nchawkeye
58 Cal.
With a flintlock just put a round tooth pick in the vent and pour water down the barrel, dump it out...Swab and repeat, then dry and oil...No real need for tubing, flushing etc..
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How do I take the barrel out of the stock?
- Thread starter John Shields
- Start date
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Yep, and use a ketchup/mustard type bottle (dispenser) with a spout to prevent spilling the water at the muzzle and getting the stock wet.
54ball
62 Cal.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2004
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Food for thought...
My late uncles M-1873 Trapdoor Springfield that best can be described as in relic condition with heavy pitting on nearly all metal surfaces. When the barrel was removed a still intact rust blue was revealed.
This has been the case for many original Kentuckies too. Removing the barrel is one way for researchers to ascertain just what type of finish the original rifle had.
So IMHO the barrel rusting in the stock, even if exposed to a little moisture from time to time is a non issue. Some of these firearms were over 200 years old.
Secondly, does it really matter if it does rust in the stock?
If one has to remove the barrel from a fullstock as a matter of anal retentive routine, I suggest the pins be replaced with keys.
As far as glass bedding, To me that's a sign of poor workmanship. Many smiths use it to repair loose breech fit, in that case it has a purpose but the breech should not be loose in the first place.
My late uncles M-1873 Trapdoor Springfield that best can be described as in relic condition with heavy pitting on nearly all metal surfaces. When the barrel was removed a still intact rust blue was revealed.
This has been the case for many original Kentuckies too. Removing the barrel is one way for researchers to ascertain just what type of finish the original rifle had.
So IMHO the barrel rusting in the stock, even if exposed to a little moisture from time to time is a non issue. Some of these firearms were over 200 years old.
Secondly, does it really matter if it does rust in the stock?
If one has to remove the barrel from a fullstock as a matter of anal retentive routine, I suggest the pins be replaced with keys.
As far as glass bedding, To me that's a sign of poor workmanship. Many smiths use it to repair loose breech fit, in that case it has a purpose but the breech should not be loose in the first place.
I had a stock repaired and the smith glass bedded, gun was 50% more accurate (or more) after the bedding? Other wise I would agree. Like Acupuncture, I don't believe in it but it stopped my 3-4 x a month migraines 20 yrs ago with three treatments?? Not a single migraine since the stickin. Maybe bedding serves another purpose?
Patocazador
54 Cal.
As thin as forestocks are, glass bedding is a useful and preventative thing to do. It can't hurt but it can prevent fracture where the wood is weak due to a natural (or man-made) defect. It's like fire insurance; you shouldn't need it if you take proper precautions and have proper wiring but if you do, you're darn glad you bought it.
LongrifleDoc
40 Cal.
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- Mar 20, 2014
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What do you suggest sealing it with?
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LongrifleDoc said:
Sorry it took a while for me to see your post.
The problem is that most authentic/period correct 18th or even most 19th century materials normally will not really seal the wood that well. Maybe some of the ultra expensive violin varnishes of the day may have done it, but they just were not used on gun stocks outside of perhaps those guns made for the nobility and royalty.
The best sealing finish I know of for gun stock wood is Birchwood Casey’s “Tru Oil.” It has a linseed oil base, but also has varnish in it. I have personally witnessed how it stands up to the weather in Okinawa, Hawaii, California, Virginia, North Carolina, Ohio. Indiana and the UK. Nothing else is quite as good IMO.
Gus
