Large Siler Lock Jaws to Frizzen Alignment

[rich pierce]

It’s a “let’s trash this guy’s gun” melee. I know a lefty who outshoots most strong competitive shooters using TVM guns. They make him some long pull lefty flintlocks and he makes them look great with his shooting.

We don’t all look for the same things in a flintlock rifle.

 

[Fishslap]

It’s a “let’s trash this guy’s gun” melee. I know a lefty who outshoots most strong competitive shooters using TVM guns. They make him some long pull lefty flintlocks and he makes them look great with his shooting.

We don’t all look for the same things in a flintlock rifle.

I appreciate that. I knew what I was potentially getting into before I ordered it. It actually looks pretty good to the untrained eye and when not scrutinizing details. Another forum member gave the gun a similar critique (via PM) as others on here and I had TVM fix the stuff that looked fixable and bothered me most (they said they were just going to “rebuild” the already new gun). The last concern on the “rebuild” was the **** alignment to the frizzen which I’m going to fix myself after I do some shooting.

I shouldn’t say this on here but I shoot to hunt. I don’t shoot to shoot or to collect guns. If it shoots well, I’ll take it. I’ve put down about 2,000 lb of critter with my GPR and was looking for my next step in muzzleloader hunting.

 

[Fishslap]

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the input. I’ve been working 12 hour days so not much time to reply. Hopefully I can get to the range in the next few weeks.

 

[oldwood]

Back to straightening a cast steel flint hammer. I am not a believer of bashing stuff w/hammers , and or using heat which can ruined the tensile structure of cast metal. I break more stuff w/hammers than I fix. (laughing)....I've had huge success tweeking flint and percussion hammers w/wrenches. 1. Remove flint hammer from lock. 2.Put the two flat sides in a good vise w/ brass sheet metal padded jaws. Put the vise jaws lower than where the bend adjustment will be allowing for a long bend adjustment rather than a short adjustment area. Those short bends can break off. 3. Use a foot long Crescent with it's jaws on the flint jaw area , and gently tweek the stem of the hammer , allowing for a tiny amt. of rebound in the bend. If it's not enough , give the twist a tiny bit more. .....I've fixed several misdirected hammers this way , w/o breaking any. ......No offense meant to those that like to use other methods.

 

[James Kibler]

Having straightened thousands of cast cocks, I can say that a lead hammer works well. I also wouldn't be afraid of heating in the slightest. This isn't necessary though. As to a crescent wrench, it can work fine too. The only downside is that you might tend to mar the part a bit more.