Kibler Southern Mountain rifle kit and supplies arrived. It's going to be a fun build.

[Hatchet-Jack]

Finished the front sight and worked on the stock today.

 

[appalichian hunter]

Getting there Jack, that's going to be a fine rifle.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Getting there Jack, that's going to be a fine rifle.

Thanks! I hope to have it ready to shoot at Friendship in 2 weeks.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Sanding and de-whiskering.

 

[painter]

Looking great, Jack!

Question about the draw filing. Did you file all the surfaces, or did you leave the ones not seen raw? If you filed all surfaces, did it affect the barrel fit in the stock?

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Looking great, Jack!

Question about the draw filing. Did you file all the surfaces, or did you leave the ones not seen raw? If you filed all surfaces, did it affect the barrel fit in the stock?

I lightly draw filed the bottom flats which isn't necessary at all but I wanted to test and practice a bit before I did the flats that show. I draw filed the sides and the top. It did loosen up the fit very slightly but not enough to cause any gaps.

 

[painter]

Thanks!

 

[ord sgt]

Wrap some 400 grit paper around the file. It will help smooth out any deep scratches in the metal. It will help with whichever type finish, either brown or blue, that you choose.

 

[Flintandsteel]

No need to go beyond 220 grit. Too smooth, and you’ll have trouble with metal finishes. The only reason to go finer is with a shiny blue.

 

[Spikebuck]

I draw file with a fine mill file and don't need to sand at all. I never stroke on the same "space" on the file twice, moving the file over after each stroke until I've gone the length of the file. Then the shavings are cleaned off and I start again. This keeps gouges or scratches from occurring.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Trying out some different finishes. Playing around with Tannic Acid, Iron Nitrate Tried and True oil with some LMF Maple.

 

[appalichian hunter]

I like the one too the right of the star, more reddish and seems to make the grain stand out a bit better.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

I like the one too the right of the star, more reddish and seems to make the grain stand out a bit better.

That's the one I'm leaning towards. I added some of that LMF maple to the Oil Varnish. It adds that nice warm tone.

 

[Jensen]

I like the one to the right of the star as well. That grain is going to look fantastic when it is all done.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

I added some detail to the Cheekpiece.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

I went with two coats of Tannic Acid, one coat of Iron Nitrate, blushed it to bring out the warm tones. Then I used maroon Scotchbrite rubbed a coat of Tried & True oil varnish and Turpentine 50/50, let it soak in then rubbed it back. I had some areas that looked green so I blushed those areas with the heat gun again which worked very well. I'll add several layers of T&T oil (no turp added) and maybe some LMF Maple to add some red/orange hues. Lastly I'll use some of Kibler's Bone Black to add some aged look to it.

 

[appalichian hunter]

Yey baby thats looks nice.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Yey baby thats looks nice.

Thanks! It's getting there.

 

[Big Bubba]

I've been using Chambers Stock Finish on mine. The colors seem to stand and more with each coat of oil you put on. Did not need to add any LMF to mine. I used two coats of iron nitrate with trans-tint amber in between.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

I've been using Chambers Stock Finish on mine. The colors seem to stand and more with each coat of oil you put on. Did not need to add any LMF to mine. I used two coats of iron nitrate with trans-tint amber in between.

I've been using Chambers Stock Finish on mine. The colors seem to stand and more with each coat of oil you put on. Did not need to add any LMF to mine. I used two coats of iron nitrate with trans-tint amber in between.

Like to see it. Do you have some pics on another post?