incised for-stock moulding

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Larry Pletcher

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What type of tool do you like to use for incised carved forstock mouldings? I'm thinking of a 60 degree veiner and working in walnut.

Regards,
Pletch
 
If you're referring to the molding along side the RR groove, I use a fixture that rides in the RR groove and cuts a neat incised line. This could then be gone over w/ a 60 degree veiner for more depth. I make this same molding as raised and simply cut to the incised line to a depth of .03-.04 w/ a 1/2 wide straight chisel.....Fred
 
It's NOT a "veiner", it's a "parting tool", or "V tool". A Veiner makes a "U" groove.
 
Why not make a "scratch" plane??? This looks like a standard Right Angle Gauge, but one side of the device runs on the flat surface of the unshaped stock, while and adjustable cutter is moved to cut the groove for the molding where you want it.
 
Thanks fellows.

Stophel, I should have said V tool. I'm at least glad you knew what I meant.

Fred, I've seen a jig in one of my books for doing this. Sounds like it would leave less chance for error.

Paul,
BTW the way, hope you're feeling better. I think I've heard these called "scratch stocks". Does the actual profile of the forearm including the moulding. Is that what you have in mind?

Regards,
Pletch
 
PLetch: I was actually trying to recall an article in the June, 1987, Volume II, issue of the Journal of Historical Armsmaking Technology, published and sold by the NMLRA. The article, at page 85, is titled, " Making and Using a Scratch-Stock for forearm Moldings. It is a right angle wood tool, with a slot cut on the inside of the angle. In that slot is fitted a piece of metal that has been cut to the design of the stock molding you desire. There are two adjusting screws on one axis, that hold the blade in the tool.

The Author, Russell L. Swanson, notes that the typical Molding plane is not very useful in cutting straight lines, in curly maple, for instance. The planes tend to tear out bits of wood at the curls. The Scratch Stock cuts more slowly, than the plane, but has no tendency to tear out wood between the curls. If kept sharp, and used carefully, the balde or iron leaves very little sanding necessary to finish the stock surface.

Basically, I would describe the tool as a scraper held in a right angle rigid handle. The straight sides of the wood tool allow you to index the tool on a straight side of the forestock.

In use, the tool is tipped over so that the blade shaves or " cuts" wood at an angle, similar to a plane. What that angle is depends on how much wood you desire to remove per stroke. The tool is pulled towards you, like a Japanese saw, when cutting wood.

I hope that clarifies. I found the copy of the book on my bookshelf this morning, and am looking at the article and pictures as I write this. :thumbsup:
 
Paul,
I wondered where I had gotten that name. Vol. 1-5 are on my shelves. I have an extra copy of Vol. 4 (since I'm in it.) Headed for Swanson's article now. Thanks.

Regards,
Pletch
 
fm tim said:
You can finish with a checkering tool to deepen.

Funny you should mention a checkering tool. I borrowed one this morning along with knife edge files for straighting incised lines.

Regards,
Pletch
 
Pletch:

I use a "V" tool over a penciled in straight line and deepen it with a "knife edge" file. The knife edge file "averages out" any wiggle from the "V" tool and give you a nice straight cut that can be opened up any way you like with the file, just work slow. Kinda like a "straighting tool" does in checkering - just a lot longer, say 6 ot 8 inches. Brownells carries the files. You can taper the cut out first with the file then the trusty 1/4 inletting chisel.

Mike F
 
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