JB weld or Acriglass?

[BLAHMAN]

Well, I'm putting together a rifle, cherry, and I've taken the buttplate off so often (fitting a patchbox and trying to fit the box to the contours of the buttplate) that the tang screww is not snugging down the top of the buttplate. The hole has somewhat wallowed out.I did try to jam a toothpick in it, but that caused the cherry to split at the hole where this screw goes in (don't ya love the way cherry takes off and does things like that?)

The question is: to repair the hole and the stop the split from happening, do I want to use JB Weld or[url] Acriglass.....in[/url] other words, based upon somebody else's experience, which would be stronger and provide the best repair qualities?

I've heard a lot of good things about JB Weld (I use Acriglass as a bedding a lot) like: "After I totaled my car, I put it back together with JB Weld", or "Ma wife was yakkin' at me so I shut 'er up with JB Weld"

What's you thoughts guys? :hmm:

 

[Stumpkiller]

How hard did you jam that toothpick in that it split the wood!

I generally use carpenter's glue & wood slivers to fill a reamed hole and then flush it up when dry (overnight) before re-drilling for the screw. JB Weld is overkill for that job, and you'll need to tap into it for the threads like metal. Otherwise when you sink the screw it will force the wood away from the hardened material and you'll split again (or shear off the screw head trying ~ JB does not compress). You can wax the screw & plate and have it in place as the Weld sets up - but then you risk attaching the buttplate permanently. :shocking:

Acriglass is a bedding compound first, and a cement second. It's a bit too brittle to be a good cement. JB Weld is a cement. Good old 30 minute epoxy isn't bad for such applications, either. For wood to wood joints press any epoxy together lightly but clamp any carpenters (yellow) or white glue tightly. Over-clamping epoxy can starve the joint and cause it to later fail.

 

[hcook]

You can also drill the hole out and glue a dowel in. Then drill a new screw hole. The glued dowel will also help hold the crack together. Carpenters glue works well for this.

Hank in WV

 

[Birddog6]

I think if it were me & since it is cherry I would drill it out & put an adequate wood plug or dowel in there substancially larger than the threads of the screw. (this should be a snug fit but not a "driven in" fit, as the cherry will easily split again if you pressure it too much)
I would apply all the thin cyanoacrylate glue it would soak up, then finish the gluing with the medium thickness glue of same type. (Hobby Lobby or a hobby shop) This would fill the crack you made & substantially glue in the dowel plug.
Care muct be taken when redrilling the new screw hole as it needs to be the correct size as not to split out the new wood ya just put in. (I would also lightly roughen the plug on the outside with 120 grit sandpaper as to make small grooves in it for the glue to bite into, sanding not up & down, but around the plug)

When installing the screws on it, don't tighten the bejesus out of it, just snug it down & not real tight as it is not necessary, it is just a buttplate. Put a lil beeswax or paste wax shoe polish in the screw hole & on the screw threads so you lubricate the screw & it will work about 50% easier. Go easy on ALL of the screws on cherry, as it will not take the torque like hard maple will.

:results:

 

[TANSTAAFL]

You can also drill the hole out and glue a dowel in. Then drill a new screw hole. The glued dowel will also help hold the crack together. Carpenters glue works well for this.

Hank in WV

I agree, the dowel is most often the beast option for such repairs. :agree:

On the subject of JB Weld, I am an aficionado of it. :redthumb: I have used it professionally to repair large and very expensive industrial gear boxes for metal stitching the broken pieces back together.

For my own use, to-date, I have used JB Weld to build a two piece scope mount. (holding up great under recoil) On my old hard used 85 full size Jimmy K-5, I have repaired a cracked rear differential housing, (never leaked another drop) repaired a bad radiator leaking in several places, repaired a tranny fluid leak in the drive line output shaft where the pressed in sealing plug was throwing out fluid. I carry the regular and JB Quik in my repair tool box when running the desert with the K-5. In short, I love JB Weld, and with the over 600 degree working temp, it just holds up where others fail.

But, and a big but, if used for gun repairs, always remember that ugly gray color, if not hidden, it will stick out like a turkey in the hen house. :redface:

 

Hey, Tan isn't that sposed to be a Fox in thet thar Henhouse :crackup:

 

[caneman]

Somewhere in these postings was written to mortise out a hole to insert/glue a block instead of using a cut off dowel. Reason being it gives crossgrain to run the screw into instead of the endgrain of a dowel rod. Sounded good to me and I'm going to try it on a troublesome screen door latch as soon as it warms a bit.

Maybe that person can write back and give a better description of the fix.

 

[BLAHMAN]

Actually Stumpy, I didn't jam the toothpick in, just sort of slid it in, then I noticed the split. I did manage to solve the initial problem, lucky for me, I found a screw that had the same head dimensions, but was longer, that baby bit and the heel of the butplate is held down.

Thanks for all the info.

 

[Nightwind]

A LONGER screw! Dang, that was too easy! Things aren't supposed to go that way. I'll have to put that in my book of "Saving my a$$".

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Hey, Tan isn't that sposed to be a Fox in thet thar Henhouse :crackup:

:agree:It do be hard for a turkey to be foxy, but maybe they are accomplices.

 

[BLAHMAN]

A LONGER screw! Dang, that was too easy! Things aren't supposed to go that way. I'll have to put that in my book of "Saving my a$$".

Ok, ok.....here, how's this: After applieing the appropriate mathematics, and using the correct devices for measuring the needed distance to secure said buttplate, I perused through my inventory of longer and stouter securing devices to come upon the neccesary one that would provide the needed torque to secure said buttplate in such a manner as to be pleasing to the eye.

WHEH! What a relief, try sayin that fast three times!

 

[Stumpkiller]

Well, quit messin around with all that and go find a longer screw like ye said ye was a'gonna.

 

[Pork Chop]

(don't ya love the way cherry takes off and does things like that?)

Whatcha tryin to do? Scare me off of making my cherry stock for the Bobcat? Glad you got the problem solved though.

BTW, 2 of the pistols are done - one more only needs a screw, and one needs about $20 in parts and the 4 pre Bobcat projects are done!

 

[BLAHMAN]

(don't ya love the way cherry takes off and does things like that?)

Whatcha tryin to do? Scare me off of making my cherry stock for the Bobcat? Glad you got the problem solved though.

BTW, 2 of the pistols are done - one more only needs a screw, and one needs about $20 in parts and the 4 pre Bobcat projects are done!

Oh come on! It ain't all that bad.....actually, cherry is pretty neat stuff to work with, it just seems brittle some times. I am rootin' for ya with your project. :thumbsup:

 

[Nightwind]

A LONGER screw! Dang, that was too easy! Things aren't supposed to go that way. I'll have to put that in my book of "Saving my a$$".

Ok, ok.....here, how's this: After applieing the appropriate mathematics, and using the correct devices for measuring the needed distance to secure said buttplate, I perused through my inventory of longer and stouter securing devices to come upon the neccesary one that would provide the needed torque to secure said buttplate in such a manner as to be pleasing to the eye.

WHEH! What a relief, try sayin that fast three times!

"DAHLING, I just Lahve how you said that"....Zsa Zsa Gabor