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In letting black substitute

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Hello All.

Im just starting my second build, a Lancaster.Last time I used lipstick for in- letting and it was a bit messy. I thought to try in-letting black this time and after about 5 minutes I discovered its far worse. Is there anything out there less messy and easily available.

Thanks
 
To an extent there is a relationship between "messy" and transferability--has to be a little messy to transfer well. I like prussian blue, available at auto parts stores. Comes in a tube and works well, but it will get on things. Cleans up easily enough tho.
Good luck with your build.
 
kswan said:
Hello All.

Im just starting my second build, a Lancaster.Last time I used lipstick for in- letting and it was a bit messy. I thought to try in-letting black this time and after about 5 minutes I discovered its far worse. Is there anything out there less messy and easily available.

Thanks
The secret is to use very little inletting black - the brush should be almost dry.
 
Never used lipstick but did use inletting black for one night and when my wife saw me, she asked if I had worked in a coal mine.

Since that time, I have used Permatex spotting compound and it's worked fine for building many MLers. I usually mix in some blue wheel bearing grease to "stretch" the Permatex. It's mainly used for spotting contact areas when building plastic molds.....Fred
 
kswan said:
Hello All.

Im just starting my second build, a Lancaster.Last time I used lipstick for in- letting and it was a bit messy. I thought to try in-letting black this time and after about 5 minutes I discovered its far worse. Is there anything out there less messy and easily available.

Thanks
I don't know about "less messy" because they are all MESSY if you use too much of any of them. I use to use Prussan Blue but I found that for me it got all over and "mucked" up the wood and everything else. I use soot from a cheap craft store hurricane lamp with the glass chimney removed as seen in this picture - it is the "RED THING" in about the middle of the picture behind the mechanical pencile sharpener. If you want some soot grease then mix in a little grease with the soot but I just soot the part over the flame.
 
kswan said:
Yes, I dug up an old coal oil lamp we had in the basement. Thats works quite well. Thanks.
Yup, that's the ticket,, turn the wick up for soot,,
I keep a damp cloth handy to wipe off every once in a while too
 
Well one of our members (Doc Arroyo?) said he had seen a lot of originals and the bed was gouged out pretty rough. We do a better job nowadays.
I can't work with the black- ends up all over the place. I take 1/8" wide stripes of thin aluminum foil. I rub it flat and then line strips in the stock and put down the barrel. If I can pull a strip out- okay but if it sticks- that's a high spot. It works pretty good.
 
I have heard that some builders use dry erase board markers. I have never tried them, but I can see how they would work as the ink does not dry quickly.
 
Artists' oil paints from the tube. Prussian blue works well : ) . Any color you want will work.
 
a little less.......and wipe down with alcohol when done.....

and gloves....... :surrender:

marc n tomtom
 
I don't know of a anything that transfers well but is not messy. I used to use Prussian Blue but one day I couldn't find my tube of Prussian Blue so I just used a candle and sooted the parts. This worked pretty well but the constant re-lighting of the candle was a pain. Leaving it lit just was not a good idea due to the dripping wax. Anyway, before I found my tube of Prussian Blue, I went to the Dollar store and found the cheapest tube of lipstick they had. The stuff worked great and it is all I use now. Sure it is a bit messy and the heavier you put it on the part that you are fitting the greater the mess. But, if you use it judiciously it is great stuff. No matter what you use, it is going to get in places you don't want it but it can be sanded off wood easily or washed off metal parts with a solvent. Just do not use a solvent to remove it from wood because you can cause it to soak into the wood and stain it. Wipe and sand or scrape it from wood. You can also use masking tape around the area where you are working to keep it off places where you don't want it.

If you will look at pictures that some very skilled rifle builders have posted on this forum of builds in progress, you will often see smears of soot, or whatever they are using to fit parts, all over their unfinished stock. But when you see the finished product, all of the smears are gone and the stock is beautiful. Actually, it just doesn't have to be all of that big of a problem.
 

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