Kibler colonial question

[slaptrigger]

Those of you that have a Kibler colonial, what is the measurement across the flat area at the bottom of the butt stock? I ordered a colonial in 58 caliber and I’m thinking about putting a toe plate on it. I was looking for a rough measurement to get a piece of sheet brass so I’d have it when my kit arrives. I know several guys have the colonial on here. I can’t wait to get it and get it together to start shooting!!

 

[EC121]

1-3/16" give or take a little.

 

[slaptrigger]

1-3/16" give or take a little.

Thank you!!!

 

[slaptrigger]

For those of you that have put together the colonial, approximately how long did it take? Obviously everyone has different experience levels but just as a general idea.

 

[sportster73hp]

I took three days. I wanted to shoot it. Now i look at it and will eventually work on the brass to refine and polish it better

 

[len]

My first kit, I took my time watching Jim's build videos, took me a month.

 

[slaptrigger]

What kind of stain/finish did you guys use ? And do you have pictures? I’m not sure what finish I’m going to use. I have a gorgeous maple stock.

 

[len]

Mine is iron nitrate and permalyn, did not really like the permalyn, going to try the Jim Chambers oil on the next build.

 

[Nazgul58]

Mine is on the way according to the Post Office. Colonial in 58.

Don

 

[Nazgul58]

Len, that is the metal finish I want to do on mine. Is it from Jim's video?

Don

 

[slaptrigger]

Mine is iron nitrate and permalyn, did not really like the permalyn, going to try the Jim Chambers oil on the next build.

Why didn’t you like the pemalyn? Just curious.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Chamber’s oil is by far the easiest, mos foolproof finish you can use.
I use it exclusively. 3 or 4 coats applied and wiped off, 2 coats of spar varnish for resistance to the elements, and 2 more coats of Chamber’s oil, gives a semi gloss sheen that looks like 20 hand rubbed coats, and is durable as can be. Easy peasy.

 

[len]

Why didn’t you like the pemalyn? Just curious.

I kept adding coats and it would not fill areas of the grain.

 

[len]

Len, that is the metal finish I want to do on mine. Is it from Jim's video?

Don

I used Oxpho blue on the barrel and lock, 44-40 cold blue on the brass then rubbed back with 0000 steel wool and wd-40 after.

 

[slaptrigger]

Chamber’s oil is by far the easiest, mos foolproof finish you can use.
I use it exclusively. 3 or 4 coats applied and wiped off, 2 coats of spar varnish for resistance to the elements, and 2 more coats of Chamber’s oil, gives a semi gloss sheen that looks like 20 hand rubbed coats, and is durable as can be. Easy peasy.

I like the sound of that. I’ll be looking into some chambers oil for sure. Thanks for the advice!!

 

[sportster73hp]

I used Kibler’s iron nitrate and many coats of tung oil. Left the barrel “in the white”. I have a pistol I did this way and like the look but it took years for the present finished. Just wipe the barrel down with oil after each use

 

[Zonie]

I kept adding coats and it would not fill areas of the grain.

If your gunstock is an open grain wood and you want to fill the grain, do the first few coats of oil using 220 grit sandpaper to apply it. Sand the surface using the oil as a lubricant.
This will sand off very little wood but the wood that is removed will mix with the oil and fill the open grain. After getting the entire stock covered with oil, let it dry. Then, if there are still areas where the grain needs more filling, repeat the oil/sandpaper application again.
After allowing this to dry, do the rest of the oiling, using a small rag to rub the oil in and smooth the surface.

 

[Siringo]

I used Iron Nitrate as the stain. For a finish I used Tried and Tru oil. However, the oil is best used when the stock can be exposed to direct sunlight. 5 hours of sunlight is equivalent to 5 days without it - as far as drying goes. The kit can be assembled in a day, but it took me a month to get the stock finished. I have used Permalyn SEALER with success too. It is a tough finish and good on a hunting gun. Note I said sealer. The regular finish I did not like.

 

[Art Caputo]

I used Jim’s Aquafortis and Tannic Acid. The rubbing process using maroon ScotchBrite with TOTW Original Oil(linseed oil+pine distillate driers) did a nice job of filling in the grain. Another dozen coats of the same resulted in a hard, durable finish that brings out the figure which can be controlled for the desired level of luster.

 

[oreclan]

I