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Lack of cylinder safety pins

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Its like an original! Unless you plan on carrying it, I wouldn't worry too much. go to the range, load 6 and bang away. IF you do want to carry it or hunt with it, then the safest thing is to load 5-you don't need the 6th unless you're in Indian territory. Most of the original colts I have handled are missing pins. They wear down and some appear to have just fallen out. But my guess is once they wore out, they still loaded 6-especially if you were somewhere where you really needed it. Id never do that on a repro unless it had the one critical missing thing-heavy mainsprings. Original hammer springs are A LOT heavier than repros. This made ignition more reliable but it also made them safer to carry in that the hammer was more snug and was a lot harder to jar or move. So if you set the hammer on a cap it would really take some force to move the hammer and set it off(unless it was dropped) ; the only issue would be getting that extremely heavy hammer gently onto that cap, which is where letting it down on the pins is definitely safer and one reason why I think the pins on originals are all wore and peened down. Combine that with a proper holster and they would have been pretty safe to carry pins or not. A lot of people used slim jim style holsters and other open holsters, but a lot of people used flap holsters too. You see pictures of guys in town with the flaps folded back. These offered protection against the elements and so long as the flap was closed it made them very secure and would have protected the hammer.
 
Its like an original! Unless you plan on carrying it, I wouldn't worry too much. go to the range, load 6 and bang away. IF you do want to carry it or hunt with it, then the safest thing is to load 5-you don't need the 6th unless you're in Indian territory. Most of the original colts I have handled are missing pins. They wear down and some appear to have just fallen out. But my guess is once they wore out, they still loaded 6-especially if you were somewhere where you really needed it. Id never do that on a repro unless it had the one critical missing thing-heavy mainsprings. Original hammer springs are A LOT heavier than repros. This made ignition more reliable but it also made them safer to carry in that the hammer was more snug and was a lot harder to jar or move. So if you set the hammer on a cap it would really take some force to move the hammer and set it off(unless it was dropped) ; the only issue would be getting that extremely heavy hammer gently onto that cap, which is where letting it down on the pins is definitely safer and one reason why I think the pins on originals are all wore and peened down. Combine that with a proper holster and they would have been pretty safe to carry pins or not. A lot of people used slim jim style holsters and other open holsters, but a lot of people used flap holsters too. You see pictures of guys in town with the flaps folded back. These offered protection against the elements and so long as the flap was closed it made them very secure and would have protected the hammer.
very simple to have a holster with a leather strap between the hammer and frame holding the hammer away from the round. I had a holster like that for a 1911 and SA pistols
 
Any rational calculation of a risk involves two factors, likelihood & gravity:
  1. The likelihood of a mishap occurring;
  2. The gravity of the harm should a mishap occur.
The likelihood here may be low but the consequences potentially catastrophic.

That’s why I’m sticking with the hammer down on an empty chamber unless I’ll empty out the gun immediately.

I don’t rely on Colt safety pins or Remington notches. A kneecap is a terrible thing to waste.
 
S&W revolvers have a pinned firing pin and a transfer bar to block the hammer
S&W revolvers have an internal hammer block which is the rebound trigger slide and makes the transfer hammer bar redundant and unnecessary. Iver Johnson may be the first using the hammer block safety. When the Iver Johnson system was first marketed it was advertised as a safety feature called the "hammer the hammer" safety. A S&W works much the same. A diagram sketch in the Iver Johnson add showed a common work hammer striking the guns hammer. The transfer hammer bar was not present in S&W revolvers until after 1943. Most of the shooters doing fast action shooting remove the bar as it slightly hinders the speed of repeated fire and really adds nothing to safety. The transfer hammer bar in a S&W has a base that has a slot in it to ride over a pin in the rebound slide. If the inner walls in this slot are not polished really well, you can feel the drag. It is perfectly safe to remove the transfer hammer bar in a S&W revolver. You will have a noticeably smoother action.
 
Well the Old ADAGE seems to apply
A Ounce of Preventation is worth a Pound of Cure

IMO, life is full of risks, no sense asking for more

As the Old Gunny said to the private on Gudalcanal who was up in a tree watching the Jap destroyer sehell the beach, sure the shell may land on you, but you don't have to try and catch it
 
I used to shoot SASS in my younger days, both BP and Cartridge. I heard or read about an old gunfighter ( can't remember who) who advocated hammer down on an empty chamber. He would say " If you're expecting a gunfight load six." When asked what to do when facing more than one opponent he said " Bring more guns". Also it was said that individuals would keep money rolled up in that empty cylinder. Some say it was burial money other for bail.
 
Here are Colt's instructions from the era - note what it says "to carry the arm safely........" you tough guys go right ahead, carry these, carry 1873s, etc. with the hammer down on a live round. Throw them in your car, in and out of the holster, take them anywhere and everywhere, don't have to worry about a thing. Guns ended up with transfer bar safetys for a reason.
My Uberti 1860, has safety notches between chambers, so hammer is not resting on a loaded chamber. Safe to carry 6 loaded. Back in the day, when I carried a .36 cal. Navy and other .44s, would rest hammer between loaded chambers even though there were no safety notches on cylinder. Have mentioned in this forum that 'way-back-when' knew an old timer that grew up with C&B revolvers. Learned a trick or two from him. Even learned how to avoid ring fires. All the years (50 something) I've used C&B never ever had one. Probably way past due, OH WELL!
 
Also it was said that individuals would keep money rolled up in that empty cylinder. Some say it was burial money other for bail.

The only problem with that is the bills would be ash after the first cylinder full ( probably the first or second chamber). I think Hollywood dreamed that one up.

Mike
 
If yer that darn worried about it. These are guys the machine shields and stop pins into a cylinder.
Just have a machinist drill and install some.
If it were, Id not even worry about it. Id leave set between two cylinders and call it good.
Oh yeah something we learned as kids. Dont drop your firearm.
 
The only problem with that is the bills would be ash after the first cylinder full ( probably the first or second chamber). I think Hollywood dreamed that one up.

Mike
Probably so. Come to think of it, the load six statement may have come from John Wayne in the Shootist. LOL 😆
 
The only problem with that is the bills would be ash after the first cylinder full ( probably the first or second chamber). I think Hollywood dreamed that one up.

Mike
that was another idiotic story that belongs in a laundromat like most war stories
 
I had a holster for a 1911 and another for SA pistols where a leather strap went between the hammer and frame and had a snap to secure it. totally safe easy fix if you want to carry 6 rds
 
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