Issues... and I'm upset !!!

[Carbon 6]

I'm with Carbon 6 on this. A fouling scraper won't get into that chambered breech on a CVA. A good idea for a non chambered breech.

Exactly! Good for flat faced breeches but not for CVA. Traditions, Investarms or T/C.

 

[Carbon 6]

I wouldn't use a pipe cleaner on a Traditions breech either.
It's asking for trouble. Use a flush nipple and MAP instead.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I wouldn't use a pipe cleaner on a Traditions breech either.
It's asking for trouble. Use a flush nipple and MAP instead.

Yeah, that change of direction under the nipple is a problem. I just don't like to think that the manufacturing access screw should be used as a clean out screw, but it can be used. Flush nipple and MAP or even soapy water is a good choice too, but the breech needs to be dried before storage and the breech needs to be drained of fluids.

The OP should be getting more than two shots before the breech is blocked by fouling sludge.

 

[fleener]

you guys need to think out of the box a little bit more. You telling me that if I fitted a scrapper for the reduced area that I would not be able to use it and that it might not be useful?

While I do not own a CVA or a Traditions, I do have rifles with a chambered breech and I have fitted a scrapper that cleans it out.

I also have taken a 1/8" wire bristled brush that is made for a dremel tool, and fitted to a screw that will go onto a range rod. I use it to clean out those tight areas all the time. Failing to do so causes me ignition problems.
Fleener

 

[Grenadier1758]

A custom fitted scraper would work. You do need a long scraper. A sub caliber brush such as your wire bristled brush to snare a patch dampened with rubbing alcohol is every bit as useful and quicker to obtain than a custom fitted scraper. I think we agree.

 

[Rat]

If caps are too tight on a nipple, just chuck it in the drill press, and turn it down with some emery paper (or a very fine, small file) until you get the perfect fit. However, not a bad idea to try a hot-shot or spit fire.

All in all, sounds like a powder problem, or a badly clogged flash channel. Or both. Use black powder only! !!! I wouldn't use 777 or Pyrodex even if Grizz was charging me, and I had the time. I'm sure real black powder is available in North Idaho, I live 40 miles West of Post Falls/CDA, and can get it in Spokane.

From what I've heard, the TC Hawken and Lyman Great Plains Rifle both have more reliable ignition. Maybe sell/trade-up? I think they are all about in the same price range.

 

[Henry Miles]

CCI caps are craps! Get some RWS caps and you'll see a difference.

 

[Zonie]

If being "anal" includes wiping the bore after every shot, if the wiping is done by vigorously running a damp patch up and down the bore, that is an excellent way of forcing fouling into the flame channel in the breech of the barrel. Fouling in the flame channel will usually keep the gun from firing.

The right way to "wipe the bore" in my opinion is to run 1 slightly wet patch down the bore with a cleaning jag. Let it sit in the breech for about 10 seconds. Then, slowly pull the patched jag out of the bore in one, smooth, continuous stroke.
Under no circumstance should the shooter pump the rod up and down the bore.

Following the removal of the damp patch, run one dry patch down the bore and then back out of it. Again, do not pump this dry patch up and down the bore.
After this drying the bore is done, reload the gun for the next shot.

 

[Carbon 6]

You telling me that if I fitted a scrapper for the reduced area that I would not be able to use it and that it might not be useful?

Correct! It is also not necessary.

 

[Carbon 6]

If being "anal" includes wiping the bore after every shot, if the wiping is done by vigorously running a damp patch up and down the bore, that is an excellent way of forcing fouling into the flame channel in the breech of the barrel. Fouling in the flame channel will usually keep the gun from firing.

The right way to "wipe the bore" in my opinion is to run 1 slightly wet patch down the bore with a cleaning jag. Let it sit in the breech for about 10 seconds. Then, slowly pull the patched jag out of the bore in one, smooth, continuous stroke.
Under no circumstance should the shooter pump the rod up and down the bore.

Following the removal of the damp patch, run one dry patch down the bore and then back out of it. Again, do not pump this dry patch up and down the bore.
After this drying the bore is done, reload the gun for the next shot.

Cleaning between shots should not be necessary with Pyrodex until at least 20 shots or so. When you do have to clean though, the fouling is more "gummy" than real black. I recommend several patches and a quick flush followed by a couple caps. Then proceed as normal.
If a person only gets 1-3 shots off with Pyrodex before needing a cleaning, the problem is probably lube related.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

Forget the fancy nipples and venting and other tom foolery. You don't need musket nipples, or super laser cross bored leaking nipples. Put a new factory nipple on the gun. Clean the gun, with alcohol before shooting if necessary to get oil out of the flash channel. Snap two or three caps before loading. Use real black powder. After pouring in the powder, use your palm and smack the gun sharply two or three times on the side opposite the lock to settle powder into the flash channel. Then load the projectile and seat it just until you feel the powder crunch. Throw the fake powder away. Make sure your clean out screw is not so long that it blocks the under side of the nipple. I did match shooting for many years and people tried all kinds of expensive after market inventions to make the guns go off. Attention to detail and consistency make for reliability. There is some simple step you are missing in your prep and loading. Thousands of those guns are out there firing reliably for thousands of other owners. There is a very small chance that it is some defect specific to your gun, and 99% chance it is something you are overlooking. Make sure you are not over torquing the lock into the mortise and causing internal friction to slow the hammer fall or that the hammer is rubbing on the stock to slow the hammer. Lastly, did anyone ever remove the drum on your gun? If so, the likelihood that they got it lined up correctly is pretty slim. If it is not exactly in line with the hammer face, the hammer will not hit the nipple squarely and it may take more than one strike to get ignition.

 

[Stantheman86]

209 Primer adapters are the "go off, and I'm not asking" accessory. I usually keep one for every thread pitch with a few primers in my range bag in case I mess up and don't dry my bore enough , or dry ball .....and need to do the "work some powder in the bolster" trick.

That 209 will ignite any dry powder in the breech area. One of them helped save a range day when I swabbed and forgot to pop a musket cap, contaminating the charge. A few grains in the bolster and installing the 209 nipple "pap.....BOOM!!"

Everyone knows that feeling of relief in your heart when a stubborn charge bangs off ,and you don't have to look for your ball puller knowing you're about to go to war with a firmly seated ball/bullet.

Otherwise I feel 209 adapters are an abomination but they have their utility. They're as HC as C02 blasters.

Plus for a pure hunting rifle that needs to fire , 100%, for that one critical shot to fill your tag......a little modern non-HC stuff can be helpful if you have something very loosely based on a Hawken or Kentucky rifle anyway.

 

[Carbon 6]

Plus for a pure hunting rifle that needs to fire , 100%, for that one critical shot to fill your tag......a little modern non-HC stuff can be helpful if you have something very loosely based on a Hawken or Kentucky rifle anyway.

I have found, through years of careful experimentation that even an CVA/Traditions benefits the most, not from modern advances, but from adherence to more traditional methods, equipment and procedures.

 

[longcruise]

Looking at the original post I'm not clear on what you mean by failure to ignite. Is it the cap that doesn't ignite or the powder.

As regards cap size, oversize caps shouldn't fail to fire just because of the fit. If oversize doesn't go off its a cap quality problem or more remotely a weak mainspring. Undersized will need to be hit multiple times by the hammer to make them go off and they still might not go. Cap has to be all the way down onto the nipple.

Oversize can be kept on the nipple if you squeeze it just a little.

 

[Treestalker]

Black powder! The "substitute" for substitutes.

LOL ROFL

 

[yonderin]

Does sound like you should invest in a new nipple(s) at the very least.

Had a rifle that was hit and miss on me. A number of years ago but as I recall it would snap caps reliably but once loaded it might take multiple attempts before it would fire. Changed the mainspring on it and no more issues in the short time before I passed it on.

Maybe just lucky and it is still prone to that. Don't recall if I changed my cleaning routine or something else as well that may have actually been the problem. Real black for propellant.

 

[Briengolis]

All, thanks for the ideas. Makes a ton of sense, or at least a good excuse to spend some more money. I think im going to try a few new nipples and primers (#11 magnum cci's that i already have and the also muskets) is there a draw back to using musket primers vs. #11 magnums? Also, recommendations on a very easy to ignite powder?

Maybe even get some rws caps too as recommended.

My cleaning procedures are as follows 1) suction boiling dishsoap water (easy on the soap) on a fully disassembled barrel 2) brass brushes inside bore and nipple receiver assebly 3) after running clear with patches i season very lightly with olive oil inside and out 4) let the sucker cool off 100% disassembled and so anything excess can drain and not collect. 5) reassemble and go bang my head into a brick wall for a few hours.

Thanks again.

 

[Briengolis]

Oh, I almost forgot. I can get my primers to go off 95% of the time (#10's i have trouble with and sometimes requite 2 strikes to ignite, makes sense as I dont thin they are seated) and my problem is actually igniting my propellant.

I did notice that my drum surface is not 100% square with my nipple. I really didnt think twice about this as i can usually make the caps go off. However, does this condition let some of the cap ignition escape the nipple or am I over thinking this?.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Oh, I almost forgot. I can get my primers to go off 95% of the time (#10's i have trouble with and sometimes requite 2 strikes to ignite, makes sense as I dont thin they are seated) and my problem is actually igniting my propellant.

I did notice that my drum surface is not 100% square with my nipple. I really didnt think twice about this as i can usually make the caps go off. However, does this condition let some of the cap ignition escape the nipple or am I over thinking this?.

Square it up brother.
Stop using oil from the ground too.

 

[Walkingeagle]

-Did you buy this gun new or used?
-Has the drum ever been removed from the barrel? (Not the nipple but the actual drum)
-Best Powder, use only real black powder in fffg granulation.
I am also wondering if someone removed the drum and failed to reinstall correctly.
Walk