Hi Folks, Where on the Frizzen should the flint strike? Also I only seem to get about 5 shots out of my English flints before they are buggered.
Pedersoli Kentucky 45cal
Pedersoli Kentucky 45cal
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- Thread starter Kiwi Hawkeye
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Could be your flint is striking too high and too much at right angles. It's got to strike at more of an angle otherwise the flint edge gets buggered. Doesn't matter so much WHERE on the frizzen it strikes as at what ANGLE it strikes. You can mount the flint "upside down" if that gets it to strike at more of an angle. Or, as I did with one of mine, you can insert a small extra piece of leather as a "buffer" above or below the flint to make it mount and strike at a different angle, or to make it strike higher or lower.
Daryl Crawford
50 Cal.
I like the flint to strike above the half way point of the frizzen face, with the flint at a slightly downward angle.
Flint set up matters to good ignition and to long lasting flints.
I posted this before on other threads, but I'll copy it here.
A sharp flint that is the width of your frizzen face is what you want.
I was first instructed to make sure the tip of the flint rests centered over the pan when the **** is at rest.
Second, pull back the hammer to half **** and lower the frizzen so it covers the pan. The flint should not touch the frizzen, but should be pretty close to it (between an eighth and quarter of an inch) and should point at the frizzen face at or above the half way mark up the frizzen face (I prefer it at least 60% up the frizzen face). If it points too low, you can flip the flint. It shouldn't point directly at the face, but have a slight downward angle or it will wear your flint quickly.
Third, you should be able to release the hammer from half **** and lower it slightly while holding it. With your other hand raise the frizzen up slightly and you should get a mostly straight line between the flint and frizzen base.
That should get you a long strike/scrape to make sparks and ensure the frizzen isn't blocking them from dropping into the pan while simultaneously avoiding smashing flints.
The caviot is that individual lock may have varied geometry so this set up won't be quite identical between locks of different style/geometry. That said, it is a guideline that has held pretty well for me.
Flint set up matters to good ignition and to long lasting flints.
I posted this before on other threads, but I'll copy it here.
A sharp flint that is the width of your frizzen face is what you want.
I was first instructed to make sure the tip of the flint rests centered over the pan when the **** is at rest.
Second, pull back the hammer to half **** and lower the frizzen so it covers the pan. The flint should not touch the frizzen, but should be pretty close to it (between an eighth and quarter of an inch) and should point at the frizzen face at or above the half way mark up the frizzen face (I prefer it at least 60% up the frizzen face). If it points too low, you can flip the flint. It shouldn't point directly at the face, but have a slight downward angle or it will wear your flint quickly.
Third, you should be able to release the hammer from half **** and lower it slightly while holding it. With your other hand raise the frizzen up slightly and you should get a mostly straight line between the flint and frizzen base.
That should get you a long strike/scrape to make sparks and ensure the frizzen isn't blocking them from dropping into the pan while simultaneously avoiding smashing flints.
The caviot is that individual lock may have varied geometry so this set up won't be quite identical between locks of different style/geometry. That said, it is a guideline that has held pretty well for me.
Poor lock geometry. With a good lock you should get AT LEAST 100 shots. The consensus among out local shooters is 120 shots is pretty average, and I have had one gun that went for 187 shots before I sold it, and I know the lady got quite a few more shots from it.
Wow lots of great info. Thanx
Tasbay
40 Cal
As I understand it the flint should strike about 2/3rds of the way up the frizzen. I found my Pedersoli Kentucky frizzen spring to be too strong. When it broke, I made one out of an old skill saw blade and flints last a lot longer.
Pictures of my lock
1) is hammer forward
2) Full ****
3) is hammer half ****
1) is hammer forward
2) Full ****
3) is hammer half ****
Mine was dong the same thing so
I took a popsicle stick & a piece of 420 wet/dry sandpaper and polished the frizzen. Finished with 600 grit.
Have about 50 rounds through it now with the same flint.
The only time it didn't fire was because I forgot to prime the pan.
PS. I also lightly polish the frizzen after ever shooting session.
I took a popsicle stick & a piece of 420 wet/dry sandpaper and polished the frizzen. Finished with 600 grit.
Have about 50 rounds through it now with the same flint.
The only time it didn't fire was because I forgot to prime the pan.
PS. I also lightly polish the frizzen after ever shooting session.
Last edited:
Daryl Crawford
50 Cal.
Polishing the frizzen? I've never heard of doing that.
You could use a piece of leather to wedge that back, underside, of your flint to create a slight downward angle of the cutting edge.
You could use a piece of leather to wedge that back, underside, of your flint to create a slight downward angle of the cutting edge.
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Gotta say that I never considered polishing the frizen. A 600 grit polish seems a bit too smooth to me. My frizens are gouged and rough. Thought they needed this rough face.Mine was dong the same thing so
I took a popsicle stick & a piece of 420 wet/dry sandpaper and polished the frizzen. Finished with 600 grit.
Have about 50 rounds through it now with the same flint.
The only time it didn't fire was because I forgot to prime the pan.
PS. I also lightly polish the frizzen after ever shooting session.
Wouldn't that hasten wearing off the hardened surface and lead to other problems prematurely?
Mine were gouged also. I just smoothed the outer surface and left the deeper gouges there as it would involve removing to much surface hardening thereby shortening the life of the frizzen.
hanshi
Cannon
My experience with Pedersoli is that while the guns are very nice, accurate and well made, the smaller flintlocks are fairly close to worthless. On mine, nothing I did made much difference.
If you've ever whittled a stick with a pocket knife. that's about the flint to frizzen angle you want.
If you've ever whittled a stick with a pocket knife. that's about the flint to frizzen angle you want.
I also have a Pedersoli Kentucky in 45 and experienced the same problem. I sent mine to a gentleman to have the lock geometry adjusted and the springs tuned. Mine works much better now. Problem is is that I can't remember his full name. It's Brad something. Perhaps others can chime in.
Did a search and the name is Brad Emig at Cabin Creek Muzzle Loading. He does great work.
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