I Have A Functional Rifle!

[Valkyrie]

Over a year ago I purchased parts to build my first rifle. Not a kit, everything A La Cart. I wanted something that I just couldn’t buy and that would be uniquely mine.

Anyway, I ran into a couple issues with the preinlet stock. The lock mortise was cut a little too deep. The barrel channel was horridly inconsistent. By the time I got it to work I had to use bedding epoxy to repair the lock mortise area as the barrel and breech plug area was cut through the barrel channel into the mortise area. I know long story but I got it repaired rather than ordering a new stock. Then the barrel channel had such problems that I had to fill in some areas with bedding compound also.

Anyways I got frustrated and shelved it a year ago. Just figured I would sell the parts and be done with it. But then I started thinking about it last week. I went back at it and realized I had a lot of wood to work with and my repairs are just fine, functional and invisible. So I finished the lock inletting and the trigger mechanism. But then, I got my drill and taps mixed up and drilled one hole for the lock for a 10-32 lock bolt, which I had only one 10-32 lock bolt! Realized my mistake since I had 8-32 lock bolts on hand after I tapped it with a 10-32 tap. So I drilled the other hole to 8-32 and tapped it so could at least assemble the rifle for trigger fitting. I ordered new 10-32 lock bolts and that’s what I’ll use on the finished rifle.

The trigger work gave me fits. The preinlet made it so the trigger assembly had to have the base plate bent to match the stock wrist contour, adjust the set trigger height and spring so it would clear the lock bar, take a little bit of metal from the lock bar to help in that but finally got it working and firing nicely. It’s a Siler large lock. It’s the one that’s tuned up from the factory. The flint is about a1/4 inch from the frizzen face at half **** and at full **** it has a pretty good space to swing.

Anyways I have a functioning rifle!!Now the fittings and stock work. Wish me luck!!

 

[64Springer]

Your...post...is...missing...something...

8 letters. Starts with P.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Is the trigger a set trigger assembly, or a single simple trigger? If a set trigger the geometry of the catch hook and springs makes heating and bending it very precarious. (Note; Disassemble the whole mechanism before you heat and bend it. Heat can ruin springs!). If you bend it too much the hook won't engage the set trigger. You can bend it some, but not a lot. Fortunately, there's enough meat on the trigger plate that you can position it, and file away a lot of it to get to your contour.

My experience with pre-carves is that most of them come with VERY thick webs, which isn't that conducive to building a very slim rifle. You can get it thinner by taking a lot of wood out below the ram rod, but that can be something of a "pucker factor" endeavor. Go too far and you break through. I suggest you find that thinness by inletting your front foot of the trigger guard until it breaks through slightly. Then you'll know how much wood you can remove on the lower fore stock. The shape of the tail on your entry pipe will determine how much wood you'll need to keep there..

 

[Valkyrie]

Is the trigger a set trigger assembly, or a single simple trigger? If a set trigger the geometry of the catch hook and springs makes heating and bending it very precarious. (Note; Disassemble the whole mechanism before you heat and bend it. Heat can ruin springs!). If you bend it too much the hook won't engage the set trigger. You can bend it some, but not a lot. Fortunately, there's enough meat on the trigger plate that you can position it, and file away a lot of it to get to your contour.

My experience with pre-carves is that most of them come with VERY thick webs, which isn't that conducive to building a very slim rifle. You can get it thinner by taking a lot of wood out below the ram rod, but that can be something of a "pucker factor" endeavor. Go too far and you break through. I suggest you find that thinness by inletting your front foot of the trigger guard until it breaks through slightly. Then you'll know how much wood you can remove on the lower fore stock. The shape of the tail on your entry pipe will determine how much wood you'll need to keep there..

It is a set trigger assembly. I don’t mess with bending the area where the triggers are pinned but rather the free ends of the base plate i bent so I didn’t mess up the geometry. Didn’t need to heat it. It moved fairly easy with a brass hammer in a vise.

Everything is set up pretty good now. Appreciate the advice. I am trying to be very slow and deliberate with what I do. I know I’ll make mistakes but everything I have studied suggests that is inevitable and seems that most anything can be repaired or made to disappear.

If I ever build another, and I likely will, lol, I think I’ll just go with a stock that is not cut for the lock mortise, just a barrel channel. And I will also build the trigger assembly from individual parts so I don’t have to monkey around the wood that is already cut.

 

[BillKilgore]

Congrats. It is a great feeling when you take the first shot with a rifle you built.

 

[deermanok]

Where's the pictures?

 

[Col. Batguano]

Out of curiosity, are the triggers at all "rattly" (side to side ) on their pins?

That's a good move. Getting a barrel inlet is one thing, but a barrel AND lock inlet means they have to pretty much stay where they are. Most pre-carves, as they come, come with webs around 1/4" thick, which is thicker than what they should be for MOST (not all) builds. Inletting a lock isn't all that hard. You can usually get it done in an afternoon or about 3-4 hours if you take your time. A lot of guys are way faster than that.

I personally like slim looking guns, and swamped barrels. For those a web of ~1/16" in the back, and 5/32" in the front can make all the difference between getting a svelte looking (thin web) gun, and one that looks "heavy" (thicker webbed gun). If the lock is already inlet then you're stuck. If it's not, then you can lower the barrel in the barrel channel to get it to where you want it. Then use a #6 bolt in the rear, and #8 in the front for the lock. YOu can file a groove in the barrel for the lock bolt if you need to, and there are some tricks you can use when drilling it that will help keep the bit in the wood rather than meandering to where there isn't any.

 

[ronaldrothb49]

You have the wrong size flint. At half **** the flint should just clear the frizzen.

 

[Valkyrie]

You have the wrong size flint. At half **** the flint should just clear the frizzen.

It’s the same flint I use in another gun with the same size lock. This lock is the Siler Deluxe that has a “taller hammer” etc.

The flint is the ToW flints for a large Siler.

 

[Valkyrie]

Out of curiosity, are the triggers at all "rattly" (side to side ) on their pins?

That's a good move. Getting a barrel inlet is one thing, but a barrel AND lock inlet means they have to pretty much stay where they are. Most pre-carves, as they come, come with webs around 1/4" thick, which is thicker than what they should be for MOST (not all) builds. Inletting a lock isn't all that hard. You can usually get it done in an afternoon or about 3-4 hours if you take your time. A lot of guys are way faster than that.

I personally like slim looking guns, and swamped barrels. For those a web of ~1/16" in the back, and 5/32" in the front can make all the difference. If the lock is already inlet then you're stuck. If it's not, then you can lower the barrel in the barrel channel to get it to where you want it. Then use a #6 bolt in the rear, and #8 in the front for the lock. YOu can file a groove in the barrel for the lock bolt if you need to, and there are some tricks you can use when drilling it that will help keep the bit in the wood rather than meandering to where there isn't any.

It’s a very steep learning curve. Yes the triggers to wobble side to side. Not a lot but it’s there. One thing that is bugging me is that the main trigger needs to go to its furthest travel to engage the sear. I may buy a new one and file it to engage the sear bar better.

 

[TDM]

Photos would be appreciated.

 

[ronaldrothb49]

It’s the same flint I use in another gun with the same size lock. This lock is the Siler Deluxe that has a “taller hammer” etc.

The flint is the ToW flints for a large Siler.

There are large siler locks which use a 3/4" flint. then there are deluxe large siler locks which use a 7/8" flint because of the taller hammer.

 

[Valkyrie]

There are large siler locks which use a 3/4" flint. then there are deluxe large siler locks which use a 7/8" flint because of the taller hammer.

I’m using the 3/4 x 7/8” flints. The deluxe locks are made like this.

 

[Valkyrie]

Where's the pictures?

I’ll get some up tomorrow.

 

[ronaldrothb49]

I’m using the 3/4 x 7/8” flints. The deluxe locks are made like this.

You don't believe me go to Chambers web site they make the lock

 

[Valkyrie]

You don't believe me go to Chambers web site they make the lock

I’m confused. I’m not understanding what you mean? I am using the 7/8 x 3/4” flints? There is about a 1/4” clearance from the frizzen face to the flint.

 

[ORBushman]

 

[oldwood]

Unz guys is funny , I like it!!!

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Over a year ago I purchased parts to build my first rifle. Not a kit, everything A La Cart. I wanted something that I just couldn’t buy and that would be uniquely mine.

Anyway, I ran into a couple issues with the preinlet stock. The lock mortise was cut a little too deep. The barrel channel was horridly inconsistent. By the time I got it to work I had to use bedding epoxy to repair the lock mortise area as the barrel and breech plug area was cut through the barrel channel into the mortise area. I know long story but I got it repaired rather than ordering a new stock. Then the barrel channel had such problems that I had to fill in some areas with bedding compound also.

Anyways I got frustrated and shelved it a year ago. Just figured I would sell the parts and be done with it. But then I started thinking about it last week. I went back at it and realized I had a lot of wood to work with and my repairs are just fine, functional and invisible. So I finished the lock inletting and the trigger mechanism. But then, I got my drill and taps mixed up and drilled one hole for the lock for a 10-32 lock bolt, which I had only one 10-32 lock bolt! Realized my mistake since I had 8-32 lock bolts on hand after I tapped it with a 10-32 tap. So I drilled the other hole to 8-32 and tapped it so could at least assemble the rifle for trigger fitting. I ordered new 10-32 lock bolts and that’s what I’ll use on the finished rifle.

The trigger work gave me fits. The preinlet made it so the trigger assembly had to have the base plate bent to match the stock wrist contour, adjust the set trigger height and spring so it would clear the lock bar, take a little bit of metal from the lock bar to help in that but finally got it working and firing nicely. It’s a Siler large lock. It’s the one that’s tuned up from the factory. The flint is about a1/4 inch from the frizzen face at half **** and at full **** it has a pretty good space to swing.

Anyways I have a functioning rifle!!Now the fittings and stock work. Wish me luck!!

I've built over 200 rifles and muskets. Some seem to just snap together, some don't. Sounds like yours is the latter. I just finished one for a fella' which had a walnut stock. The guy bough the kit from Pecatonica. I reckon he thought he would sit in front of the TV and put it together. EEEHHHHH. Not happening. When I received it, he did some damage, however non not fixable. Same issues. Biggest issue was the stock was so dry. This rifle gave me fits the entire build. IMHO, ever since **** turned Pecatonica over to his son, The wood, cut and inletting quality has gone way down. Semper Fi.

 

[Valkyrie]

Mine is from ToW but I read they source theirs from Pecatonica also.