how to fix a powderhorn

[4444]

I attempted my first powder horn by following Scott and Cathy Sibleys book. Went well, but the scrimeshaw didn't turn out dark enough. I think where I messed up was when I didn't add black patina to the walnut stain. I suppose the only way I could get it darker now would be to try and scrimshaw right over orginal lines and use india ink? Unless you guys have any ideas. Thanks

 

if your original lines are deep enough, you don't have to re-do them--just add ink ink to the stuff already there and buff away excess...

 

[SquirrelFlinter]

I followed the book to were you start making it look old. I rubbed over the Scrim with lead and erased the rest. Now that I am useing it is is getting dark fast.

SF

 

[4444]

Thanks for input, I believe your right, with use I think it'll darken up. Nigel

 

[Mikey the Barbarian]

One way you can 'see' if it will darken up,,,,mix a few drops of water with some blackpowder. Rub it all over the horn and take a cloth and wipe off the excess. DONT wash it off, just wipe the excess gently off and see how it did. That way is easier than having to buff a 'dye or ink' type stain off unwanted areas. Just a thought. Heck, if ya like the looks of the blackpowder mud..let it dry and seal it then. Mikey the Barbarian, otherwise known as Capt Mike

 

[4444]

Thanks, I'll give it a try. I might be out of luck though, the scrim isn't very deep and I already stained over the top to give it an antique look. But the suggestions you guys gave seem like the safest approach. Chris

 

[Black Hand]

Having stained over the top should not matter. Since the lines have been scratched into the horn, they can still be filled. However, if you have sealed the surface with wax etc., this should be removed prior to re-filling. I would suggest using India Ink, apply it with a cloth, and remove the excess with a slightly damp cloth or paper towel. After the ink dries, any additional excess should easily be removed with 0000 steel wool, which will also polish the surface of the horn. Be aware that if the surface of the horn is rough, the ink will also deposit in the texture, and will show. Once you are satisfied with the color intensity, seal the surface of the horn (I use beeswax).

 

[Mikey the Barbarian]

Black Hand, I also use bees wax as a surface sealer. After the bees was is buffed down it just gives it a mellow look that oil cant. "Caution",,if youve had powder in the horn and decide to do this, I absolve myself of any responsiblity if you hold it over a fire or whatever to warm the bees wax. Use a hair dryer to soften and then buff the wax.

 

[Black Hand]

"Caution",,if youve had powder in the horn and decide to do this, I absolve myself of any responsiblity if you hold it over a fire or whatever to warm the bees wax. Use a hair dryer to soften and then buff the wax.

I agree entirely!!!!!! If you are worried, wash out the inside with water to make sure ALL the powder is gone. I use a heat gun to soften the wax, then apply the melted wax to the horn and allow it to cool. At this point I usually buff the excess wax off with piece of canvas. I then do the final polish with a piece of leather or the palm of my hand until there is no sticky surface residual wax.

Wokrs for me and I still got all 10 fingers.