Invest/Euroarms Hawkin misfiring cap revisited.

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Caution is good but I really don't see a problem with the breech plug or for that matter the clicking mainspring.

The plug looks like it was machined a little on the large size and it was mated to a barrel that is on the small size of the tolerance bands.

In any case, that breech plug is solid steel on the side you have the straight edge held against.
IMO, there is no way it could have been bulged by high breech pressure.

The clicking is the spring rod hanging up slightly as the tumbler rotates. These parts are hardened where they contact but one part can "hang up" slightly and make sounds like I hear in the video. Some good machine oil might reduce the noise.
Even if it doesn't I don't see anything that would keep you from using the gun as it is.
 
Sorry about creating all this confusion. Is there a diagram for coil mains spring muzzle loaders like mike out there?

So if you guys dont think theres a problem with the mainspring, my best bet is to try different brand nipples with different caps?
 
No it's still the lock but simple stuff;
this is the Fly and where it belongs in the lock, this is a Lyman but your is very much the same;

HPIM0589.jpg


That thing needs to be in position and have lubrication, aka: a drop of oil.
The plate that fit's over the tumble (O-Bridle) nees to have the two (P-Bridle Screws) good and snug, if not the fly will tip and jam the lock at or near half-cock,, it looks like it fires but actually stops short of hittine the cap.

When you install the lock in the stock the single screw (lock bolt) that holds the lock in does not need to be super tight. Over tightening of the lock bolt can pull the main spring into the wood inside the lock and slow it down or even stop the hammer fall. All the lock bolt needs is just over finger tight in some cases.

The screw that holds the sear in (J-Sear screw Pivot) also can not be over tight the sear needs to rotate freely or it won't move fast enough to get out of the way of the half cock.

So Screw tension and plenty of lubrication both are very important to this type of lock to work properly
 
torontoalex said:
I am using CCI no11 magnum fitted to a Oregon Mike's (uncle mikes?) nipple. (stainless?).


this is most likely your problem. The last few tins of CCI caps I bought seemed like the caps were made slightly undersize, and did not want to seat properly. I've switched to Remington and RWS and have had no issues since. As for the hammer re-cocking itself, I recommend replacing the nipple, preferably with a hot shot type from MMS or AMPCO. :2
 
I disagree.
I think he's just got gorilla going on with the screw driver.
The only place anywhere near gorilla is needed is at the Bridle screws, and that has to be done with proper judgment too, things have to be able to move in there.
It's common to think; "It's a gun, screws must be tight!"
Nope.
 
you maybe right, but would the gorilla with the screwdriver cause the hammer to re-cock itself? :hmm:
 
Nope That's a worn Nipple.
Gas from the main charge causes what's referred to as Gas Cutting with every shot. The variables of Powder type, powder charge and cleaning determine how long a nipp will last, but sooner or later they begin blowing the hammer back and it's time for a new one.
But he's already said this;
I am using CCI no11 magnum fitted to a Oregon Mike's (uncle mikes?) nipple. The nipples are dated from the 80's original new packaging. I've opened up 3-4. They are clean (stainless?).
 
yep, that's why I recommended a new nipple of the hot shot variety. the smaller flash hole in them sure seems to cure the re-cocking issues. :wink: FWIW I've ran into new nipples that were made with too large a flash hole causing blow back, hence my reason for recommending a new nipple.
 
I imagine it could happen on a revolver but have never experienced it with my revolver. that being said, I have experience with bad nipples on a rifle and on a duck foot pistol. when I fired the pistol the blowback re-cocked the hammer which in turn punched a nice little hole in the web of my hand between my thumb and forefinger.
 
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