How to strengthen main spring?

[Brad Foust]

Howdy friends,
I have a replica Flint Tower Pistol that I believe is circa the late 60's. Better than most common cheap repros of this type, but not of high end custom parts like L&R, Siler, etc.
The lock's main spring is rather weak. Before attempting to make a complete new spring, it is a fairly simple looking spring. Doew anyone know any methods to add life and strength to these kind of springs???
Maybe reheat and quenching?? Any ideas that are known to work??
Thanks in advance

 

[LRB]

Best way is to heat the bend red hot, and spread the arms a tad wider, then re-heat treat. A wedge block can be set into the v to force the action arm to be stiffer, but it is risky for breaking the spring. Sometimes it works, and sometimes the spring breaks. I would not recommend it.

 

[Rifleman1776]

On some of the older El Cheapos of the past, I have wedged a piece of leather into the v of the spring. Often worked quite well. Too much and you may break the spring. But start small and work up until you run out of nerve. :shocked2: In the meantime, be shopping for a new spring.

 

[Brad Foust]

OK, thanks. Thats what I was thinking. Heat the bend red hot and widen it a little.
But then you say, "Re-heat treat"?? What does this mean?
How do I do that?
Heat the entire spring red hot and oil quench???
Would that do it??
Thanks as always

 

[thatoneguy82]

If all you do is heat it red hot and quench you'll end up with a piece of brittle, file hard metal. It must be tempered after quenching otherwise it will shatter. If you have a DGW catalogue there used to be an explanation on how to harden/ temper a spring, otherwise I am sure you can find any number of videos on youtube and write ups on how-to elsewhere.

 

[ohio ramrod]

I have good results reheatreating springs by heating red hot (until a magnet won't stick ) then oil quenching to harden. Then I temper in a molten lead bath using an electric lead pot set at the minimum temp to melt the lead. I use a steel bar to hold the spring in the lead bath for ten minutes then pull out quickly, shake off the molten lead and let air cool. :hmm:

 

[bpd303]

My method as well, only had one break out of dozens tempered that way.

 

[LRB]

1075,1080,1084,1095 Spring Steel

Quench at = 1475°/1500°
Temper heat = 700°/750°
Thin quench oil = 130°/140°

Non-magnetic temperature = 1414°
Melting temperature of lead = 625°

 

[rich pierce]

If you have no experience in hardening and tempering springs you have a good likelihood of going from a lock with a weak spring to a lock with a broken spring, or a spring that does not spring at all. Similarly blocking the bend has a chance of stressing the spring to the point of it breaking. But less of a risk in my opinion.

 

[J.D.]

You would probably be better off to fit a new spring to that lock. You may have to drill a hole for the lug and do a little file work, to fit things properly, but no heat treating is a big plus for someone who is not proficient at heat treating, especially when dealing with unknown material.