Hatchet-Jack
54 Cal.
Oh yea no just zip ties!Had me going for a minute. I thought Kibler went to barrel bands. (tape)
Oh yea no just zip ties!Had me going for a minute. I thought Kibler went to barrel bands. (tape)
Yea that Butt plate is a pain in the "butt" pun intended! I used inletting black and incrementally moved it in to get mine to marry up nicely.Very nice. On my Kibler southern mountain rifle, the only real PITA was the butt plate. Took me forever to fit it, and I'm still not completely satisfied with the job I did..
Question: has Jim added a toe plate to the kit, or is that something you ordered extra? I've seriously considered adding one to my gun.... I've seen some being sold here and there online that would work, and they don't cost that much.
I know you are going to love it...Boy she sparks good!
View attachment 67873
Thanks. You are right and that is a mistake I realized as I went along. If I need to fill a hole in a tab so I can re-drill it what's a good method? I don't think I'll need to do that in this case as I have adjusted the metal to correct level, but I'd like to know how to all the same.Hatchet...one comment....you may want to get all the machining marks off the bottom of the buttstock before you go much further on inletting the trigger guard and the toe plate. Those are fairly deep grooves and taking those down to a smooth finish is going to change the relationship to the metal around it if the metal is all inlet first. It looks like you have already pinned the trigger guard, so if it changes that too much you may have to fill the hole in the guard's tab you pin through then re-drill. I would also get the metal parts nearly finished with filing and sanding, then inlet. Doing so after can change the outside configuration and suddenly you can see a gap to your inletting.
Resistance is futile...Those Kibler guns are hard to resist.
Weird... mine didn't have those machining marks on the bottom.Hatchet...one comment....you may want to get all the machining marks off the bottom of the buttstock before you go much further on inletting the trigger guard and the toe plate. Those are fairly deep grooves and taking those down to a smooth finish is going to change the relationship to the metal around it if the metal is all inlet first. It looks like you have already pinned the trigger guard, so if it changes that too much you may have to fill the hole in the guard's tab you pin through then re-drill. I would also get the metal parts nearly finished with filing and sanding, then inlet. Doing so after can change the outside configuration and suddenly you can see a gap to your inletting.
Mine did...big time. At first glance they didn't seem that deep, but it took a fair amount of sanding to get rid of them. Enough that it pretty much eliminated the "pre-inlet" for the back of the trigger guard.Weird... mine didn't have those machining marks on the bottom.
If I was in that situation, I'd use a mig welder to spot the hole.Thanks. You are right and that is a mistake I realized as I went along. If I need to fill a hole in a tab so I can re-drill it what's a good method? I don't think I'll need to do that in this case as I have adjusted the metal to correct level, but I'd like to know how to all the same.
I had to remove just a tiny bit of wood at the top with a chisel and a few high spots where it curves with a rasp. No metal had to be removed.If I was in that situation, I'd use a mig welder to spot the hole.
Jack...in order to fit your buttplate, did you have to remove wood, or just file metal?
The reason I asked, is in the videos Jim only removed metal to fit the plate, other than at the top front where he took a tiny sliver of wood.I had to remove just a tiny bit of wood at the top with a chisel and a few high spots where it curves with a rasp. No metal had to be removed.
I was wrong. I just watched the video again, and he indeed used a file on the wood.The reason I asked, is in the videos Jim only removed metal to fit the plate, other than at the top front where he took a tiny sliver of wood.
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