Ignition
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Patocazador
54 Cal.
I have one on a sidelock and it works great. However, the 209 primer fouls the entrance to the drum and has to be cleaned out good after 6-10 shots. I use Hoppe's #9.
Can you just change to a bigger nipple that takes a musket cap and use those?
The problem is such varying temps and humidity. It's the moisture that is having adverse effect on the primer. Like it might be cold in morning, 20s, 30s, but even though there is humidity the cold makes it dryer than by noon it's 50s. By then there has been so much change that even slight condensation either renders primer bad or just enough moisture in entrance that the primer can't provide enough heat. So either the primer pops and no bang, which has happened no matter how many primers I try and wind up having to remove nipple and prime the entrance, then get hesitation or primer so affected by moisture it doesn't pop but even next primer pops but still no bang. It is a minute amount but causes extreme havoc. Ive not had this problem with my inline with 209 and believe it is the amount and volume of heat supplied that conquers the moisture.
Tell me please.
Do you use an oil as a preservative when not using the gun?
Do you use an oil as a preservative when not using the gun?
Switch to flintlocks
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Sounds as though you're using the wrong 209s. There are versions built waterproof for wet weather and the cold, and I'm here to tell you that they work a treat in my modern reloading for just those conditions. I can't see a reason in the world they'd suddenly have problems in a muzzleloader.
The problem primer is the #11. Switching to 209 so solve problem.
L
Ight oil for storage but clean before use.
Depending exactly on how you clean before use the oil could be the real problem!
Been there done that so no oil goes near my cappers any more!
I have used my cappers in pouring rain the water dripping off the capped nipple when the gun is propped against a tree ect but never has it failed to fire but the slightest hint of oil and it's flame out.
The only other possible issue is with substitute powders, they are a little more difficult to ignite and often need a nipple opened to .040".
Hope this helps.
B.
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I'm curious which gun you're talking about, what powder you're using, and especially a description of your cleaning.
I've seen zackly your problems in guns with buildup of hard fouling in the breech. In fact I spent a whopping $100 on my favorite 58 caliber, a short-barrel TC Hawken built around a custom barrel. The owner was frustrated because of poor ignition even after switching to musket caps.
I scraped a good tablespoon full of hard fouling (just like coal) from the breech, removed the musket nipple and went back to #11 Primers. In 10 years of steady use since then it has never misfired once, in spite of our soggy climate by the sea (90" of rain a year).
I've seen zackly your problems in guns with buildup of hard fouling in the breech. In fact I spent a whopping $100 on my favorite 58 caliber, a short-barrel TC Hawken built around a custom barrel. The owner was frustrated because of poor ignition even after switching to musket caps.
I scraped a good tablespoon full of hard fouling (just like coal) from the breech, removed the musket nipple and went back to #11 Primers. In 10 years of steady use since then it has never misfired once, in spite of our soggy climate by the sea (90" of rain a year).
Don’t see humidity and temperature changes getting moisture in the nipple or clean fire channel. Where do you live? I live in North Carolina and temperature swings with high humidity is just how it is - see screenshot of Whether Channel’s latest forecast.
Now, if it’s raining, one drop in the nipple can ruin your day, but you don’t mention rain. Other and most likely cause is moisture or crud from your cleaning process. The only fail to fire I remember having while hunting was after cleaning my gun with cool water at the insistence of those in camp to avoid flash rust. Loaded up the next morning and got nothing when the time came to squeeze the trigger. I now only use very hot water when in camp or plan on loading soon after cleaning. Threat of flash rust vs misfire....
Curious about your cleaning procedure.
Please explain in more detail. It sounds like you might have a mechanical problem. or contaminated caps.
Missed the ‘failed to pop’ comment. Would look at condition of nipple. Is it mushroomed and not allowing the cap to fully seat? Also, no mention of or I missed it, but what powder are you using?
There are many things that could be causing his problem.
Step 1. is proper identification of the problem.
Step 2. is a solution.
Switching to a 209 prime is almost never a solution to a muzzleloading problem. it's an end-around.
Step 1. is proper identification of the problem.
Step 2. is a solution.
Switching to a 209 prime is almost never a solution to a muzzleloading problem. it's an end-around.
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If it's a new Lyman with CCI caps, they're notorious for not fitting and not going pop, at least on the first hammer strike. Switch nipples or switch caps, and all should be well.
jrmflintlock
45 Cal.
It is my belief that that is where the fowling shot idea came from.
Folks take a clean rifle, put a load in it and head to the woods. Oil seeps up nipple and contaminates the cap. NO BOOM!
The process of loading forces air out the nipple which pulls oil from the chamber into the nipple channel. AS Britsmoothy said, Even a drop will kill a cap!
SO.. Now Folks load and fire a charge before oil has time to "creep", essentially drying out the chamber of oil, solving the problem for later in the day.
Of course there are other "reasons" to fowl a barrel, but I think this is a big one.
I myself never fowl a barrel but I do pop several caps before loading cap guns and keep my oil use to a minimum.
Another reason I like flinters better!!
Folks take a clean rifle, put a load in it and head to the woods. Oil seeps up nipple and contaminates the cap. NO BOOM!
The process of loading forces air out the nipple which pulls oil from the chamber into the nipple channel. AS Britsmoothy said, Even a drop will kill a cap!
SO.. Now Folks load and fire a charge before oil has time to "creep", essentially drying out the chamber of oil, solving the problem for later in the day.
Of course there are other "reasons" to fowl a barrel, but I think this is a big one.
I myself never fowl a barrel but I do pop several caps before loading cap guns and keep my oil use to a minimum.
Another reason I like flinters better!!
I've used cappers in conditions from well below zero to soggy wet snow to 100 degree heat and humidity nearly to match. Never had a persistent problem like is being described with #11 caps going off. I would agree with many others here that something else is the issue and going to a 209 is a bandaid and not a long term cure. As JRM mentions, I always popped a cap or two the first load after cleaning to dry any residue left. I think patent breeches are especially susceptible if proper procedure is not followed.
Indeed, one of many possible problems. another would be if the hammer or lock internals are dragging on the wood. This slows the hammer fall and produces intermittent cap detonations.
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