armymedic.2
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
- Messages
- 586
- Reaction score
- 1
So after some experimentation this is what i have settled on that works well for me. little labor intensive but worth it if you've nothing better to do while watching tv.
also, if someone has a better way please do share.
so,what i have learned is to avoid is making snug fitting cartridges. anything close to bore size, upon trying to push down the barrel has always lodged somewhere before seating. ive seen where some people have the fiber wad or other wad be part of the shot cartridge. this doesn't work for me and never seats.
so i experimented and what works very simply in the field is this:
if you want iot to be more "pc" just tie with twine on both ends instead of using the glue stick.
i wrap newspaper 2 thicknesses around a slightly under bore object. in my .62 i like .58 or anything close. but not snug.
i put a strip of glue, wrap, and finish with another coat of glue on the end of the roll, so it stays put and forms a tube. then i stick the dowel or object into the tube, and form the round blunt end of the roll and glue shut. then i fill with shot or powder and glue/fold the other end.
you end up with this:
shot is in the longer one, powder in the shorter one.
i leave a little extra on top of the shot one so that when tamped with my ram rod it flares out and locks it in place against the barrel. the powder one you need only enough to tear the top off without spilling powder.
loading process:
tear off folded top of of powder cartridge and pour down barrel. then push the remaining paper tube, minus the top you tore off, down and tamp in place (this is your "wad")
place shot cartridge in barrel blunt end first. it will sink until the folded end catches on the muzzle. with ram rod push down barrel and give a few light tamps. this will flare the top of the cartridge to lock it in place. (at not time is the shot cartridge torn. the ignition will do that for you)
prime and your off
loading this way is insanely fast, which is good bc they take awhile to make.
today i went through some crazy nasty cover after rabbit and none ever came loose or moved, though i checked it many times.im confident enough now to hunt without checking if it has moved.
what i noticed about this style:
no change in leading of the barrel. it is not a shot cup, and does not keep shot from rubbing on the bore
though it did produce a slightly tighter pattern in my gun, which was not my aim, as it already takes squirrels to 40 yards or so. but its nice to know it performs at least as well as my half lubed wad and shot card.
fully worth using as my kit became extremely light. i needed to carry my game bag, which i always do bc i dont like carrying rabbits in my hand while hunting, and a pan primer around my neck. no more powder horn or shot snake. i felt very free to wander and not weighted down at all.
hope this clarifies some things for guys wondering, or prompts someone who knows an easier way to manufacture to chime in.
also, if someone has a better way please do share.
so,what i have learned is to avoid is making snug fitting cartridges. anything close to bore size, upon trying to push down the barrel has always lodged somewhere before seating. ive seen where some people have the fiber wad or other wad be part of the shot cartridge. this doesn't work for me and never seats.
so i experimented and what works very simply in the field is this:
if you want iot to be more "pc" just tie with twine on both ends instead of using the glue stick.
i wrap newspaper 2 thicknesses around a slightly under bore object. in my .62 i like .58 or anything close. but not snug.
i put a strip of glue, wrap, and finish with another coat of glue on the end of the roll, so it stays put and forms a tube. then i stick the dowel or object into the tube, and form the round blunt end of the roll and glue shut. then i fill with shot or powder and glue/fold the other end.
you end up with this:
shot is in the longer one, powder in the shorter one.
i leave a little extra on top of the shot one so that when tamped with my ram rod it flares out and locks it in place against the barrel. the powder one you need only enough to tear the top off without spilling powder.
loading process:
tear off folded top of of powder cartridge and pour down barrel. then push the remaining paper tube, minus the top you tore off, down and tamp in place (this is your "wad")
place shot cartridge in barrel blunt end first. it will sink until the folded end catches on the muzzle. with ram rod push down barrel and give a few light tamps. this will flare the top of the cartridge to lock it in place. (at not time is the shot cartridge torn. the ignition will do that for you)
prime and your off
loading this way is insanely fast, which is good bc they take awhile to make.
today i went through some crazy nasty cover after rabbit and none ever came loose or moved, though i checked it many times.im confident enough now to hunt without checking if it has moved.
what i noticed about this style:
no change in leading of the barrel. it is not a shot cup, and does not keep shot from rubbing on the bore
though it did produce a slightly tighter pattern in my gun, which was not my aim, as it already takes squirrels to 40 yards or so. but its nice to know it performs at least as well as my half lubed wad and shot card.
fully worth using as my kit became extremely light. i needed to carry my game bag, which i always do bc i dont like carrying rabbits in my hand while hunting, and a pan primer around my neck. no more powder horn or shot snake. i felt very free to wander and not weighted down at all.
hope this clarifies some things for guys wondering, or prompts someone who knows an easier way to manufacture to chime in.