How iffy to buy used Flinter?

[jabberwacky]

Having just read Lakota's post about redoing his $100 TC flintlock (and will all respect to him, we don't know how it will shoot yet), I'm wondering if there isn't a project I'd like to get myself into. I've read so many posts on here about never buying a used muzzleloader, but I'd like to know if that applies even more to a flintlock. My only experience is with percussions.

I know I can buy a new GPR flint for around $400, so is it worth the risk to buy a yardsale flinter and try to rehab it? For a newbie, that is. I'm willing to read whatever it takes to work the lock, and I've been a woodworker for years, so am I getting in over my head?

jabber

 

[pbrockland]

Hey Jabber,

I don't think buying a used ML is risky at all, if you take proper precautions.
Just make sure to give the gun a good looking over before you buy, that way there are no suprises. Invest in a bore light (I found some cheap bobber lights for fishing that work great) , run a few patches down the barrel to feel for snags or bulges. If the gun is a percussion, remove the nipple and check the threads. Snap the lock a few times to check function and spring strength. Make sure the hammer stays put at half cock with a little bit of pressure.

My two cents

 

"Never" is a strong term. If you know what to look for, used MLers can be bargains. It all depends on how well taken care of they were. A common problem is that the previous owner didn't clean them well and the bore is bad--you can look into the bores with various lights--even a minimag light will work on the .45 and larger ones. Look all the way down to the breech. Run a patch on a jag down the bores and "feel" if they are smooth or rough. Pull the lock and check it out. If it is in working order and taken care of--why not? If it has a lock that is a standard available lock, replacements are easy, if it does not work--either new parts or a new lock...
[url] Ahhh...pbr[/url] beat me to it!

 

[silverfox]

If you can get a deal like lakota's I would go for it. You say you can do the wood work. These rifles are not complicated or hard to work on. just a little common sense. Look for a clean rust free barrel (inside) outside can be cleaned. On a flint if it will spark check the location of the touch hole make sure it is correct. A lot of flintlocks go on the market because the owner used the wrong powder or didn't know how to tune and load the rifle so he got either slow ignition or sporatic ignition.
If the barrel and spark look good I would buy a used gun and expect to get it working well.
Fox :thumbsup:

 

[jabberwacky]

I appreciate the wise words, guys. And you're right, of course, Mike. Never is a strong word.

I guess I sort of have this bug in me that makes me really feel good about "getting a good deal." I'm always looking bargains, but beyond that, I'm also trying to do things myself. Feeling self-sufficient is a good thing. Put the two together, and it can be a very satisfying experience. Just wanted to get it out there, so if there were any real warnings, caveats, etc., I'd be aware.

Thanks for the words of wisdom. :bow: That's why I love the forum.

jabber

 

[blacksmithman64]

I got to agree with everybody.A bore light is an essential piece of equipment,But if the owner won't let you use it I would pass on the gun,he's lookin' fer a sucker! :rotf: Also that bore light will show you what a lousy job you did cleaning!

 

[lakota]

Like everyone else said. A bore light is a must have and a tight fitting patch will reveal any rough spots in the bore. And in the case of the T/C I just finished, I figured that if it didnt shoot, I could locate a replacement barrel and still be better off than buying a new one. Luckily I did manage to get a dozen shots in with mine before the old lock gave out and it hit pretty well where I held. old T/C looked as though the previous owner didnt give a hoot about the outside appearance as the bore looked as shiny as a mirror after I swabbed the dust out of it.
All in all it was a very enjoyable and rewarding project(sure beat sitting in front of the tube on those freezing nights!)

Good luck in your quest for a fixer upper!

Scott.

 

[blacksmithman64]

My rule of thumb is if a buckskinner owned it,its probably well maintained even if beat up, like mine,now if yer gittin' it from a flatlander... :hmm:

 

First rule is Caveat Emptor--Let the buyer beware. That being said I've gotten some good buys, some great buys, and some piles of manure. I carry some patches, and oil, and my own rod with some jags, a bore light, and a nipple wrench, which I don't know why, as I have no real interest in cussin guns. But ya never know what might show up. I also carry some spare flints, and leather, a good screwdriver. Last summer I bought at auction three original guns in very poor condition (didn't need or use the kit I carry} Two were flintlock mountian rifles, the other a halfstock cussin. Off of the flintlocks, I got two late maslins of which I was able to make a good original lock. There was one 41", 38 cal. swamped barrel on the one which is now .54 cal, and 38" long. I got all the hardware off the three guns, of which I kept the hand forged set of one of the flints, and sold the rest of the hardware, a barrel and lock off the halfstock for $250. The rebore, and tang from Ed Rayl cost me $160. I have a blank stock, so when I start building this flint mountian rifle, the cost should be under $100. You do have to be able to look past some faults. I consider that a good deal, but your results may vary :haha:

Bill

I started with nothing and still have most of it left

 

[Stumpkiller]

How "iffy" to buy a used car or boat?

Look for obvious signs of neglect.

Look for abuse (loose frizzen, damaged screw heads, wrench marks on mainspring, etc.)

Look for a money back within two weeks if not satisfied or at least upon visual inspection arrangement.

 

[MSW]

well, if he can score a flinter for a hundred bucks, and he doesn't mind the risk that the thing will end up a wall hanger, the parts alone should justify the expense. having said that, i agree with Stumpkiller.