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Japanese Edo period slowmatch

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I'd like to make some slowmatch for my Tanegashima matchlock. Does anyone know what type of cordage they would've used in Japan at that time? Would it have been twist, or braided? Some type of bamboo fiber or did they have something like hemp? Is there anything available that would be even close in style and function? I'm looking for the raw cordage, I'll do the nitrate treatment.

Thanks.

-Drew
 
The matchcord I have seen appears to be braided rather than twisted.

You can get braided hemp cord from R&W Rope in Massachusetts. You may have to buy a whole roll.

I'd recommend that you buck the match before nitrating it to remove the lignin. That is more important than the nitrate. I have successfully used match that was bucked but not nitrated. Less lignin = less ash = surer ignition. I use either wood ash liquor or potassium carbonate (potash, same diff but pure) that I get on eBay.
 
The matchcord I have seen appears to be braided rather than twisted.

You can get braided hemp cord from R&W Rope in Massachusetts. You may have to buy a whole roll.

I'd recommend that you buck the match before nitrating it to remove the lignin. That is more important than the nitrate. I have successfully used match that was bucked but not nitrated. Less lignin = less ash = surer ignition. I use either wood ash liquor or potassium carbonate (potash, same diff but pure) that I get on eBay.
Could you explain the bucking process in a little more detail? Everything I've read is basically just soaking the cord in a potassium nitrate solution, playing with the concentration and soak time to get the correct burn rate. Then again, most of those sources start with commercial Jute or Sisal cordage that's probably been highly processed already.
 
Line a big stainless pot with an old t-shirt, fill it with wood ashes, then hot water, and let it soak for 20 minutes. Then I bundle up the t-shirt and squeeze out the liquor. That's mild potash solution. Use rubber gloves. Alternatively, buy potassium carbonate on eBay. It's the pure version of wood ashes. I've gone from wood ashes to the powdered stuff just because it is less work. Don't use regular lye because it attracts moisture.

Then put in a coil of the hemp and simmer it for a couple of hours. The potash (potassium carbonate) cooks the lignin out of the rope. It weakens it but reduces the ash formation. This was called "bucking" back in the day. The water will be brown. You might want to buck the rope twice to really get it lignin free. The rope will go from tan and rough to whitish and soft.

Then wring out the rope and soak it in dilute vinegar to neutralize the potash. Then rinse and dry.

You can use it like this or soak it in a dilute solution of potassium nitrate (saltpeter). The bucking is really the most important part.

I use the KNO3, but I have to be restrained with it because too much will make the match spit sparks, which is unsafe. If you use the KNO3, dry the match flat on a cookie sheet. Otherwise the KNO3 will migrate to the low points and make the burn rate uneven.

Twice bucked match with KNO3 is sure fire.

The sign of success is match that will burn with little ash and a big ice cream cone shaped glowing end. If it has a round nub of an end, try something different. It takes experimentation.
 
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Did they do big bore or cannons?Also where we buy books on these beautiful firearms?
 
Line a big stainless pot with an old t-shirt, fill it with wood ashes, then hot water, and let it soak for 20 minutes. Then I bundle up the t-shirt and squeeze out the liquor. That's mild potash solution. Use rubber gloves. Alternatively, buy potassium carbonate on eBay. It's the pure version of wood ashes. I've gone from wood ashes to the powdered stuff just because it is less work. Don't use regular lye because it attracts moisture.

Then put in a coil of the hemp and simmer it for a couple of hours. The potash (potassium carbonate) cooks the lignin out of the rope. It weakens it but reduces the ash formation. This was called "bucking" back in the day. The water will be brown. You might want to buck the rope twice to really get it lignin free. The rope will go from tan and rough to whitish and soft.

Then wring out the rope and soak it in dilute vinegar to neutralize the potash. Then rinse and dry.

You can use it like this or soak it in a dilute solution of potassium nitrate (saltpeter). The bucking is really the most important part.

I use the KNO3, but I have to be restrained with it because too much will make the match spit sparks, which is unsafe. If you use the KNO3, dry the match flat on a cookie sheet. Otherwise the KNO3 will migrate to the low points and make the burn rate uneven.

Twice bucked match with KNO3 is sure fire.

The sign of success is match that will burn with little ash and a big ice cream cone shaped glowing end. If it has a round nub of an end, try something different. It takes experimentation.
That's a better explanation than I've found anywhere else, I appreciate you taking the time to write it up. I'll be trying this soon.
 

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