Hows this for color?

[rabjr]

Heres a lefty Isaac Haines I'm finishing up for a friend. This is after 3 coats of Nitrate of Iron stain. It's soaking in some sun after applying the 3rd coat of sealer. A beautiful chocolate brown, to bad the best of the curl was on the cheeck piece side, the other side is lacking but still looks good.

 

[Norskie]

Nitrate of Iron is similar to aquafortis, yes? If you've ever used af, how does it compare as far as ease of use?
The color certainly looks good. :thumbsup:

 

[rabjr]

I have some of Eric Kettenburgs recipe I got a few years ago from him. He has Nitrate of Iron on the bottle so I call it that. But yes it is AF I beleive. Unless I run out, this is all I'll ever use on maple. :thumbsup:

 

[Goldhunter]

I really like the color. :grin: what are you using for sealer/oil?

 

[rabjr]

I'm letting it soak up Laural Mountain sealer right now.I just ordered some of Jim Chambers stock finish, not sure yet if I'll use that or Tung oil. It's going to get a lot of use chasing white tails and he wants a satin finish nothing glossy. It's a 38" .54 cal btw and I really like the way this gun points.

 

[NORD]

I have some of Eric Kettenburgs recipe I got a few years ago from him. He has Nitrate of Iron on the bottle so I call it that. But yes it is AF I beleive. Unless I run out, this is all I'll ever use on maple. :thumbsup:

:hmm: What are you guys talking about? Why would you put nitrate of iron or AF on a stock? And what is nitrate of iron or AF? I am hoping to build a flinter possibly using maple wood but may use cherry...have used walnut in the past so I am ignorant on this whole maple thing. Thanks!

 

[rabjr]

I'm not the best one to ask Nord. But basically Iron is disolved in acid and when applyed to maple and let dry, a heat source ( I use a heat gun ) causes the iron particles to rust inside the wood, giving it color. Thats how I understand it.

 

[LRB]

AF is for Aqua Fortis, and is basicly nitric acid at a particular strength in water.

 

[NORD]

I'm not the best one to ask Nord. But basically Iron is disolved in acid and when applyed to maple and let dry, a heat source ( I use a heat gun ) causes the iron particles to rust inside the wood, giving it color. Thats how I understand it.

AF is for Aqua Fortis, and is basicly nitric acid at a particular strength in water.

Where do you buy the stuff?

 

[rabjr]

The stuff I have, I bought probably 5 years ago...or close to that. At the time he advertised it was the last he was offering for sale, have no idea if he's changed that.

There are threads explaining how to make it and I think someone just mentioned that AF is being made by a company again. Also you may want to check White Buffalos thread on vinegar stains which is simular and maybe easier for you.

 

[NORD]

Thank you very much! :hatsoff:

 

[CrackStock]

Aqua Fortis is now available from:

Mike Lea and Daughter
614 291-4757

It is a reagent stain which is daubed onto the stock; turns an ugly green until heated to blush it into color. I guarantee that it will scare you at first and you will at some point overheat some part of a stock to black before you are done with your first rifle.

I like it, but you should be aware before you use this.

CS

 

[renovato]

I'm in the same boat, Nord. I worked with maple yet either, only walnut and beech so far. I follow these threads eagerly, looking for finishing tips. This board is always full of amazing information.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

AF is for Aqua Fortis, and is basicly nitric acid at a particular strength in water.

If one runs out of AF, read the ingredients on label of Birchwood Casey Plum Brown, hmmmn, nitric acid. I tried it with washed steel wool, cut with a little distilled water, (beware of fumes and such, it works vigorously on the steel wool) worked great on scrap pieces of maple.

 

[GreyWhiskers]

Swamp Rat,

I'm likin the look of the stock. :grin: Send pics of the complete rifle when finished. GW

 

[fitter]

Swamprat, color looks good. Why not continue your
finish with the LM sealer. Will make an excellent finish.Check out John Bivins writings on finishing.The sealer is all that he used.He came up with the formula for the LM.I knew him personally and saw his results, by no means too
glossy. John was quite the deerhunter himself and was very aware of this. Good Luck. Check out the book Gunsmithing Tips and Projects.TOW has it.
You can also get it from Wolf Pub.(rifle mag.),as they published the original articles. I learned it from yacking at Friendship years ago.The good old days!!!

 

[davy]

[/quote]

Wall I dunno Swamp .. I kinda think the tiger stripes sorter clashes with the green fender! :hmm: :rotf:

Davy

 

[NORD]

Thank you for the contact information CrackStock! :hatsoff:

 

[rabjr]

Thanks fitter, I didn't realize that. :hmm: I'll see what it looks like after it's done soaking in all it will take.

Davy, I knew somebody would notice that. :haha:

 

[shmrck1]

Swamp Rat,
VERY NICE!!!
snake-eyes :applause: :hatsoff: