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I predict dualist1954 original 1851 Colt will not cap jam.

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I think you’re right. In one of his videos about modifying Piettas, he said that the originals were made to much better tolerances and with smoother actions than today’s replicas, so cap jams were less of an issue.
 
With Slixshot nipples using Remington #10 caps (important) and a cap rake make cap jams are a seldom thing.
. Water table jams are not usual but that is where they will occur. Other caps do not work well on Slixshot nipples. and believe me I have tried CCI#11 and RWS 1075 and found they do not work.
Hold Center
Bunk
 
I’ve had pretty good luck with my new Pietta Navy so far with the factory nipples. I think it’s because I’m currently shooting a very light load of 20 grains fffg. I’m sure a heavier charge would increase blowback a bit. I need to order some Slix-Shot nipples.
 
He posted on Facebook that the video has been delayed a bit due to a copyright issue over music. I’m looking forward to seeing what happens.
 
My cure for cap jams and fouling/cap fragments falling into the works and jamming up thee gun...
20200529_211958.jpg

Its a cap rake and hammer sheild.
 
Sorry i meant cap POST, not rake. I use aftermarket nipples mainly for fitment issues ...but stock nipples will work just as good if you can figure out the fitment issies they have. Usually you can shorten the cone to allow the cap to fall lower on the taper for a tighter fit.
 
I think Mike has great videos with lots of helpful info. Im sure lots of black powder enthusiasts would agree that hes a wealth of information. I dont worship him and dont know anyone who really does...but he is a man well deserved of positive reviews, and we support him with them. I dont think it would count or be considered as "worshiping".
 
I drill and tap and then use a stainless screw. I also have thin diameter plain stainless rods that i tap screw threads on and use that instead of a screw. Just depends on the gun. I dont stop there though, i also adjust the cam and bolt legs for utilize more of the downward force of the hammers mainspring, and i also remove the flat stamped steel bolt/trigger spring and put in a two part torsion wire spring for the trigger and bolt, each get their own spring. Then i replace the flat steel spring on the hand and install a round wire spring that can easily be replaced if it ever breaks...which i havent had one break nor have any customers told me theirs have broken. I call it a "forever" hand. The flat hand springs break and sometimes you can insert a replacement with a peice of bobby pin, but its such a hassle and its hard to get it squeezed into the slot, not to mention its overly stiff (all the internal springs on these guns are) and is most likely going to break again. Most people just replace the entire hand and have to go through the trouble of refitting and timing the gun. Such a pain. The "forever" hand is very sturdy and if it ever needs replacement its simple. I **** my guns all day long and not worru about springs breaking, the only spring that can break is the mainspring and that is easily replaced. The way i set the guns up the hammer pull is very light, almost like using an aftermarket light weight competition spring, but its stock and it has the full force of a stock spring to guarantee ignition.
 
I think Mike has great videos with lots of helpful info. Im sure lots of black powder enthusiasts would agree that hes a wealth of information. I dont worship him and dont know anyone who really does...but he is a man well deserved of positive reviews, and we support him with them. I dont think it would count or be considered as "worshiping".
----OH SIR MIKE, Master of the Southwest Quadrant of the Universe, Rectifier of our countless misdeeds in the realms of the sixgun (and other beauties) Please accept our humble, oil stained and smoke filled entreaties; WE DO IT ALL FOR YOU!
 

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