Keeping your powder dry

[Stone]

I have read that black powder absorbs moisture and ambient humidity pretty easily. This weekend I did some hunting in Pa. and it was damp out. Our only way to get an opportunity was to put on small drives through thickets and clearcuts. This meant priming the pan for 20-30 minutes and then dumping the pan back into the pan primer. There is also the issue of my flask and load tubes having been outdoors in the high humidity for the day.

My question is if it is a good idea to put dessicant packets in the powder for a couple days prior to returning that powder back into the main container? Also, is it a good idea to keep dessicant packs in the powder in general?

 

[tnlonghunter]

In terms of long term storage, I've never needed to worry about moisture. I keep all my powder either the original can or an airtight horn, in a climate controlled area (i.e., my finished basement).

Are you thinking in terms of damp priming itself? If so, the amount of priming you use per pan is should be no more than 3-4 grains or so. Such a very little amount that I never bother with trying to salvage it if it's wet. Just dump it on the ground, dry the pan, and re-prime.

All that said, I don't know why you couldn't put in a desiccant pack if you really want to. But I'm sure someone with a better education in the chemical properties of BP will come along shortly, in case there is some issue I'm not aware of.

 

[Stone]

In terms of long term storage, I've never needed to worry about moisture. I keep all my powder either the original can or an airtight horn, in a climate controlled area (i.e., my finished basement).

Are you thinking in terms of damp priming itself? If so, the amount of priming you use per pan is should be no more than 3-4 grains or so. Such a very little amount that I never bother with trying to salvage it if it's wet. Just dump it on the ground, dry the pan, and re-prime.

Nothing got "wet" but was just exposed to high humidity for a while.

 

[tnlonghunter]

Nothing got "wet" but was just exposed to high humidity for a while.

I know that the finer the grind of powder the faster it absorbs moisture (e.g., 4f priming powder absorbs faster than 2f). That's why some folks prefer to use the same powder for both primer and main charge when hunting. But it's still such a small amount that I wouldn't bother trying to save a priming pan-worth. Just dump, clean the pan, and reprime.

 

[Stone]

I know that the finer the grind of powder the faster it absorbs moisture (e.g., 4f priming powder absorbs faster than 2f). That's why some folks prefer to use the same powder for both primer and main charge when hunting. But it's still such a small amount that I wouldn't bother trying to save a priming pan-worth. Just dump, clean the pan, and reprime.

Under normal circumstances, I would not ever worry about a few grains of powder. But given the fact that I had to beg to get a hundred grains or so of 4F, I would be out pretty soon.

I probably primed and emptied my gun 15 times between Friday and Saturday and until I can find a pound of 4F, I am wanting to save every grain I can.

 

[tnlonghunter]

Gotcha. In that case, I would save that 4f for the range and prime with main charge powder.

What were the weather conditions of your hunt? I don't know if I've got the fortitude to hunt in weather wet enough that I'd need to reprime 15 times. (Multiple cases of hypothermia in my youth have cured me of that drive! ).

FWIW, I do tend to try really hard to save my main charges.

 

[FishDFly]

"This meant priming the pan for 20-30 minutes and then dumping the pan back into the pan primer."

Personally putting damp powder back into the pan primer is dumb. You are contaminating dry powder with damp powder.

"There is also the issue of my flask and load tubes having been outdoors in the high humidity for the day."

Powder containers are supposed to be "air tight". IF yours are not, you need to get them that way.

"Also, is it a good idea to keep desiccant packs in the powder in general?"

Not needed.

 

[Stone]

"This meant priming the pan for 20-30 minutes and then dumping the pan back into the pan primer."

Personally putting damp powder back into the pan primer is dumb. You are contaminating dry powder with damp powder.

"There is also the issue of my flask and load tubes having been outdoors in the high humidity for the day."

Powder containers are supposed to be "air tight". IF yours are not, you need to get them that way.

"Also, is it a good idea to keep desiccant packs in the powder in general?"

Not needed.

Dumb? Nice!

I didn't say the powder was damp. I "asked" if powder being exposed to damp conditions (not raining, just damp) would be reason enough to put some desiccant packs in the powder?

So let me rephrase the question. Is there any potential negative to putting desiccant packets in your powder?

 

[smo]

Not unless it interferes with measuring out the powder too load…

If you pan area is clean and you keep your lock covered moisture should not be an issue…

 

[CapPopper]

I would think if your prime was too damp to put back into the primer it would likely be too damp to flash when the Sparks hit it...... If you're comfortable with it's properties for ignition when you put it back I'd say don't worry about it much..... That said if I was worried about running out of prime I'd just prime with whatever I used for my main charge. Which I do hunting often cause I don't have a good pan primer and don't like digging in my bag for the one I made. Got the horn for the main charge anyways so it just makes more sense and I can't tell any appreciable difference in ignition between 3 and 4 f..... I've read if you've got a good lock the difference between 4f and 2f is so slight that you are physically incapable of making it matter. That said not all locks spark equally but you can't blame that on the ignition time of the powder.

 

[Daveboone]

I have had powder in preloads (plastic capped push through type) for several years at times, and as our weather here is similar to yours, it is a good comparison. i have never had a problem with so stored powders. As mentioned, a cows knee helps to a certain extent, but other than frequent reprimiing, probably the next best is only to prime when actively hunting and hope you do not get the odd crazy deer showing up unexpectedly, as of course they are prone to do. From what I have read in old days, the flinters were loaded but not kept primed as much as us modern hunters are inclined to do
I know that some shooters create a wax seal around the priming pan, which i have not yet experimented with, but that looks worthwhile.

 

[Des52]

If you want a good answer to your problem get a good cows knee. It will keep your powder dry, but if it is really damp or wet use 3F or even 2f for priming it won't absorb wet like 4F.

 

[smo]

The pan must be clean…..not fouled

 

[Robby]

I don't know the answer Stone and can offer only my own experience and that is that prolonged humidity does not have a negative effect on powder in all the many years I have been using it. I believe the graphite coating has a lot to do with that, but then, I am not a chemist.
Robby

 

[Brokennock]

1f, 2f, 3f, are generally not hydroscopic, meaning they don't readily absorb moisture from the air.
4f is not glazed and coated, it has been known to absorb moisture.
Prime with what your main charge is. This simplifies things and reduces chances of wet prime.
Seal the pan with patch lube, chapstick, or similar.
Use a cow's knee.
Keep lock tucked up under armpit, and under outer clothing if possible, as much as possible.
Combine those three suggestions as much as possible.

I'm in a different camp regarding checking/changing prime. I use 3f in my pan, seal my pan, and keep the lock ad as much of the gun as possible under my matchcoat, in wet weather. I leave the frizzen/pan alone once it is primed and sealed.
At the end of the outing I don't bother returning that tiny bit of powder that it takes to prime the pan to a container.

I recall a period writing or two that spoke of returning powder to the horn to dry. I can't really figure this out. But I do know damp powder can be dried then used.

As far as putting a desiccant pack in the powder container, you could. I'd be concerned that it could cause flow issues when pouring.
If your worried about the powder you are trying to reuse, I would put it in a separate container with said desiccant pack. Maybe save it for the range at the end of the season if you're concerned.

 

[hanshi]

I've always primed mostly with 4F, probably 95%. I've hunted in everything from heavy fog, mist to frog choking downpours. In all those decades I have never had the 4F prime NOT stay dry regardless of the humidity or the conditions. The only time I've seen 4F prime wet was when the gun has been fired and reprimed without thoroughly drying the pan. If you know how to keep your lock dry there will be ZERO problems; if you don't then it's a crap choot. Black powder is not very hygroscopic at all, but the fouling surely is.

 

[Stone]

Anyone ever heard of this?

 

[GoodRabbitPilgrim]

Dumb? Nice!

Welcome to the forum!

 

[pilot]

Anyone ever heard of this?

View attachment 112522

It most likely contains snake oil.

The thing about dessicant packs is that they don't absorb moisture forever, they become saturated. If you don't keep them in an air tight container, they are worthless. Once saturated, they need dried out before sealing them. That entails baking them at 200°+. Way more trouble than they are worth. Just go with best practices like those given you above.

 

[johnfrommd]

Not unless it interferes with measuring out the powder too load…

If you pan area is clean and you keep your lock covered moisture should not be an issue…

View attachment 112358

This is how our forefathers did it. They didn't have desiccant and apparently didn't need it.