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How to cut grease notches in a ‘58 Remington cylinder pin?

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Hello all, I hope everyone is well.

I recently bought a Uberti Remington Navy .36 and have been investigating ways that people have used to keep the cylinder easily spinning through the powder fouling. I’ve read a few posts about cutting small notches along the cylinder pin to hold grease.

This seems like a good idea. I’m asking if anyone has done it and what your results were?

Thanks for your consideration.
 
I’ve been thinking about this recently myself. I don’t think the grooves have to be to deep, I was thinking of using a corner of a triangle file to create the grooves. I haven’t landed on how many grooves I will do but am thinking maybee 6 grooves in a half inch or so.
 
Hello all, I hope everyone is well.

I recently bought a Uberti Remington Navy .36 and have been investigating ways that people have used to keep the cylinder easily spinning through the powder fouling. I’ve read a few posts about cutting small notches along the cylinder pin to hold grease.

This seems like a good idea. I’m asking if anyone has done it and what your results were?

Thanks for your consideration.
I wonder if perhaps two parallel grooves offset from one another at 3 and 9 o'clock might not be a better solution for a base pin grease reservoir. This is easily accomplished in a mill or lathe with a metal slitting saw. This method I believe would leave the base pin stronger than radial cuts and would accomplish the same goal.
 
45D (Mike) has posted here about his modification which involves cutting a groove across the top of the cylinder pin at the junction of the pin and frame. A common modification among serious N-SA shooters is to fit a bushing to the cylinder which covers the cylinder/frame gap. This requires milling a notch in the frame for the bushing to fit in.
 
45D (Mike) has posted here about his modification which involves cutting a groove across the top of the cylinder pin at the junction of the pin and frame.

Thanks hawkeye2 ! Here's a pic.

20211130_121124.jpg

20211130_121021.jpg


Mike
 
I recall some time ago viewing a YouTube video on this very topic. I don't remember what channel, and it's so long ago to no longer be in my history, but it might be worth the OP's while to search YouTube for it. If I had to take a wild guess, it might have been "duelist1954" (Mike Belliveau)
 
This is not that complicated. I just used the corner of a small triangle file to put 3 very shallow groves in the pin on my Remingtons. That and Mobil 1 grease keeps the cylinder running free for the 30 shots I usually take in a session.
 
I just squirt a little Ballistol down in there periodically and all runs just fine. If I could shoot more than a dozen cylinders without fuss I’d be all ears.
 
I did a rather drastic modification on a cheap Remington repro about 40 years ago [hence the blurry picture], this pistol was an experiment, note the rear sight and the shield over the caps.
The mod is the deflector in front of the cylinder [to which it is attached], the mod also included filing part of the frame away.

I have also fitted on another Remington, an ‘O’ ring which did a good job of keeping lubricant in and fouling out.
IMG_3223.jpeg

IMG_3220.jpeg
 
I just squirt a little Ballistol down in there periodically and all runs just fine. If I could shoot more than a dozen cylinders without fuss I’d be all ears.
Me too. Ballistic or more often Moosemilk. I might be the only person alive that does a sort of cleaning every six shots. That includes cleaning the barrel with Ballistol and squirting some into the action. I'm weird that way. With rifles I clean after every shot.
 
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