How hard should it be to pull a ball?

[Jay Gardner]

Not really sure where to post this question but here it comes: last weekend I dry-balled my .40 flinter. I screwed in the ball puller, shoved the rod down the barrel, gave it a few twists and was able to pull out the ball with ease. On a previous occasion I dry-balled my .50 cap-gun and had to use a CO-2 rig to get it out. So, the question is how tight should a ball fit? I was using a .395 ball and .15 pre-lub patches.

Thanks,

Jay

 

[roundball]

Not really sure where to post this question but here it comes: last weekend I dry-balled my .40 flinter. I screwed in the ball puller, shoved the rod down the barrel, gave it a few twists and was able to pull out the ball with ease. On a previous occasion I dry-balled my .50 cap-gun and had to use a CO-2 rig to get it out. So, the question is how tight should a ball fit? I was using a .395 ball and .15 pre-lub patches.

Thanks,
Jay

I use .018" pillow ticking and all mine slide right out easily whether .45/.50/.54...however, a couple times I've accidently used a small .45cal ball puller in a larger .54cal bore and had difficulties...assume it was because the smaller caliber puller has a smaller brass collar around it and since I have the rifle laying horizontal on a bench when I put in the puller, it allowed the screw to be laying low off-center of the ball, barely got any purchase, and pulled right out...but other than that, they slide out easily on those lubed patches

 

[2172]

at our club, a dry loaded ball usually requires at least two guys to pull it..we have a permanent rope pull mounted on a tree at the side of the range, and we hook the ramrod end to it, and then at least two guys pull on the gun...often three. Me, I've given up on pulling a ball...I use a CO2 discharger. I will say we have a number of members who must use a mallet to seat their ball, the fit is so tight..Hank

 

[Stumpkiller]

It should be no harder coming out than it was going in. Easier, in fact, as the ball and patch are now deformed to fit the bore, and if there was fouling from a prior shot when the ball was loaded they wiped it away on the trip down.

 

[hobbles]

I'm, lazy,, I pull my nipple, put in powder fire it, pull the nipple again put more powder in, ram the ball back in and fire it out,, don't need much powder to get it out,, I'm not sure, but I think I could fire it down range, put my weapon down and run down and catch the ball,

 

[hobbles]

hmmm,, guess ya can't do that with a flinter,, huh ?? never mind,,,,

 

[roundball]

hmmm,, guess ya can't do that with a flinter,, huh ?? never mind,,,,

Yes, you can if you have a removeable vent liner

 

[hobbles]

I didn't know that,,, I guess I better check one of those out some day,, NO,, I better NOT,, I don't need nother weapon,, I might like em,,

 

[bob1961]

I might like em,,

no....ya will love them eace: ............bob

 

[hobbles]

that's what I'm afraid of

I ain't fired my 30/30 since I got my hawken..

 

[mark starr]

I had trouble pulling one last week I poured a little water down the barrel and it came rightout. :thumbsup:

 

[TANSTAAFL]

It should be no harder coming out than it was going in. Easier, in fact, as the ball and patch are now deformed to fit the bore, and if there was fouling from a prior shot when the ball was loaded they wiped it away on the trip down.

Some people seat a ball pretty hard. If the gun has been fouled and a ball is upset down below the often rock hard ring found just above the normal load/seating area, it could be a real problem to pull.

If it does not come out easy, I would give the bore a good soak with good old H20 before getting too western with it.

 

[THOM]

I have a nylon range rod..
On the back end I have a hole drilled thru it; with a short loop of nylon rope..
When I dryball; I use my ball puller, AFTER pouring water down the barrel.. I ALWAYS wet a load - powders cheap compared to life and limb..
Reach up and loop it on a peg, branch, sky-hook; whatever; and just pull down on the gun..
Hope it helps, and I ALWAYS consider ALL GUNS LOADED at all times..
Works for me
Spring forward
limpin'frog :sleep: :sleep:

 

[Jay Gardner]

It should be no harder coming out than it was going in. Easier, in fact, as the ball and patch are now deformed to fit the bore, and if there was fouling from a prior shot when the ball was loaded they wiped it away on the trip down.

Now that's logical.

Thanks,

Doublegun

 

[Greg Walden]

Thanks, Frog that sounds like a good trick. I will try that next time, cause we all know there WILL be a next time!

Greg

 

[Leonredbeard]

hobbles,
when you dryball a flinter with a drilled flash hole, put a large pan full of primer in the pan, tilt the gun toward the barrel, use you pick to push priming through, that is, assuming you stopped ramming before your put the ball against the breech. You may have to do this three times. Then prime the pan normally and fire the ball out. Makes a nice bang and you can wait for the ball to hit the twentyfive yard backer. Hee Hee! :results:
God bless.
volatpluvia

 

[B.Habermehl]

When hunting season is in I will allways pull the load at the end of the day and start off the next day with a clean freshly loaded rifle. Pulling a ball in a clean gun is easy, pulling a ball in a dirty barrel is less easy. A slop of hot coffe will help suprisingly well at the range when it is necessary to pull a ball from a dirty barrel. We have a overhead hook at our range for ball pulling. So we don't have those scarey tug of wars with a loaded rifle. BJH

 

[Zonie]

The few times I used a ball screw, the barrel was dirty, and I had the distinct feeling that the ball screw had expanded the ball in the bore when it was screwed into it.
You know, like those lead plugs that go into the hole in the wall easily, but after screwing the screw into it it expands and becomes tighter than Scrooge before payday.

That was long before I found this forum, and all of the wisdom on it.

If there is ever another time I have to use my ball screw to get a load out, I will remember to pour some water down the barrel to soften the fouling and the patch.

From this, you might assume I never dry ball my guns.
Well, I do of course from time to time.
When that happens, I use the old trickel the 4F in method. That has worked for me, so far.....

 

[B.Habermehl]

I am certain that the ball does expand when you drive a ball screw into it. But it is a once and done event, lead has no memory. It's not a rubber ball and does not have the memory or resiliancy that rubber or similar has. BJH