On your 2 pics of locks the flints are real different, and also sit back on the part that screws down ? (top jaw screw?), does it make a difference ? Mine (flints sent with rifle) when wrapped in 1/8" leather still has to be pulled up to come close to the ? frizzen, the flints to short?? and it (frizzen) doesnt open all the way when fired, is 5hat right :shake: Dont seem to be. Fred :hatsoff:
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How long can a flint last?
- Thread starter imfrank
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From the things Ive seen you write on here Im real intrested in whatever you have to say. Also you met a member here that builds a rifle or two that met you and if he thinks your :applause: I sure do. ( rifle building seminar at Conner Prairie I belive) Fred :hatsoff:
Fred,
My frizzen doesn't open all the way when fired about half the time. Still goes bang though. Not sure if there's a problem with that.
My frizzen doesn't open all the way when fired about half the time. Still goes bang though. Not sure if there's a problem with that.
Mike Brooks
Cannon
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Well thanks Fred. :bow: I'd go with what roundball says on this, he's the man on these flint T/C's.
If the flint is sticking into the frizzen, that is one issue.
But lots of times I have seen when they appeared to not have opened all the way, but actually they were opening all the way & bouncing back on and stopping against the frizzen.
When I think this is happening, I put my finger behind the frizzen to where it would almost stop as to make a buffer for the frizzen, then close the frizzen & fire the lock & if it is bouncing back, the frizzen will hit my finger & it will stop this from happening, repeat until I know this is the culpret, then work on that problem.
But lots of times I have seen when they appeared to not have opened all the way, but actually they were opening all the way & bouncing back on and stopping against the frizzen.
When I think this is happening, I put my finger behind the frizzen to where it would almost stop as to make a buffer for the frizzen, then close the frizzen & fire the lock & if it is bouncing back, the frizzen will hit my finger & it will stop this from happening, repeat until I know this is the culpret, then work on that problem.
On my old style TC locks, that was caused by the old style short hammer...flint hits too far down on the frizzen face to move it past it's "cam over" point on the frizzen spring. And/Or...can also be caused by a short flint that's so far away from the frizzen it has a long travel arc and hits down too low as well.Tod said:
I haven't detected any bounce back on those medium size TC locks...seems the cam over point is very strong...the only few times I've had that failure-to-open-all-the-way problem seemed to simply be the old style locks or worn, too short flints.
What has given me the absolute best performance in TC locks has been 3/4" (x 7/8") Tom Fuller black english flints...using a good piece of flint leather with a hole in the bend so the flint sits hard back against the jaw screw, bevel up, and the leading edge just barely clearing the frizzen face. As they wear shorter I sometimes flip them bevel down during a range session for longer flint life...but most often I put in a fresh flint, shoot a 50 shot session with the occasional alcohol wipe down, maybe a light tap to knapp a spot, and enjoy.
Thanks for all the good advise :bow: , I will check the hammer and frizzen closely to see what is happening. Do you think moving the flint from 1/16" to 1/8" from the frizzen would make less dammage to the flint and still give good sparks?
Frank
Frank
Ideally, at least in a TC lock, when the flint edge striks the face of the frizzen, it should be around 1/3 of the way down from the top of the frizzen, and hitting in a downward slicing/shaving angle...this way the thinnest shavings of steel are sliced off, creating the most and hottest sparks, greatest reliability, and longest flint life, etc.imfrank said:
The more "squared" off a flint is when it impacts the frizzen, the more the edge will get battered/damaged by the straight on impact, sometimes resulting in breakage, unreliable operation, frequent knapping to resharpen the edge, and shorter flint life altogether.
Walks with fire
54 Cal.
I've got 67 shots on a Tom Fuller 3/4x7/8 flint in my new style lock from TC so far and it looks like it can go a little while yet. I did knapp it just a little with a nail tool that I made after I read an article on it. I really like that nail tool because it takes off very little flint but makes it real sharp. It's a whole bunch better than doing it with a small brass hammer like I used to.
hawkeye1755
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I take the same T.Fuller flints in my large Siler Lock.I must change the flints between 70-90 shots.Walks with fire said:
:hatsoff:
I've only recently begun my journey into flinters. I have an Austin & Halleck mountain rifle. I put 3/4 x 7/8 black english flints in because TOW didn't have 3/4 x 3/4 in stock. I use lead wrap *ducks and hides* and they're lasting over 100 shots so far. I figure I could probably get a few more shots out of them when I learn to knap better, but after a few knappings and turning the flint over a few times, I retire it for a new one. If you're not using the black english flints, I'd definately give them a try.
I usually get anywhere from 60 to 100 shots from a flint, just depends on the lock & flint. I do use all Tom Fuller black English flints & I get exceptional seervice from them.
Once in a while I end up with a exceptional lock & I can't tell ya why it does so well, as you cannot SEE a dif in it, but somehow everything is just balanced perfect & they seem to shoot forever.
One of such locks is on a Fredrick Sell rifle that I built 6-7 years ago that Gabby has, & it would average about 100 shots per flint & I have notes of it getting 126 shots on one occasion. Another exceptional lock is on a .36 cal. Lancaster rifle I built & Dave K. has now. I am not sure but I am thinking he told me he has over 300 shots on 2 flints & it is still going good & and sparking good. Man, that flint must me just a nubbin by now ! :grin: .
Once in a while I end up with a exceptional lock & I can't tell ya why it does so well, as you cannot SEE a dif in it, but somehow everything is just balanced perfect & they seem to shoot forever.
One of such locks is on a Fredrick Sell rifle that I built 6-7 years ago that Gabby has, & it would average about 100 shots per flint & I have notes of it getting 126 shots on one occasion. Another exceptional lock is on a .36 cal. Lancaster rifle I built & Dave K. has now. I am not sure but I am thinking he told me he has over 300 shots on 2 flints & it is still going good & and sparking good. Man, that flint must me just a nubbin by now ! :grin: .
Birddog, that flint is just off of the jaw screw now. I have no idea how many shots it has in it now, because it just keeps firing. As a matter of fact, the flint doesn't even feel sharp. But, as long as it lights her off, I am very content. You know, this lock is so darn reliable, that I have even forgot to look at the flint other than to line it up when I clean the lock. Just thinking, I know that now I have pretty close to 400 shots on 2 flints. I was counting how many packages of ball I have shot through it. I would like to know though, WHY is this lock so much better than any other lock I have. I would duplicate it and become RICH! :winking:
I really can't tell ya what it is. I have tried taking one such as the one you have & polishing everything just exactly the same (best I could anyway) and making sure the hammer angle is the same, frizzen face angle the same, etc. Just cannot duplicate it. Can get over a hundred out of them but nothing like you have with that lock as it is definately a one of a kind.. :hmm:
