Ignition Problems – No I idea what I am doing!!! Please help!

[waksupi]

Glad you like the truth, as it makes things simpler. I am rather disappointed in your vehicle choices, as I expected better. In my professional career in automotive component and system manufacturing, I spent untold hours on both scheduled and unscheduled scheduled calls and in person visits with most all of the major automotive manufacturers.

Generally Lexus was notorious for drivetrain issues, particularly in any vehicle with automatic transmissions, along with water leaks into the interior, timing chain cover oil leaks, etc.

Dodge Ram issues are too many to get them all, though the highway ‘death wobble’ was one of my favorites. But it was also hard to ignore the transmission leaks, TCMs giving up the ghost and rough shifting to name few. No need to mention the timing chain slipping, coolant and oil cooler leaks and the eTorque engine stalling. The least common denominator for these and other manufacturers was their goal to get through the warranty period so the required expensive repairs would be the responsibility of the current vehicle owner.

Basically junk vehicles, but I guess you are still learning there might be better things to drive… curious what you will purchase next.

Now let’s go back to assisting the OP solving their issues with their their gun, but maybe stopping short of suggesting getting a different gun. I never found true gunsmiths gun builders to align with the it’s junk so toss it and replace it crowd. They make things work.

Thank you very much for posting this. Lexus is listed in the top of customer satisfaction, and the Ram is one of the most used trucks in the country. I've never had a break down on either, new tires being the only thing they have ever needed.
If this is your supposed expertise, I would surely take any suggestions you have on muzzle loaders as a worthwhile opinion to ignore. You are probably the guy at NAPA that wants to know what year and color the car is for a new windshield wiper.

 

[bldtrailer]

If you find the lock is the weak part you can call Brad at cabin creek in Pa he is the lock Dr . Brad told me he's been fixing those locks for years
Phone (717) 757-5841


[email protected]

 

[bldtrailer]

PS I thought this forum was about muzzleloaders and helping a NEW shooter not truck/car bashing ( or flinter bashing )

 

[SDSmlf]

I've never had a break down on either

That was my point. A lot of folks shoot lower price point guns without issue. These are what they are willing to spend money on and enjoy.

If this is your supposed expertise

Not my area of expertise. Though it was my job to sit in on weekly customer meetings going over their warranty issues ranked by frequently, particularly the walk homes, as corrective actions were identified and prioritized. What I stated were facts data points provided by the manufacturers themselves, not my opinions.

Back to the OP, the suggestion by @bldtrailer a few posts back to contact Cabin Creek Muzzleloading for assistance with the lock is a good place to start.

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

Thanks guys, the vids on the flints and pan were very helpful, I have been experiencing some of the very things in the vid without understand why or what to do, now I have to spend time experimenting, Thanks!!!!

BTW: I am a firm believer that a new driver's first car should NOT be a Vette. I believe in learning on a beater, and once you develop skills and gain knowledge, only then should a person upgrade. An experienced driver knows what he wants in a car/truck and can target the one that suits his needs best. If you don't know anything about trucks, how can you possibly know which is best for you? Listen to a salesman???

I bought this used rifle at a reasonable price, and when I sell it I'll get most f my $ back. (Most of the used guns purchased I sold for more than I paid.)

If this turns out to be as much fun as I hope, I will definitely be looking to upgrade, to a solid shooter, I have no interest in safe queens.

As far as cars, this nice girl hit 195 at 2024 land speed trials, with 2 bad injectors. Hopefully it is fixed and ready for a shot at 200 next July.

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

This helps me understand, thanks. The patent breech complicates it a bit, I'm thinking now that it is clean and dry, and I'll tap the barrel a bit to get the powder down the smaller dia hole in the breech plug I'll have better luck. Picking a hole in the main charge and the shallow primer charge now makes a lot of sense! Thanks!

Forecast for the next couple days is good, I hope to try again!

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

Here’s a short and poor video of me putting an edge on a homemade flint. Like gun cleaning and patch lube, there’s several different ways to do it. This works for me.
View attachment 377968

Thanks, but now I'm confused. Some guys are saying it should be sharp enough to cut, but doesn't chipping the edge make it blunt?

 

[Snooterpup]

Thanks, but now I'm confused. Some guys are saying it should be sharp enough to cut, but doesn't chipping the edge make it blunt?

Nope. Done correctly pressure flakes flint off the opposite side that is being pushed on. The goal is to have a sharp edge on the flint that scrapes off minuscule particles of hot steel (sparks) that cause ignition. If you live near St. Paul, MN I’d be glad to help you.
The best thing you could do is to find someone that actively uses their flintlock and learn from them. Sometimes internet information can cause confusion.

 

[Banjoman]

Thanks, but now I'm confused. Some guys are saying it should be sharp enough to cut, but doesn't chipping the edge make it blunt?

Nope. It basically chips off knife edge (don’t know better way to describe it) pieces leaving a knife edge. If you can find some videos on YouTube about flint or arrow head making, it would probably make more sense

 

[Banjoman]

If you zoom in on the video I posted you can see the sharp pieces coming off

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

With great optimism I gave another try today. Bore and patent chamber cleaned with alcohol and dried. Poured in the first charge and tapped the barrel couple time with a piece of wood, then loaded the ball. When I opened the frizzen and the pan was full! Apparently everything was nice and clean and the main charge poured right into the pan!. I picked the hole and shot, nice fast lock time.

Second shot, I skipped the tapping, shot fine.

3rd shot, flash and no bang. I picked the hole and same thing. Tried couple more times tapping the barrel (I pick before each attempt), no bang. I removed the lock and touch hole screw and the chamber looked full of powder. I cleaned the touchhole screw and got it to fire after a couple more tries.

Next load I poured the powder, tapped, loaded, then checked the pan, maybe a couple flakes came through. I primed and got flash no bang 3 more times. Then I poured a pile of powder against the hole and pushed some in with the pick, it fired.

Next, I (as always) picked the hole, poured the charge and tapped the barrel. I am unable to get any flakes to come through the hole into the pan. Apparently the chamber is crudding up rather quickly.

I removed the touchhole screw and poured in some powder, it would shake out the screw hole if I tapped it, like pepper.

Possible next steps:

Remove chamber plug and clean. (Is it removable? Just unscrew?)
Polish pan, maybe deepen.

 

[SDSmlf]

Possible next steps:

Remove chamber plug and clean. (Is it removable? Just unscrew?)
Polish pan, maybe deepen.

Removing the breech plug is not a good idea unless you know what you are doing and have the correct tools. Your breech looks something like the photograph below, but without a drum (drawing is of a percussion setup). You may be able to get things cleaned out better by flushing water through the chamber and out through the touchhole liner threads, though it’s kind of messy without removing the barrel from the stock or have a ‘special’ attachment or tool capture the water, something similar to those in the second photograph. They thread into barrel with the liner removed and allow you to flush the breech out without soaking the stock. Another option that I believe was previously mentioned in this thread was to use a small caliber brush maybe with a patch over it (start with something under 25 caliber so it doesn’t get stuck) to clean that reduced diameter in the breech plug.

While some will say it’s not necessary, consider opening up the touch a bit, say to 5/64” (.078”) to get more heat to the main powder charge, as touch liners are cheap and easily replaced if you don’t care for the enlarged touchhole.

Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[Banjoman]

Once you get it figured out, you’ll throw rocks at percussion guns!

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

Removing the breech plug is not a good idea unless you know what you are doing and have the correct tools. Your breech looks something like the photograph below, but without a drum (drawing is of a percussion setup). You may be able to get things cleaned out better by flushing water through the chamber and out through the touchhole liner threads, though it’s kind of messy without removing the barrel from the stock or have a ‘special’ attachment or tool capture the water, something similar to those in the second photograph. They thread into barrel with the liner removed and allow you to flush the breech out without soaking the stock. Another option that I believe was previously mentioned in this thread was to use a small caliber brush maybe with a patch over it (start with something under 25 caliber so it doesn’t get stuck) to clean that reduced diameter in the breech plug.
View attachment 378545View attachment 378554
While some will say it’s not necessary, consider opening up the touch a bit, say to 5/64” (.078”) to get more heat to the main powder charge, as touch liners are cheap and easily replaced if you don’t care for the enlarged touchhole.

Keep us posted on your progress.

I put a wrench on the breech plug, it's not coming out easy so I'm just going to leave it.

Removed the barrel and gave the bore a good hot soapy mop, then put a soapy patch on a .30 brush and cleaned the chamber, then flushed lots of hot water both ways. I drilled out a 5mm screw that fits the hole for the touchhole screw so I can flush from the breech. Got couple small black chunks out, hopefully that is it.

 

[snakebit]

With great optimism I gave another try today. Bore and patent chamber cleaned with alcohol and dried. Poured in the first charge and tapped the barrel couple time with a piece of wood, then loaded the ball. When I opened the frizzen and the pan was full! Apparently everything was nice and clean and the main charge poured right into the pan!. I picked the hole and shot, nice fast lock time.

Second shot, I skipped the tapping, shot fine.

3rd shot, flash and no bang. I picked the hole and same thing. Tried couple more times tapping the barrel (I pick before each attempt), no bang. I removed the lock and touch hole screw and the chamber looked full of powder. I cleaned the touchhole screw and got it to fire after a couple more tries.

Next load I poured the powder, tapped, loaded, then checked the pan, maybe a couple flakes came through. I primed and got flash no bang 3 more times. Then I poured a pile of powder against the hole and pushed some in with the pick, it fired.

Next, I (as always) picked the hole, poured the charge and tapped the barrel. I am unable to get any flakes to come through the hole into the pan. Apparently the chamber is crudding up rather quickly.

I removed the touchhole screw and poured in some powder, it would shake out the screw hole if I tapped it, like pepper.

Possible next steps:

Remove chamber plug and clean. (Is it removable? Just unscrew?)
Polish pan, maybe deepen.

Not sure if you mentioned it before, what powder are you using?

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

Analyzing everything, I think gunk is the most likely cause. When I first got it, I removed the barrel and did a thorough clean then oil it worked fine for maybe 20rds, then cleaned oiled again. 2nd time out, everything fine for another 20rds or so, then clean and oil.

3rd time out I had a bunch of probs, then again today. I think I gunked it all up and hopeflully it's fixed now. I will leave it dry and try again tomorrow. Banjoman has been beating me up about no oil, so I have high hopes for tomorrow.

If it wasn't for the help you guys have been giving me, this rifle would be at the bottom of the pond by now! (Just kidding, the ice is way too thick! )

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

Not sure if you mentioned it before, what powder are you using?

3f for both.

 

[SDSmlf]

Analyzing everything, I think gunk is the most likely cause. When I first got it, I removed the barrel and did a thorough clean then oil it worked fine for maybe 20rds, then cleaned oiled again. 2nd time out, everything fine for another 20rds or so, then clean and oil.

3rd time out I had a bunch of probs, then again today. I think I gunked it all up and hopeflully it's fixed now. I will leave it dry and try again tomorrow. Banjoman has been beating me up about no oil, so I have high hopes for tomorrow.

If it wasn't for the help you guys have been giving me, this rifle would be at the bottom of the pond by now! (Just kidding, the ice is way too thick! )

Do you have a steam cleaner? You may be surprised at how much gunk a steam cleaner will get out of a ‘clean’ barrel.

When done cleaning, maybe take a peak with a borescope if you have one.

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

Do you have a steam cleaner? You may be surprised at how much gunk a steam cleaner will get out of a ‘clean’ barrel.

When done cleaning, maybe take a peak with a borescope if you have one.

I have a ebay $10 borescope, good for HVAC vents, not great for barrels, very low res, I need to look for real one! No steam cleaner, just hot water and 100psi air.

 

[Snooterpup]

With great optimism I gave another try today. Bore and patent chamber cleaned with alcohol and dried. Poured in the first charge and tapped the barrel couple time with a piece of wood, then loaded the ball. When I opened the frizzen and the pan was full! Apparently everything was nice and clean and the main charge poured right into the pan!. I picked the hole and shot, nice fast lock time.

Second shot, I skipped the tapping, shot fine.

3rd shot, flash and no bang. I picked the hole and same thing. Tried couple more times tapping the barrel (I pick before each attempt), no bang. I removed the lock and touch hole screw and the chamber looked full of powder. I cleaned the touchhole screw and got it to fire after a couple more tries.

Next load I poured the powder, tapped, loaded, then checked the pan, maybe a couple flakes came through. I primed and got flash no bang 3 more times. Then I poured a pile of powder against the hole and pushed some in with the pick, it fired.

Next, I (as always) picked the hole, poured the charge and tapped the barrel. I am unable to get any flakes to come through the hole into the pan. Apparently the chamber is crudding up rather quickly.

I removed the touchhole screw and poured in some powder, it would shake out the screw hole if I tapped it, like pepper.

Possible next steps:

Remove chamber plug and clean. (Is it removable? Just unscrew?)
Polish pan, maybe deepen.

Be sure to wipe the frizzen face off with a clean ungreased patch after firing. Do not wipe the frizzen face with your finger. Oils and fouling crud can easily cause a misfire, particularly if there is significant moisture in the air. Please abandon the thought of removing the breech.
Best left to a gunsmith or very experienced person with the proper tools and jigs.
If you wish to use a brush be certain to use the type that are looped through the attachment, NOT the swedged type. See photo below.