I would definitely be more concerned about the lock than the bore size! Some of these were just so bad they could not be made to work.I briefly had an Italian 'Kentuckian' (short) Long Rifle and that was a true 0,44" bore. Terrible lock.
Interested in a Kentuckian flintlock Jager Rifle (Italian replica ) that was marked .44 cal initially and then over stamped with a .45? Why so? Should I steer away from it?
Mine takes a 437 ball and a 15 thou patch. It is very accurate for a cheap little rifle. I did however, have the lock completely rebuilt some years ago to make it reliableInterested in a Kentuckian flintlock Jager Rifle (Italian replica ) that was marked .44 cal initially and then over stamped with a .45? Why so? Should I steer away from it?
Will check out the lock if problematic and have the bore sized with a micrometer to determine the correct ball and patch combination . The date stamp is AB which is 1976 so your advice is well taken. Thanks again.Bore size is one area that we can all benefit from using available tools to get real information from our gear. One of the best tools is a digital caliper A caliper will measure outside dimension and inside dimension. They are digital so you don't need to interpret arcane markings on the scales. You will need a supply of LR44 button batteries as these get used up fairly quickly. These Calipers (click on the highlighted color) aren't that expensive from Harbor Freight with regular sales and discount coupons. They are accurate enough to measure the bore to about a thousandth or two. Close enough to measure a round ball, bore diameter and patch thickness. Also group size on targets, barrel diameter and they are just a generally useful tool. The results are within tolerance compared to my micrometers.
Once you know the bore diameter across the lands, you can select a ball that is properly undersized to fit your bore and patch.
Should you steer away from it? In general if the bore is clean and rifling good, it will have acceptable accuracy performance on target. Those rifles were made to meet a manufacturing price point. Easy to make a good barrel. Not too hard a manufacturing problem to make a working percussion lock. More of a problem to make a reliable flintlock. Its a more difficult manufacturing process to get the lock parts properly hardened and tempered to get the lock to spark and function smoothly. They can be made to work by diligent lock tuning and polishing of mating parts. Locks built to these entry level price points gave flin tlocks a bad name in the 1970's.
Hey Ramrod I have one of these. It is accurate I use a .433 Diam. Ball with pillow ticking patch. The lock internalls is about the cheapest and cheeseast I have ever seen I had to reheat treat the tumbler. drill and tap for a new **** screw. There is no bridle on the tumbler. I installed a flash hole liners. Now with that being said with the factory stock frizzen, it is the most sparking lock I own. Especially for such a small lock.Interested in a Kentuckian flintlock Jager Rifle (Italian replica ) that was marked .44 cal initially and then over stamped with a .45? Why so? Should I steer away from it?
Hey Ramrod I have one of these. It is accurate I use a .433 Diam. Ball with pillow ticking patch. The lock internalls is about the cheapest and cheeseast I have ever seen I had to reheat treat the tumbler. drill and tap for a new **** screw. There is no bridle on the tumbler. I installed a flash hole liners. Now with that being said with the factory stock frizzen, it is the most sparking lock I own. Especially for such a small lock.
Hey Ramrod all I have shot out of mine is round ball. I have not measured the the twist rate. If I get a chance I will measure mine and get back with you. Pioneer Flinter.Thanks for the info. My Italian Jeager Kentuckian rifle is a .45 . Any idea what the twist is in yours? I am told that 1in 48 and 1 in 66 is common. I hope to be able to shoot patch and ball and the minie as well through it.
Thanks for that. Would it take a .45 bullet ...,
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