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I Hope To Meet With Lead Casting Folks

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Based on what Rifleman1776 said about "stir and skim the melted lead frequently", I am going to
look for videos, to specifically see what the visual is, regarding what we SEE when we need to SKIM.
Crud and gunk will form on the surface of the melted lead in the pot after a little while. You want to skim the solids chunks off the top and you will be left with a shiny molten lead liquid surface.

Before skimming:
image_2022-07-16_175437620.png

After skimming: (not perfectly skimmed but this is the general look you want.)
1658012107593.png
 
Well, Ive learned something ALREADY ! Here I'd been of the belief
that there were other metals mixed in for our flintlock projectiles!
Smoothbores are not as picky, but you need the softness for rifle ball or conicals to work right
For hunting all projectile as slow. So one doesn’t get the shock of high velocity. Soft lead deforms easier at low velocity and delivers up its energy better
 
I do not have a thermometer but since I usually am casting big round balls or boolits I tend to run pretty hot. This leads to the molds (Lee aluminum) getting pretty hot. So, I run two molds a session. When the puddle on the sprue starts taking too long to cool I dump the ball(s) and set that mold aside (opened) to cool and start in with the other one. I am using lead roof boots salvaged from reroof projects. They are usually free for the asking although I have sometimes swapped ice and Pepsi to hard working, hot roofers.

Only thing I can add that I have not seen mentioned (sorry if I missed it) is to smoke your molds before starting. I used to do it with a lighter or match but have found that just holding the mold over the propane burner seems to do as well.
I too have been casting for near fifty years. Never have had a thermometer. Ball has been cast before guns were invented, and a long time before thermometers were invented.
If you drop ball with wrinkles and spots it’s too cold. If the ball is frosty it’s too hot
Taint rocket science ( well yeah I guess it is related)
 
2FFF89FC-A902-45EB-864B-289B43B2C5A5.jpeg
Here is a set up I’ve used to cast many round balls. Mold, leather gloves, steel sauce pan gravy ladle and table spoons, safety glasses and Coleman camp stove. I do it out doors or in an open garage. I wear a cotton long sleeve shirt and blue jeans and leather shoes. Keep water away from molten lead. Nothing fancy is needed although I also now have a Lyman electric pot and pouring ladle. Be safe and have fun. Also the wood stick is for tapping the sprue cutter.
 
You can overthink casting, I have been doing it for almost 50 years, at first on the kitchen stove and later on a Coleman camp stove which I still use now. My stove won't get too hot and I have to put up the wind shields in the winter or it won't get hot enough, I cast just outside my shops rolling door.

casting bullets 001.JPG
 
A good thing about lead casting is your material (lead) does not go bad after it is poured. So practice when you first get started. Pour up the mold several times and put the balls back into the pot. Nothing lost! After several times doing this you will start to develop what works best for your particular set up.
 
this is just me personally…. Before the internet people just did what they did. I’ve used wheel weights…. And just about anything that would melt. Never had an issue…. Ever. Now the internet says don’t. And I’m absolutely not saying for good reason. And now I use pure lead when I can find it. I would follow the folks that have been leaving very good advice. All I’m saying is…. Before the information highway… it was just so simple. LOL!!
 
View attachment 150172Here is a set up I’ve used to cast many round balls. Mold, leather gloves, steel sauce pan gravy ladle and table spoons, safety glasses and Coleman camp stove. I do it out doors or in an open garage. I wear a cotton long sleeve shirt and blue jeans and leather shoes. Keep water away from molten lead. Nothing fancy is needed although I also now have a Lyman electric pot and pouring ladle. Be safe and have fun. Also the wood stick is for tapping the sprue cutter.
I processed many a batch of range lead into clean ingots using just such a set up. An enameled cast iron cooking pot picked up at a thrift shop served well. I still process scrap lead using an open burner but now use electric pots for casting bullets and round balls.

As to fluxing. I’ve used a commercial flux from Midway but stopped as the last plastic jar of the stuff seems to rust the pot and implements terrible. It’s incredibly hygroscopic as well.
 
Fluxing, I use bee's wax, it smokes when you first out it in, after that stir a bit and pour or dip. I done both but I prefer a bottom pour, I use a Lyman pot, Got mine from a fishing supply house, all the dealers, midway ect were out and cost was higher
As pure as possible. New barrel will handle harder lead but use a smaller mold and heaver patching material . I don't have a temperature gage, pre heat mold, I put mine on top of melt pot while it's warming up, first half dozen go back into pot until mold is hot enough.
Wear safety glasses and as mentioned closed shoes

Damn, so many mispelling with my large fingers
 
As I said before casting round ball is not complicated. I first melt and clean my lead in a separate pot then pour the CLEAN lead into muffin tins. I then put the CLEAN lead in my casting pot. This set-up is a turkey fryer with a high out-put propane regulator hooked up to a 20# propane tank and a steel wok. No smart A$$ answers necessary
P1010086.JPG
P1010088.JPG
 
A NOTE ,"BE SAFE" ware safety glass's. heat resistant gloves when working with "HOT" lead, a good leather apron, pants, Work shoes, leather, not sneakers, thermometer, helps to know temp 700 to 850 F and do work in open air, not in closed area, lead fumes :ghostly:
Using the equipment we use, we'll likely never get lead hot enough to 'fume'. If you smell something, it's impurities or flux.
Lead melts at 621°F. Fumes are released at 900°F+.
You're more likely to ingest lead from not washing your hands.
 

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