Keeping Walker cylinder turning freely

[bpd303]

Everybody WANTS to have "the" one but they are what they are!! The ONLY ones "correct" are the very first ones ( '62) reproduced but 99% of all reproductions aren't right!!

I guess mine made in 1962 must be correct, even if I can't find a manufactures mark and all the serial numbers match.
Edit: The only problem mine had was the loading lever would shoot loose, I corrected that by heating the spring, a little reshaping, quenching and tempering (heat treating) and it works the last time I shot it.

 

[45D]

I guess mine made in 1962 must be correct, even if I can't find a manufactures mark and all the serial numbers match.

So, you don't know who made it, but it's "right"?

 

[bpd303]

So, you don't know who made it, but it's "right"?

Yep...

 

[45D]

If it's right, there's no problem. What's the "endshake" measurement? (wedge driven in all the way (till it stops moving)).

 

[bpd303]

Just measured it and it is .004. As far as I know it is the original wedge and it shows no wear.
Edit Just thought the makers mark may be under the trigger guard, but I don't feel like taking it off to see.

 

[D Yager]

I wonder if the wedge is hitting the retainer screw? Maybe try taking out the retainer screw and tapping the wedge in and see if the barrel/cylinder gap changes.

 

[bpd303]

I wonder if the wedge is hitting the retainer screw? Maybe try taking out the retainer screw and tapping the wedge in and see if the barrel/cylinder gap changes.

After having a conversation with @45D and reading about using a mallet to seat the wedge, I checked the retainer screw which had some clearance, I used a small brass hammer and tapped the wedge, which did move in and that reduced the endshake to 0.001 and the barrel to cylinder gap to zero. When I first seated the wedge I used a plastic handle of one of my screw drivers and didn't hit it very hard.
Makes me a happy camper. Now if the weather cooperates tomorrow, I will fire a couple of cylinders through it to see if I can still hit the side of a barn, as I haven't shot it in 10-15 years.

 

[Dude]

... endshake to 0.001 and the barrel to cylinder gap to zero.

Endshake IS the barrel/cylinder gap. I think we're having a confusion of terms here. If the endshake is, in fact zero, the arbor needs shimming.

 

[45D]

Endshake IS the barrel/cylinder gap. I think we're having a confusion of terms here. If the endshake is, in fact zero, the arbor needs shimming.

Barrel/cylinder GAP is the amount of space between the cylinder face and the forcing cone when the cylinder is manually pushed forward. It usually is achieved by use of a bushing.

Endshake is the measured space between the cylinder face and forcing cone with the cylinder pulled to the rear-minus the "GAP" measurement. It's the actual amount of fore and aft movement of the cylinder.

Since there IS no measurable "GAP" with the cylinder pushed forward on an open-top revolver that has NO bushing, the "GAP" measurement is zero.
Therefore, the ONLY measurement you can measure "technically" ( so there's no confusion) is with the cylinder pulled to the rear, which is Endshake.

The "forcing cone" end of the barrel offers a nice bearing surface with its thickness of material.

Mike