it form spherical balls as it falls from the sieve and your quote proves this was known over 350 years ago.
 
In Wyeth Co., VA there was a lead mine which supplied lead for both the AWI and the Civil War. It was run by Moses Austin during the Rev. period, and there is still a beautiful shot tower left from that operation. Commenting on the English patent for drop shot tower technology in 1791, he said ".....by experience I have found a much better mode to introduce arsnic and find the white much preferable to the yellow from it purity in strength." Apparently it was commonly done even during commercial production.

It's the surface tension which causes liquids to form spheres when free falling, so apparently arsenic increases the surface tension of lead. Wonder what they use for that, today.

Spence
 
Spence,
Thank you very much for all you continue to do to teach us history and the how and why.
 
I personally don't believe it was either the lead or the arsenic killing ducks or condors, unless they were shot with it. And if that is the case, then any projectile, including any rock you or I might pick up, is going to get banned next if they have their way. :youcrazy:
 
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