How do you prime?

[Lyndon]

Me three.
I started priming directly from my horn (prime, not load) a few years ago and haven't noticed a difference between the 3F and 4F. If anything it seams like the 3F does not draw as much moisture in damp weather since it is more course.
My priming horn fell by the wayside along with the range rod and a few other things that swing, clang, or just plain get in the way.

 

[RocklockI]

Brass primer thrower ,cut to length for your pan .

Even a small little priming horn . just dose it and blow away what you dont need for fast ignition.

When shooting today ,a Bess a Buss and my sweet .36 Snipper rifle .

I made a convert too of this guy , he can shoot a brown bess ! off hand at 35 yds he hit the belly button of the shilloette twice with the second going darn near thru the first shot.

Never shot a flinter B4 ......

 

[colmoultrie]

If it's the same incident I heard about a year or so ago, the shooter had a flash in the pan and, after waiting, attempted to reprime. He was not smoking, but he had an ember somewhere in the pan or touchhole.

I suppose it could have happened with almost any priming system, but the brass contained the explosion and turned the primer into a grenade. It may or may not have been better with a priming horn; it would likely have been worse with a main horn that was anywhere near full.

 

[rabjr]

Ok, I can see that possibly happening but it wasn't caused by the brass plunger. Also another reason to always wipe the pan before priming. :v

 

[msgt]

Agree about humidity. The other day I ran out of 4F with my North Star trade gun and used 3F. I did notice slower ignition with 3F. That being said when using a flinchlock, stay on target untill the fat lady sings. Anyone that has mastered a flintlock can shoot the rest.
Jeff

 

[bchannell]

I've been making priming horns from the very tips of the horn, that hold only a hundred or so grains of powder, then putting a spring loaded 3 grain tip on them. They're small, and look great, easy to carry in pocket, bag or around my neck. I use either 4f or 7f in the small horns. I've never been able to pour directly from my main horn to the pan, or I'd probably use that, but there just isn't enough room for my huge hands to get in there and keep from pouring powder everywhere.

 

[Darkgael]

I carry a small brass plunger flask on a cord around my neck. Before each and every shot, I use a small brush to "sweep" the pan. Then I pick the charge with a piece of wire.
Then, one push on the plunger gets me about a quarter to a third of the pan. I put it on the outside edge(right hand for me).
Ignition is virtually instantaneous - clickbang, not click, bang.
Pete

 

[paulvallandigham]

The mouth of the priming horn has to "approach" the flash pan from the SIDE of the gun, not over the barrel, or over the lock or frizzen. Tap the mouth of the horn on the outside edge of the flash pan, until you get a few grains of powder flowing, or dropping into the pan. It takes a bit of " Practice" before you know how to hold the horn, and how much you need to "tap" the mouth on the rim of the pan, but its NOT rocket science. :thumbsup:

 

[buzz]

one thing i have yet to see in this topic is prime then load main charge or load then prime
i seen it done both ways for me i load main then
prime always think if its safer that way

 

[vern faulkner]

You're doing it the right way, and yes it is safer.
Vern

 

[rabjr]

one thing i have yet to see in this topic is prime then load main charge or load then prime
i seen it done both ways for me i load main then
prime always think if its safer that way

I think the prime then load, really comes from the military way of the day. Thats how they did it, ripping a paper cartridge, pour a bit of prime, close the frizzen, then pour powder and ram the ball home. The military was drilled loading this way. That worked back then and works now with blanks in reinacting but it's much safer to load first then prime today for us civilians.

 

[Marc Adamchek]

I think the mostg important thing to remember is not to put too much powder in the pan. It only takes a very small amountn of powder to get a good, efficient ignition. I think a common mistake with newbies is that they fill the pan with a ton of powder. This actually works against getting a good,clean ignition.

 

[squib load]

Ok,guys,Iam now a priming fool.squib

 

[Skychief]

Less priming works better for me than a lot of priming. Others mileage may vary of course. :idunno:

 

[ebiggs1]

I think the mostg important thing to remember is not to put too much powder in the pan. It only takes a very small amountn of powder to get a good, efficient ignition. I think a common mistake with newbies is that they fill the pan with a ton of powder. This actually works against getting a good,clean ignition.

Less priming works better for me than a lot of priming. Others mileage may vary of course. :idunno:

OK, I’ll bite. Why would less prime work better than more prime? What are your(s) rationales for this? The prime thrown by most of the plunger primers throws about 3 grs, I guess, and that sorta fills the pans of any of my flintlocks. The fire may last longer but why wouldn’t it get to the main charge just as fast? Plus the more powder you have in the pan, the more likely a spark will ignite it.
This is a quote by Larry Pletcher form his fantastic tests on flintlock ignition.

“This means that when I prime my locks, my emphasis will be close to the vent rather than away from it, but the bottom of the pan must have sufficient prime for sparks to land in.”

You can read his full document at blackpowdermag.com if you wish to do so.

 

[Gotspark]

I use a brass primer and you push in the spout and just the right amount comes out. But then this is all range experience as this will be my first season hunting with a flint. I bought a priming horn but it seems to be just the right size for a couple of charges to take for a hunting walk.I got a big horn for woods walks if I ever get to one.I guess I'll be working it all out this season to see what works best for me,but I intend on priming from the horn and such at the range so I can get a feel for it.

 

[rabjr]

Yeah, never understood the less is better crowd but if it works great for them.

I do not skimp on the prime. I use 3F to prime and one of the big brass plungers that says it throws 4gr's. All my locks get two plunges and the powder is still under the bottom of the vent. If my flint sparks, my gun goes off. Can't remember the last dreaded "flash in the pan".

 

[hanshi]

It can also depend on the size of the lock. A prime that would half fill my large Silers pan looks lonesome in the huge pan of my Colonial Va lock. I prefer to use as small amount of prime possible and still get consistent ignition. This means the Colonial Va pan gets twice the prime of the large Siler. My brass "springy thingy" throws a 3 grain charge but in test weighing it averages closer to 2 grains. In fact, the Silers do well with less than 2 grains. Small prime can mean faster ignition in that a lot of burning powder isn't needed to produce a flash that will spew through the vent.

 

[buzz]

one thing i noticed if i fill the pan full i have a little longer delay then if the pan is half full touch hhole is right at the top of the pan
i have also found each gun is little different

 

[ebiggs1]

I can only suggest you read the full document at blackpowdermag.com.