Inletting tools..

[maypo59]

Does any one have experience with the "Gunline" brand of octagon inletting tools? I need to inlet the barrel on my GPR, I was going to make a tool, but just don't have time, and the one from Gunline tools appears to be about the only one out there for octagon barrels. Any input would be welcome..

 

[ricklandes]

The only Gun Line product that I have used is their checkering tools. I liked these quite well.

If you are working with an octogon barrel why not just make a scraper from an old file?

Trace the muzzle onto masking tape applied to an old flat file (assuming it is not a swamped barrel). Cut off the excess...taking the line...and sharpen to a razor edge. Works great for the channel. Before use just saw down to near depth of the side falts and gouge or chisel out. Use the new tool to smooth and finish...

 

[maypo59]

Because I am away from home, and only going to have about two hours to work on it when I get home, I want to spend that time on the rifle, not on makeing a tool... I can make one, and that was my plan, right up until life got in the way.. The metal work is all done, most of the wood work fitting, sanding, shapeing and inletting is done I just need to get the barrel inlet and all will be golden, and I figure I am going to be able to squeeze in about 3 or 4 more hours on it between now and BP season (if I am lucky), and I want to take the GPR out for that (if I can get away for a hunt).. so looking to see if I should order this tool and have it waiting on me when I get home weekend after next..

 

[Zonie]

maypo59:
I'm trying to figure out why you need a tool to inlet a Great Plains Rifle barrel?

These are factory inletted and usually very little needs to be done to the barrel channel to make the barrel fit it. In fact, removing too much material from the barrel channel can lead to a gun that won't consistently shoot to the same point of aim.

I suggest that you get a small piece of 1 X 2 pine board (actually 3/4 X 1 1/2 inches) to use as a sanding block and some 80 or 120 grit sandpaper and give your elbow some exercising sanding the barrel channel a bit to allow the barrel to slide smoothly into place.

Unless your seeing something that I'm not aware of there is no need to buy a special octagon barrel inletting tool for building a GPR.

 

[maypo59]

I don't have it in front of me right now... but, when I was doing the basic fit up to see how everything lined up and started shapeing sanding etc... the inlet area for the tang is deaper then the inlet for the barrel, by about a 16th to a 32nd. once the tang is seated and screwed down and tight, the barrel won't "close" it strikes the area that is not as inlet, and I am afraid if I put enough preasure on it to take it all the way down, something (stock) will break.If I leave the thru bolt on the tang loose, I can set the barrel all the way down in it's factory inlet, but then the tang is proud of the wrist by about a 16th, looks/feels like... a buddy of mine built one not long before I bought my kit, he built up the area under the tang in order to make his barrel close, works but as I said looks like..

so near as I can tell, the answer is to take the channel down a bit.. again it isn't in front of me, but when I was home last and working on it, that seemed to be my best answer.

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

It sounds like all you need to do is file the tang flush with the wood? Is the tang inlet too deep? If the tang doesn't sit solidly in it's inlet, either fill with a thin piece of wood or bedding compound then file the top tang flush with the stock, no reason to re-inlet the entire barrel....

 

[Black Hand]

It sounds like all you need to do is file the tang flush with the wood? Is the tang inlet too deep? If the tang doesn't sit solidly in it's inlet, either fill with a thin piece of wood or bedding compound then file the top tang flush with the stock, no reason to re-inlet the entire barrel....

I agree completely! It is such a simple matter to shim up the tang a bit so things are tight and file the tang flush with the wood. Quick, easy and will do no harm to the gun.....

 

[Jim Buchholz]

Dry fit the barrel,tang and the LOCK. Make sure the barrel-lock-hammer-nipple relationship is right before you start cutting anything. Its a fit ten times cut once sort of thing.

 

[MagKarl]

I would focus on making sure the barrel inletting is even with solid contact everywhere. Get some inletting black or prussian blue and check for high spots. Get the stock to the point that the barrel is where it needs to be to properly align with the lock. Then if the tang is out, just bend it a bit till it seats correctly and remove the excess wood that's left proud.