I'm not happy with Lyman

[NAA_Silent]

[RANT] I purchased a GPR kit from Lyman, and assembled it. The assembly was ok, it did taked about 12 hours of work getting the stock in order, but that was to be expected. What wasn't expected tho was running a brass brush down the bore and having the end pull right off of the ram rod. It took almost no force at all to pull the end off. The ram rod shows almost no signs of epoxy at all. I am dissapointed that a kit of this cost would not even bother to pin the ram rod. [/RANT]

How the heck am I gonna get this brass brush and ram rod tip out of my rifle??

 

[CrossXstix]

A long piece of copper pipe that will fit down the bore and tap down over the offending brush, and pull it out.

X
David

 

[B. Miller]

I got the ramrod stuck in my lyman running a patch through. I took out the flash hole liner, placed a little bit of flash powder inside the back of the barrel put the flash hole liner back primed the pan and let fly. The ramrod went about 25 to 30 feet, landed harmlessly with nothing broken.
Bruce

 

If the brush is at max depth(which I assume)plug the flash hole with a toothpick. Pour melted wax down the bore. Enough to encase about half the brush(use the ramrod to gauge depth). Let it harden until completely cool. Remove the flash hole screw. And blow it out using a compressor and a rubber tipped air line blow gun.

Since your ramrod tip is also stuck aim it at something soft when you do it. It'll come out at a high rate of speed.

 

[jdkerstetter]

You've learned two valuable lessons.

#1, All ramrod tips should be cross-pinned in place.

#2, Ramrods are not cleaning rods.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[NAA_Silent]

All good advise. But I already took the gorilla method being that I'm not always that smart. I clamped the barrel in my vice and pulled the breach plug off the back of the barrel. The tip of the brush was sitting about 1/4 inch outside the barrel after that. Easy to just grab with pliers and pull it out.

I did leave some marks on the barrel, but since I just built the rifle, it wasn't that hard to file out the marks and re-blue the offending area. I'm still not impressed with Lyman ATM tho.

 

I made a newbie error and loaded a patched ball with no powder. I ran a puller and it simply pulled itself out without the ball. I tried compressed air and it bled past the ball. So I melted a thumb size piece of wax and poured it down the barrel.

When I hit it with the compressor again it sent the ball through one of the doors in my workshop.

Live and learn!

 

[NAA_Silent]

Believe me, I'm going to epoxy the ends on and pin them in place. I just might order a synthetic rod.

 

[BrownBear]

You've learned two valuable lessons.

#1, All ramrod tips should be cross-pinned in place.

#2, Ramrods are not cleaning rods.

Enjoy, J.D.

And #3- Ain't never seen a tip epoxied on a ramrod from any company.

For future reference, here's quick tip if you ever stick another brush in a bore: Just twist the ramrod in a clockwise direction so the brush doesn't unthread from the rod. Continue twisting and the bristles of the brush will lay down and the ramrod and brush will pop right out. Dunno how I learned that one do you?

 

[Prairieofthedog]

Like Brown Bear said they are usually not glued or pinned from any firearms company.First thing I do once getting a gun home is cross pin the ramrod tips then it is done and I can forget about it.Then get yourself a range rod,it is one of the best muzzleloading accoutrements you can spend your money on.

 

[NAA_Silent]

The ram rod end did not pull off because of the brush, it pulled off because the turned end of the rod was to small to hold on to the ram rod end. It took almost no pull at all to pull it off.

And my Traditions St. Lous Hawken came with a synthetic rod that was cross pinned from the factory.

 

[nchawkeye]

Been shooting flintlocks since 1977, never used a cleaning brush, always use a cleaning jag....

 

[peter hawbaker]

I have never used a brush on any muzzleloader, brushs do not like to be pulled against the direction of travel. As the brush is pushed through a bore, the bristles bend backwards. If you then try to pull it the opposite direction, you are working against all those bristles which have to change direction.

 

[Dphar]

If the brush and tip are centered....
Wrap tape on the rod so it fits the bore fairly well.
See if this then enters the tip a slight taper on the rod might help might have to slightly reduce the diameter
Now mix and smear some epoxy like JB Quik (Auto parts store) it sets in a few minutes and should be set hard enough in an hour or two. Regular JB Weld sets over night.
Insert into the rod tip and let it set. When its set see if it will pull out.
Second way is to glue a tap to the rod that will lightly tap the tip (judge by the rods diameter where it fits in the tip) and screw it in the tip and then pull the parts out.

Dan

 

[S.Kenton]

A long piece of copper pipe that will fit down the bore and tap down over the offending brush, and pull it out.

X
David

I used this method already and it works very well. I may add that the copper tube needs to be slightly smaller than that of the bore of the barrel and tapering the inside of the tube helps as well..give it a push till it bottoms out and pull out the copper tube.. your brush will be stuck inside the tube.

 

[Matt85]

this post made me think.

so i just checked my lyman plains pistol and it indeed doesnt have cross pins on its ramrod. how cheap is a company that it doesnt install cross pins in the rod! im gonna have to get myself a number 40 drill bit and add cross pins.

-matt

 

[Spikebuck]

Need to ask a stupid question: Why two crossing pins vs just one pin? Is that a "belt and suspenders" approach just to be 200% certain that tip will not come off?

 

[Billnpatti]

Always check to see that your ramrod is cross pinned before trying to use it. That applies to all ramrods no matter where they come from. I put the tip on the ramrod (if it isn't already on ) and drill a hole through the tip and the rod. I then chamfer the holes slightly, apply a dab of epoxy to the brass rod and put the tight fitting brass rod through the hole. I cut the brass rod off close to the sides of the tip, hit it with a file to flatten the tips of the brass rod and then use a hammer to flare the tips of the brass rod into the chamfered holes. I use the flat surface on my bench vise to back up the other end of the brass rod while I am hammering one end into the hole. Once the holes in the tip are filled with the flared brass rod, I file everything off smooth with the sides. Some folks use two brass pins set at right angles to each other but I think that is overkill. No harm in doing it but I don't find it necessary.

 

[jdkerstetter]

Why two crossing pins vs just one pin?

It isn't two pins. Just one pin that goes through (or crosses) from one side to the other and is lightly peened on either side. I like to put light countersinks in the ramrod end to peen the pin into and file it flush.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Rifleman1776]

running a brass brush down the bore

Don't blame Lyman. Running a brass brush down an ml bore is one of the biggest 'NO-NOs' in the game. What you experienced is to be expected.
I haven't read the other posts yet. Hope you got it out OK.