Large Siler Lock Jaws to Frizzen Alignment

[Fishslap]

Does this look right to you guys? It seems like the center line of the jaws is not square with the frizzen. The flint is kind of lopsided in the jaws. Jim Chambers large siler lock. New TOW 7/8” x 3/4” flint with slight spacing to the frizzen and square to the frizzen at half ****. I could probably move it towards the barrel just a hair, but it looked right on at half ****.

It’s probably more of an issue visually than functionality as it seems like there’s enough grip on it. Builder said “we don’t make the locks”. I have an email and phone call in to the lock manufacturer but I think they’re busy moving shop.

 

[EC121]

Does it spark well? Don't worry about it. It is an imperfect world. The castings are made from waxes. Sometimes the waxes get a twist and other times a twisted hammer gets used to make the molds. It doesn't look that bad. Look at the gap between the hammer and the plate to see it if the bottom of the hammer is square with the plate. It might be off a little on the tumbler shaft. If it bothers you, you could heat the neck up and twist it to suit you.
It looks like the builder didn't polish the lock. Is this a TVM rifle?

 

[2 shots]

It looks like the builder didn't polish the lock. Is this a TVM rifle?

or the barrel.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Typical of a lock that was put together with the least amount of work. Note the parting lines of the mold and as cast surfaces. If it sparks and throws to the pan then it has met the assemblers goal, a lock that has twisted parts can still work well enough. It takes more time (money) to build a lock that has the details dealt with.

 

[EC121]

Jim’s assemblers get about $40 or so per lock to assemble the castings. Most of that time is spent on truing up the castings and fitting the internal parts.
A perfect lock might be available, but not for any reasonable amount of money. Once I ordered a $400 lock and cancelled my order after seeing my friend’s lock from the same place. To be aligned with the frizzen his flint hung out about 1/4”. The hammer on it made yours look straight.

 

[rafterob]

Had a small Siler with the same issue. Bent the hammer slightly to get it a little closer. But my flint still sits off to the side in the jaws. Sparks and sets off the charge so I'm ok with that.

 

[Nav]

I would just stone it a bit till I saw daylight.

 

[flconch53]

It would work as long as the jaw doesn't hit the barrel. If it was mine I would try to bend into a better alignment. That one would need some TLC

 

[Fishslap]

or the barrel.

Brought that up to TVM when I sent it back the first time to rebuild it due to other issues. They said that’s the historically correct finish.

 

[Fishslap]

Does it spark well? Don't worry about it. It is an imperfect world. The castings are made from waxes. Sometimes the waxes get a twist and other times a twisted hammer gets used to make the molds. It doesn't look that bad. Look at the gap between the hammer and the plate to see it if the bottom of the hammer is square with the plate. It might be off a little on the tumbler shaft. If it bothers you, you could heat the neck up and twist it to suit you.
It looks like the builder didn't polish the lock. Is this a TVM rifle?

Thanks. Yes, a TVM already sent back once for a “rebuild”. They didn’t even test the lock after the build because the flint was too small to release the frizzen and it smacked the barrel when I tried without careful inspection first. Seems to spark fine with the correct flint but I need to give it a closer look.

 

[EC121]

TVM is a semi-production operation. They build them as fast as possible. No profit in working slow. HC or not a rougher finish is a fast way to finish a barrel. Probably used a belt sander.

 

[flconch53]

That's what the barrel looks like when you get one. They didn't do anything

 

[James Kibler]

If it isn't aligned well, take the **** off, clamp it in a vise with brass jaws and hit the top with a hammer and piece of wood or a preferably a lead hammer. It really doesn't take much to adjust things. Easy peasy. Also keep in mind that the **** jaws on originals weren't typically aligned with the barrel. That is, they might point out slightly so the flint aligns better with the frizzen. The thought of this throws some into a tizzy, but it really is no problem.

Jim

 

[flconch53]

It really won't take much movement to bring it in.

 

[Fishslap]

That's what the barrel looks like when you get one. They didn't do anything

Here’s what the muzzle looked like.

 

[oldwood]

Don't think I remember any scratch built gun , that didn't need parts "tuning". Is what it is. Simple fit and finish. Git-er-done !

 

[Mike in FL]

That would bug me into being unstable. Functions well or not, just the idea of such a visible effect on an expensive rifle wu not let be rest until fixed. As always, that's just me.

 

[EC121]

When you buy a semi-production rifle, you get semi-production workmanship. They grab a part and stick it in the wood, and out the door it goes. That is why I don't order rifles anymore. I shop around to be able to look at them first. Also I am too old to wait for the rifle to be built. .

 

[flconch53]

When you buy a semi-production rifle, you get semi-production workmanship. They grab a part and stick it in the wood, and out the door it goes. That is why I don't order rifles anymore. I shop around to be able to look at them first. Also I am too old to wait for the rifle to be built. .

Besides it can be fun to look at them

 

[James Kibler]

Bigger than the poor muzzle finish is the big gap between the ramrod and the stock (bad design, not traditional), the poor muzzle cap fit on the barrel and the fact that the wood doesn't follow the contour of the muzzle cap and they aren't fully flush.